water pump
#16
WP has been written about extensively here. Apart from failure, another big concern is degradation of the plastic impeller leading to tiny chips possibly breaking off and getting lodged in the cooling capillaries in the head causing a cracked head or worse. Changing at 60K is good practice. It's not that difficult of a job. A word of caution. I was sold a 997 WP initially and the impeller was 3/32" larger in diameter than the 996 WP. The 997 WP would not spin inside of the housing. Had I not checked by spinning the pulley, I would have had a big problem.
#17
Mine has started dropping fluid a little, so I guess it's about that time to replace. 79K on the clock, so I feel that's about fair, but why are the prices soo freakin high for a water pump???? Technology doesnt equal the price. It's a PUMP that moves overpriced modified WATER!!!!!
I'm done.
I'm done.
#18
Rennlist Member
What dealer is that?......'cause someone got shafted, and we need to make sure people avoid this particular dealer.......
That kind of price I expect to pay for a new clutch at an indy shop, including parts and labor...
That kind of price I expect to pay for a new clutch at an indy shop, including parts and labor...
#20
Addict
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^^ To be fair that'd be a pretty good price on a clutch.
RE: Waterpump/coolant, at full price it would be $685.54 here in Raleigh NC at an independent. That's with Porsche coolant and pump, parts and labor. I'd expect the dealer to be a bit more though $1000 sounds a little high.
RE: Waterpump/coolant, at full price it would be $685.54 here in Raleigh NC at an independent. That's with Porsche coolant and pump, parts and labor. I'd expect the dealer to be a bit more though $1000 sounds a little high.
#21
Actually the Hilton Head dealer wanted $1280 ($450 for the pump, $80 for the thermostat, $100 for the coolant) and 3.5 hours labor as I recall. That was for a 986 and yes I realize they are different. An indy over towards Spartenburg wanted about $1000.
#22
Race Director
WP has been written about extensively here. Apart from failure, another big concern is degradation of the plastic impeller leading to tiny chips possibly breaking off and getting lodged in the cooling capillaries in the head causing a cracked head or worse. Changing at 60K is good practice. It's not that difficult of a job. A word of caution. I was sold a 997 WP initially and the impeller was 3/32" larger in diameter than the 996 WP. The 997 WP would not spin inside of the housing. Had I not checked by spinning the pulley, I would have had a big problem.
I did not see the new replacement pump -- the work was done at a dealer so I assume a factory WP was used -- so I do not know if the new WP had the same composite plastic impeller or if it was made of some other material.
Upon carefully looking over the old WP I did notice some sign with the original WP the impeller blades had come on contact with the WP cavity in the engine casting. There were what appeared to be small grooves on the edges of the blades that looked as if they had been made with contact with the rough surface of the WP cavity in the engine casting.
The WP shaft play was not nearly bad enough to allow the impeller to move enough for this to have happened.
I do not know where I got this idea but it the idea occurred to me the contact could have been intentional so there's some initial abrasion and wearing in so the impeller blades run very very close to the alum. of the engine casting to make the pump very efficient, that is to reduce the amount of coolant that can escape between the gap between the impeller blades and the engine casting.
Anyhow, always whenever a water pump is replaced it should be checked to make sure it turns freely.
Also, prior to installing a new t-stat the new t-stat should be tested for acceptable operation by putting it in a pan/pot of hot water on the stove with an accurate thermometer to verify the t-stat opens at the designated temp and that it opens fully. I like to drop the new and old t-stat in the same water to see if there are any significant differences in their behavior.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#24
RL Community Team
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#25
Drifting
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BEST CASE SCENARIO: car gives enough "warnings" or symptoms that WP is about to crap out so owner is able to fix/repair.
I have read about some owners who had ZERO warnings (or maybe some ignored the clues or were simply CLUEless) who then had to deal with a catastrophic failure.
I am leaning towards taking a vigilant/wait-and-see stance like Macster above (have 63K miles on original WP: no noises, drips or wiggle/jiggle so far)
I have read about some owners who had ZERO warnings (or maybe some ignored the clues or were simply CLUEless) who then had to deal with a catastrophic failure.
I am leaning towards taking a vigilant/wait-and-see stance like Macster above (have 63K miles on original WP: no noises, drips or wiggle/jiggle so far)
#26
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If your pump is original it requires service. Every three years or 60K mi. I changed my coolant a few times before the wp too. 100 degree temps often and school queus. Not worth the risk as it can go bad without warning.
Regards,
Regards,
#27
Burning Brakes
FWIW, like all parts on these cars, which constantly rise, the WP is up to $260 at Suncoast. They do not recommend the 997 WP for the 996, too many have reported interference, which is not normal.
#28
Drifting
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How come I am seeing new water pumps at Parts Geek for half the price of prices mentioned so far? Is there anything against installing these cheaper pumps. Any feed back from posters would be well appreciated along with Pros and Cons for these pumps. Thanks.
http://www.partsgeek.com/7bz9hxr-por...p+-+A1+Cardone
http://www.partsgeek.com/7bz9hxr-por...p+-+A1+Cardone