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It's been years, so I'm not entirely sure. If I recall, there is a shear pin or shaft between the drive motor and the black plastic rack-and-pinon box. Maybe that's broken from the manual operation procedure? Post up some pictures and maybe I'll see something.
What year is your car? I have my clam shell drive off as well, but it looks different. I have a '99. Mine is blue, and the only parts associated with the square pinion shaft besides the plastic "gear" on the shaft is a spring and c-clip. My latest problem is my top goes up and down using the dash switch, but the clamshell doesn't move - the car will try to lower the top with the clamshell closed. The micro-switch on the clamshell cable box is working (I get a fault code that the clamshell is open when the clamshell is open and I try to calibrate the top).
I too have thought of just going manual. It looks like the clamshell could be made to open and close riding on its hinges, and I'd make a push-pull handle for the rear closing hook. If that isn't sufficient to hold the clamshell down, I think a couple rubber hood latches could be used for the front corners. I haven't looked closely, but I wonder if the manual closing latch used on the hardtop could be used on the header, or maybe a Boxter latch? I'd just not use the little winglets. In fact, I've thought of ditching the roll-over system, put in a real roll bar, and re-carpet the back for more storage room. Yes a bit more hassle to raise and lower the top, but I have a Jeep Wrangler, so this would still be a lot easier than the Jeep!
I'm having a similar problem. I hear the motor for the clamshell, but the clamshell doesn't move. I can also move the clamshell manually. I am going to check if the gears might be stripped in the motor.
I got the gearwheel in the motor with brutal power, but iam unsure if the manual unlocking now works, before i put it back in?
Were you able to solve this?
I manually closed the clam shell using the tool behind the back seats after my hydraulics cylinders failed mid-operation. I have ordered a repair kit from Porsche (99656167301), any pointers with installation?
For future reference, here is what the inside of the rack and pinion drive for the clamshell looks like.
Update 5/14/2012:
Just an update to document the resolution of this problem... I tried to repair the broken cable but was unsuccessful. I ended up purchasing an entire drive assembly. I found one used, so that saved me quite a bit of money. The drive assembly (996.561.012.03) lists for $778, retails for $563 from Sunset, but I found it used for $325.
After installing the new drive system, I found that the bracket which pushes the clamshell hinge arm was misaligned with the slider pin. (see bracket picture)
Some fiddling with alignment, a small amount of bending and grinding, I corrected the alignment and got things working again. I'm not sure what was the root cause of this cascade of failures, but I'm sure they were all related.
Broken hinge arm
Debris in the sliding mechanism
Misaligned drive bracket
Damaged drive cable (bowden cable)
Perhaps I'll write up a "troubleshooting guide" for clamshell drive issues, since I've had the thing apart and back together 10 times
Oh, and I have a partial working drive system for sale. All components are good except the left side drive cable. If your's has other issues, PM me.
I have the same problem, the drive bracket is not align properly so too much force caused the wire to break. Got a new assembly for $800 (ugh).
How did you align it? Did you actually modify the bracket?
I have the same problem, the drive bracket is not align properly so too much force caused the wire to break. Got a new assembly for $800 (ugh).
How did you align it? Did you actually modify the bracket?
Two key things:
1. Make sure the slider mechanisms (on the end of the cables, at the back corners of the car) are clean, free of any debris inside, and well lubricated.
2. I had to bend and grind the bracket slightly to get it to align. I assume it got damaged from the initial issue, so I was just putting it back to normal.
Sorry I don't recall the details (this was 10 years ago!), but basically do what you need to get the bracket aligned like the photo. Mine is still working great 10 years later.
Frisbee91, I seem ever destined to follow you a decade behind. The Frisbee Fix on the canopy rear window has been awesome, however, today when I tried to take advantage of some rare California winter sun, the clamshell hinge arm snapped. Some fairly loud clunks as I tried to fully open and fully close the roof without success until I found the broken hinge.
In hindsight, was the clamshell mechanism disassembly, clean-up, repair, and reassembly a reasonably simple/fast job (despite your many iterations)? Or is this one best left to the indy mechanic?
Getting the mechanism out isn't really too difficult. There are some hard-to-see nuts that hold the hinge arm under the clamshell (10mm socket driver did the trick, If I recall.) Depending on the damage, you might need to buy a new bowden cable assembly, which was pricey. If it's not damaged, maybe just clean it all up. Getting everything lined up and installed was the tricky part, but if you are a confident amateur wrencher, you can handle it.
Good luck.
BTW, I did eventually replace my entire canvas top after my plastic window cracked. I went with the glass window. I got 10 years out of the repair sewing repair, though.
Getting the mechanism out isn't really too difficult. There are some hard-to-see nuts that hold the hinge arm under the clamshell (10mm socket driver did the trick, If I recall.) Depending on the damage, you might need to buy a new bowden cable assembly, which was pricey. If it's not damaged, maybe just clean it all up. Getting everything lined up and installed was the tricky part, but if you are a confident amateur wrencher, you can handle it.
Good luck.
BTW, I did eventually replace my entire canvas top after my plastic window cracked. I went with the glass window. I got 10 years out of the repair sewing repair, though.
Thanks Frisbee91. I'm polishing my plastic window with plexus every few weeks, it seems to be keeping it all flexible, even in the cold... will see.
I certainly prefer the field of view of the vinyl windows over those little glass numbers!
Interestingly (to me ) my canopy hinge failure seems to correlate with the untimely death of my battery last week. I've been having difficulty starting the car over the past month. Now with the new battery, I can see that the engine was being cranked quite slowly.
Extrapolating that symptom... while I always have the engine running when deploying the canopy, the weak battery may not have been delivering the amps needed to operate the top correctly.
I haven't tackled the hinge replacement yet (waiting for it to stop raining in SOCAL). but the new battery resolved all sorts of gremlins... so I thought I'd open the roof. Lo and behold, it worked liked greased lightning, despite the broken hinge. I also toped off the hydraulic fluid (which was quite low), lubricated the clamshell tracks and this thing is running on rails.
While I'm sure there are many possible causes of the broken hinge, I wonder if a low voltage in a failing battery is not a prime cause... failing to unlock the clamshell fully which then continues on its merry way up, snapping the hinge arm. I know from my experience, the broken hinge then wreaks havoc depending on what it fouls as the clamshell closes while you try to work out what is going wrong with the roof. I imagine, that if it fouled on the way down, preventing the clamshell from closing, the clamshell actuator could cause the sort of damage you witnessed on your sliders (that force has to go somewhere as it seeks the next point of failure). Certainly there is a good chance of the broken arm crushing the cable when the clamshell closes.
Do you recall a decade ago if you had to change your battery around the same time, or if you were low on charge when the incident first occurred?
Its just a hunch. The mechanism seems pretty well engineered, but it will likely draw more power to overcome wear and lubrication issues as it gets older. Much of the catastrophic failure seems to stem from the clamshell lock not disengaging fully when opening.
I have had quite the saga with this top over the past two months. It’s been back-and-forth to the dealer like six times replaced a bunch of stuff. Including the drive motor. I’m done with the dealership, they can’t fix it after many tries and scratched my car badly enough they had to do painting. Now it’s broken again.
This time seems a bit different though the latch won’t open on the passenger side , Previously would get the warning that the top was not in closed position. The dealership kept throwing parts at it. Perhaps this latch was not closing before but now it won’t open.
I know this function is part of the electrical motor not the hydraulic top motor. Any tips on how to get this to unlatch so I can even get in there to take a look?
. Is there a manual way to open this so that I can get to it to work on it?
car is a 997.2 2009
(I know I’m in the 996 group but the mechanics are similar and this seems like a knowledgeable group)
Last edited by ExileOnMainSt; 07-30-2023 at 11:52 AM.
05-13-2020, 05:02 PM
) my canopy hinge failure seems to correlate with the untimely death of my battery last week. I've been having difficulty starting the car over the past month. Now with the new battery, I can see that the engine was being cranked quite slowly.
