Speaker question and crossovers
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Speaker question and crossovers
Just curious, with the dash and rear separate component speakers, the factory setup does no run a cross over between the 4" speaker and the tweeter.
When replacing these with other speakers, I am in two minds, just replace the 4" woofer with a CDT or Focal unit, on the premise the factor tweeter will be sufficient, now if I do that, I dont need to run a different cross over Im assuming. If I replace both speakers with a woofer and tweeter set that comes with a cross over, will I then need to run the cross over? Or can I just install them as is? Im not exactly sure where the filtering happens!
When replacing these with other speakers, I am in two minds, just replace the 4" woofer with a CDT or Focal unit, on the premise the factor tweeter will be sufficient, now if I do that, I dont need to run a different cross over Im assuming. If I replace both speakers with a woofer and tweeter set that comes with a cross over, will I then need to run the cross over? Or can I just install them as is? Im not exactly sure where the filtering happens!
#4
Race Director
Thread Starter
Yes the amp will be able to determine the frequency range to the speakers, but that will mean the tweeter will have the same pass wont it, unless there is a filter between the woofer and tweeter? How does this work on the factory speakers given there doesnt seem to be a crossover?
I guess what you are saying is, I can just install the speakers without the cross over and use the amp to moderate frequency to the woofer and the tweeter will just do what it can do...
I guess what you are saying is, I can just install the speakers without the cross over and use the amp to moderate frequency to the woofer and the tweeter will just do what it can do...
#5
The dash are mid and tweeter, not full range
The doors are woofers, not full range.
I understand that the dash you can drive full range without ill effect (with either replacement components that wil be full range, or the factory which isn't). The doors on the other hand, either factory or aftermarket should be just woofer frequencies or they don't sound good due to being over driven.
That help at all?
The doors are woofers, not full range.
I understand that the dash you can drive full range without ill effect (with either replacement components that wil be full range, or the factory which isn't). The doors on the other hand, either factory or aftermarket should be just woofer frequencies or they don't sound good due to being over driven.
That help at all?
Last edited by David Clarke; 05-05-2012 at 07:11 PM. Reason: Ipad + bed = interesting spelling
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
Ah ok, I have just install Focal 5WS wooders in the doors, they sound terrible because they are not getting enough power.
Ill get some Focal 100's for the dash and install them without crossovers and grab an Alpine PDX amp in 5 channel, that should do the trick. My plan was to drive the doors with the sub output on the amp.
Ill get some Focal 100's for the dash and install them without crossovers and grab an Alpine PDX amp in 5 channel, that should do the trick. My plan was to drive the doors with the sub output on the amp.
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#9
The factory wiring can be re-used, or run separate wires. The Resistor comment is very dependent on which sound system you started out with (I think). I really only know about the nightmare that is Bose/MOST.
I am getting the Alpine as well (my install is waiting till mid July for my head unit to be manufactured - its not out yet), but have all the other bits I am starting with here - the shopping list is quite long on little odd bits due to MOST and having to replace fiber optic with copper and my desire to leave it looking factory quality. My first attempt will be to use the filters in the PDX to do the crossover thing to all the Bose speakers, and use the amp channel in the head unit to power the rear seat speakers.
I have 7 channels to power inc the factory SUB that will need to be rewired as a single channel and in series to give me a higher resistance.
I am getting the Alpine as well (my install is waiting till mid July for my head unit to be manufactured - its not out yet), but have all the other bits I am starting with here - the shopping list is quite long on little odd bits due to MOST and having to replace fiber optic with copper and my desire to leave it looking factory quality. My first attempt will be to use the filters in the PDX to do the crossover thing to all the Bose speakers, and use the amp channel in the head unit to power the rear seat speakers.
I have 7 channels to power inc the factory SUB that will need to be rewired as a single channel and in series to give me a higher resistance.
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
Ah yup, thats good news! I think I might just buy a mid bass woofer for the fronts, a CDT speaker and leave the factory wiring and factory tweeter. Assuming that wont cause any issues?
#14
Drifting
The resistors are soldered into the wires from the mids to the tweeters. In my car I ran new leads for the dash speakers from the crossovers to the dash, so two sets of wires for each speaker location. I used Focal 100KP in the dash. For the rears I used the stock wiring and located the crossovers behind the speakers/panel, using a set of Focal 100 slimlines as I remember. I used the 5ws in the doors with the stock wiring. I used a JL Audio 6450 amp, 6 channel, so channels 1&2 for the dash, 2&4 for the rears and 5&6 blended for the doors. I still have the CDR200 and CD in the trunk. The system sounds great, not as much base as you would get with larger sub but I was not interested in shaking the whole car.
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
Ok, on that basis, I should be able to just replace the woofer with a CDT unit and leave the tweeter and wiring in place... Ill try that and see how I go!