Clank noise from Crank pulley & Lights flicker (video) Help!
02-22-2012, 06:36 PM
#16
Race Director
The noise doesn't sound good.
You have to decide how much self-diagnosis you want to engage in.
If something internal in the engine is acting up... you may want to think about avoiding running the engine anymore and instead let a pro diagnosis and advise you.
In the last video clip I thought I spotted a shiny area on the edge of the crankshaft belt pulley. The picture wasn't steady/stable enough to be sure. Have you looked (it is hard but it must be done) to see if something may have dropped down (or a bracket or something else is loose) and is rubbing against the crankshaft pulley?
Have you checked for any play/looseness at the crankshaft pulley?
Sincerely,
Macster.
You have to decide how much self-diagnosis you want to engage in.
If something internal in the engine is acting up... you may want to think about avoiding running the engine anymore and instead let a pro diagnosis and advise you.
In the last video clip I thought I spotted a shiny area on the edge of the crankshaft belt pulley. The picture wasn't steady/stable enough to be sure. Have you looked (it is hard but it must be done) to see if something may have dropped down (or a bracket or something else is loose) and is rubbing against the crankshaft pulley?
Have you checked for any play/looseness at the crankshaft pulley?
Sincerely,
Macster.
02-22-2012, 06:38 PM
#17
No stethoscope. I tried to pinpoint the location with a long screw driver. No luck. You can actually hear the sound pretty well on first video without the serpentine belt installed. I touched the crank pulley while it was running and I didn't notice any significant amount of wobble. Would a chain tensioner make a noise in the front of the engine? My plan was to replace all three tensioners this Spring as well as the cam guides.
Lets not forget about the flickering lights too!!
Lets not forget about the flickering lights too!!
02-22-2012, 06:44 PM
#18
The noise doesn't sound good.
You have to decide how much self-diagnosis you want to engage in.
If something internal in the engine is acting up... you may want to think about avoiding running the engine anymore and instead let a pro diagnosis and advise you.
In the last video clip I thought I spotted a shiny area on the edge of the crankshaft belt pulley. The picture wasn't steady/stable enough to be sure. Have you looked (it is hard but it must be done) to see if something may have dropped down (or a bracket or something else is loose) and is rubbing against the crankshaft pulley?
Have you checked for any play/looseness at the crankshaft pulley?
Sincerely,
Macster.
You have to decide how much self-diagnosis you want to engage in.
If something internal in the engine is acting up... you may want to think about avoiding running the engine anymore and instead let a pro diagnosis and advise you.
In the last video clip I thought I spotted a shiny area on the edge of the crankshaft belt pulley. The picture wasn't steady/stable enough to be sure. Have you looked (it is hard but it must be done) to see if something may have dropped down (or a bracket or something else is loose) and is rubbing against the crankshaft pulley?
Have you checked for any play/looseness at the crankshaft pulley?
Sincerely,
Macster.
02-22-2012, 06:44 PM
#19
I don't think the engine noise is doing the voltage problem unless maybe some cam chain tensioner is doing intermitent shorting or some fool thing. I highly doubt that. Anyway since you are chasing down connections there is one on the bottom of the car where the power line to the rear couples together. It's a bolt together splice down there. I've never looked at it but imagine its a pain to get to unless you have a good lift.
You could try the game of diagnosing while changing what is turned on or connected. I was wondering if the a/c is on which would have the compressor on even if the heat is on. Make sure you turn the compressor off. Two things I'd go after is the radiator fans and compressor. Fans can be disconnect and a/c turned off. If the a/c is on it tells the fans to run last I knew. Also check on any audio amp located in the trunk.
Were the lights still doing the pulsing with the belt off? If so that eliminates the alternator.
On the a/c side compressor have a switch for engaging the belt drive. Maybe that system is screwing around. I seemed to of noticed the engagement screwing around after my compressor fried. If your refrigerant is low it can have your compressor alternating between on and off since it hits air pockets shutting the system off then back on when fluid is present in about the same cycle you are getting with the lights.
You could try the game of diagnosing while changing what is turned on or connected. I was wondering if the a/c is on which would have the compressor on even if the heat is on. Make sure you turn the compressor off. Two things I'd go after is the radiator fans and compressor. Fans can be disconnect and a/c turned off. If the a/c is on it tells the fans to run last I knew. Also check on any audio amp located in the trunk.
Were the lights still doing the pulsing with the belt off? If so that eliminates the alternator.
On the a/c side compressor have a switch for engaging the belt drive. Maybe that system is screwing around. I seemed to of noticed the engagement screwing around after my compressor fried. If your refrigerant is low it can have your compressor alternating between on and off since it hits air pockets shutting the system off then back on when fluid is present in about the same cycle you are getting with the lights.
02-22-2012, 06:52 PM
#20
I don't think the engine noise is doing the voltage problem unless maybe some cam chain tensioner is doing intermitent shorting or some fool thing. I highly doubt that. Anyway since you are chasing down connections there is one on the bottom of the car where the power line to the rear couples together. (where?) It's a bolt together splice down there. I've never looked at it but imagine its a pain to get to unless you have a good lift.
You could try the game of diagnosing while changing what is turned on or connected. I was wondering if the a/c is on which would have the compressor on even if the heat is on. Make sure you turn the compressor off. Two things I'd go after is the radiator fans and compressor. Fans can be disconnect and a/c turned off. If the a/c is on it tells the fans to run last I knew. Also check on any audio amp located in the trunk.
Were the lights still doing the pulsing with the belt off? If so that eliminates the alternator.
You could try the game of diagnosing while changing what is turned on or connected. I was wondering if the a/c is on which would have the compressor on even if the heat is on. Make sure you turn the compressor off. Two things I'd go after is the radiator fans and compressor. Fans can be disconnect and a/c turned off. If the a/c is on it tells the fans to run last I knew. Also check on any audio amp located in the trunk.
Were the lights still doing the pulsing with the belt off? If so that eliminates the alternator.
The a/c is not on for sure, although I do have the fan hack switch wired up for cooling when I need it. I did not care to look if flicker occurred without the belt on. (I will check tomorrow as well as the amp in the frunk)
02-23-2012, 12:14 AM
#22
Originally Posted by Ahsai:9300809
Could it be a loose spark plug?
Tomorrow i will post updates after inspecting the crank pulley, spark plugs and listening with the stethoscope to pinpoint the location.
02-23-2012, 12:38 AM
#23
I looked in the catalog and can't see a diagram of the cable route. But it does go along the underside of the car under the plastic. I think it was mentioned to be around the transmissioon. I'd say use the search function but for some reaso I just glanced over a seperate page of the site and didn't see the search icon. Oh well, dinner time.
02-23-2012, 09:16 AM
#24
this is just a copy and paste from ehow.....
Fixing flickering lights in an automobile
1
Check the alternator/generator with a voltmeter. The most common reason for flickering lights is a worn out alternator, as one of the three rotating plates that generate electricity wears out. So as the unit hits the "dead spot," the power wanes, causing the lights to flicker. The voltage should be over 13, ideally over 14 volts. Automotive parts shops will likely have a machine to test the alternator for free. Replace the alternator if it fails to produce more than 13 volts, or tests bad. Most alternators since the 1970s have internal voltage regulators, but for external models this unit is mounted close to the alternator and can cause part failure.
2
Check for loose or disconnected ground cables. Some on-board engine computer systems are sensitive to loose connections, affecting the ignition system as well. A ground strap or cable is on the engine and sometimes on the transmission. Many electrical items on the car, including the ignition system, will depend greatly on these ground connections. Wobbling bolts or intermittent connections can cause the lights to flicker. Tighten these grounds, as well as the primary battery ground wire.
3
Check for loose or disconnected ignition wires. On most cars, there is one wire for each spark plug. When they come loose, up to 70,000 volts of electricity can ground out every time the wire is fired by the distributor. This can cause severe light flickering and may damage sensitive electronics.
Read more: How to Fix Flickering Vehicle Lights | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5058944_fix-...#ixzz1nD6yc2HO
Fixing flickering lights in an automobile
1
Check the alternator/generator with a voltmeter. The most common reason for flickering lights is a worn out alternator, as one of the three rotating plates that generate electricity wears out. So as the unit hits the "dead spot," the power wanes, causing the lights to flicker. The voltage should be over 13, ideally over 14 volts. Automotive parts shops will likely have a machine to test the alternator for free. Replace the alternator if it fails to produce more than 13 volts, or tests bad. Most alternators since the 1970s have internal voltage regulators, but for external models this unit is mounted close to the alternator and can cause part failure.
2
Check for loose or disconnected ground cables. Some on-board engine computer systems are sensitive to loose connections, affecting the ignition system as well. A ground strap or cable is on the engine and sometimes on the transmission. Many electrical items on the car, including the ignition system, will depend greatly on these ground connections. Wobbling bolts or intermittent connections can cause the lights to flicker. Tighten these grounds, as well as the primary battery ground wire.
3
Check for loose or disconnected ignition wires. On most cars, there is one wire for each spark plug. When they come loose, up to 70,000 volts of electricity can ground out every time the wire is fired by the distributor. This can cause severe light flickering and may damage sensitive electronics.
Read more: How to Fix Flickering Vehicle Lights | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5058944_fix-...#ixzz1nD6yc2HO
02-23-2012, 10:50 AM
#25
this is just a copy and paste from ehow.....
Fixing flickering lights in an automobile
1
Check the alternator/generator with a voltmeter. The most common reason for flickering lights is a worn out alternator, as one of the three rotating plates that generate electricity wears out. So as the unit hits the "dead spot," the power wanes, causing the lights to flicker. The voltage should be over 13, ideally over 14 volts. Automotive parts shops will likely have a machine to test the alternator for free. Replace the alternator if it fails to produce more than 13 volts, or tests bad. Most alternators since the 1970s have internal voltage regulators, but for external models this unit is mounted close to the alternator and can cause part failure.
2
Check for loose or disconnected ground cables. Some on-board engine computer systems are sensitive to loose connections, affecting the ignition system as well. A ground strap or cable is on the engine and sometimes on the transmission. Many electrical items on the car, including the ignition system, will depend greatly on these ground connections. Wobbling bolts or intermittent connections can cause the lights to flicker. Tighten these grounds, as well as the primary battery ground wire.
3
Check for loose or disconnected ignition wires. On most cars, there is one wire for each spark plug. When they come loose, up to 70,000 volts of electricity can ground out every time the wire is fired by the distributor. This can cause severe light flickering and may damage sensitive electronics.
Read more: How to Fix Flickering Vehicle Lights | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5058944_fix-...#ixzz1nD6yc2HO
Fixing flickering lights in an automobile
1
Check the alternator/generator with a voltmeter. The most common reason for flickering lights is a worn out alternator, as one of the three rotating plates that generate electricity wears out. So as the unit hits the "dead spot," the power wanes, causing the lights to flicker. The voltage should be over 13, ideally over 14 volts. Automotive parts shops will likely have a machine to test the alternator for free. Replace the alternator if it fails to produce more than 13 volts, or tests bad. Most alternators since the 1970s have internal voltage regulators, but for external models this unit is mounted close to the alternator and can cause part failure.
2
Check for loose or disconnected ground cables. Some on-board engine computer systems are sensitive to loose connections, affecting the ignition system as well. A ground strap or cable is on the engine and sometimes on the transmission. Many electrical items on the car, including the ignition system, will depend greatly on these ground connections. Wobbling bolts or intermittent connections can cause the lights to flicker. Tighten these grounds, as well as the primary battery ground wire.
3
Check for loose or disconnected ignition wires. On most cars, there is one wire for each spark plug. When they come loose, up to 70,000 volts of electricity can ground out every time the wire is fired by the distributor. This can cause severe light flickering and may damage sensitive electronics.
Read more: How to Fix Flickering Vehicle Lights | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5058944_fix-...#ixzz1nD6yc2HO
In case I did not mention before.... the lights flicker while the ignition is in the "on" position while the engine is "off" BUT the symptoms intensify when the car is idling.
02-23-2012, 01:04 PM
#26
In case I did not mention before.... the lights flicker while the ignition is in the "on" position while the engine is "off" BUT the symptoms intensify when the car is idling.
02-23-2012, 04:34 PM
#27
Update on electrical issue: I looked at the major wiring harnesses, battery cables, relays again. I tested the battery while the car was idling and it showed 13.75 to 13.92 volts. Appears to be normal to me. I took the car for a drive and the voltage is smoothing out. At idle i now see the largest fluctuations on my gauge and the engine idle flucuations as well.
Update on clank: I tightened all the spark plugs again. #2 and #4 were the only plugs slightly off torque. No changes with the clank. I pulled the serpentine belt off again and used my stethoscope on the entire motor. The clank is CLEARLY coming from the crank pulley. I inspected behind the pulley and it was clear minus the slight dampening of oil. I am stumped. I took the car out for a nice drive (5-10 mins) and the sound is still there. I wonder if the sound is coming from the crankshaft and I am hearing the sound amplified on the pulley??? Ideas at this point??
Update on clank: I tightened all the spark plugs again. #2 and #4 were the only plugs slightly off torque. No changes with the clank. I pulled the serpentine belt off again and used my stethoscope on the entire motor. The clank is CLEARLY coming from the crank pulley. I inspected behind the pulley and it was clear minus the slight dampening of oil. I am stumped. I took the car out for a nice drive (5-10 mins) and the sound is still there. I wonder if the sound is coming from the crankshaft and I am hearing the sound amplified on the pulley??? Ideas at this point??
Last edited by RPMulli; 02-23-2012 at 05:16 PM.
02-23-2012, 04:51 PM
#28
Not sure where the voltage regulator is but try giving it a "technical tap" also known as banging on it. If it's a regulator with points in it they some times get corroded which lowers read voltages then the thing alternates between making up for the lower voltages. I've never seen my voltage gauge go as high as yours that I recall.
A bad cell in a battery won't show as lower voltages till the cell is completely shot. But before going all the way bad it will lack the amperage needed and pull the rest of the cells amperage available down hence the battery gets a load then the power isn't available. But if it's a bad cell you should be seeing reduced cranking power sometimes.
A bad cell in a battery won't show as lower voltages till the cell is completely shot. But before going all the way bad it will lack the amperage needed and pull the rest of the cells amperage available down hence the battery gets a load then the power isn't available. But if it's a bad cell you should be seeing reduced cranking power sometimes.
02-23-2012, 05:18 PM
#29
Not sure where the voltage regulator is but try giving it a "technical tap" also known as banging on it. If it's a regulator with points in it they some times get corroded which lowers read voltages then the thing alternates between making up for the lower voltages. I've never seen my voltage gauge go as high as yours that I recall.
A bad cell in a battery won't show as lower voltages till the cell is completely shot. But before going all the way bad it will lack the amperage needed and pull the rest of the cells amperage available down hence the battery gets a load then the power isn't available. But if it's a bad cell you should be seeing reduced cranking power sometimes.
A bad cell in a battery won't show as lower voltages till the cell is completely shot. But before going all the way bad it will lack the amperage needed and pull the rest of the cells amperage available down hence the battery gets a load then the power isn't available. But if it's a bad cell you should be seeing reduced cranking power sometimes.
02-23-2012, 05:46 PM
#30
I picked up a Durametric reader real soon after getting my car so that things like this would be easier to chase. I suggest getting one of those so that if anything is showing up it might give clues to where the bad info or parts get noticed. You can also read live reports on what outputs are from darn near everything in the car.