Engine Rebuild Part 3 (the finale)
12-29-2011, 02:00 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
I bet that thing is going to rip once it's all back together! Since it's balanced so well and has the JE slugs now, do you plan to raise the redline a few hundred RPMs?
12-29-2011, 09:46 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Bearing carrier cleaned again. Crankshaft cleaned again. Both given a once over before assembly.
Oil spray jets installed. Assembly lube in the bearings. Thrust shims installed (more lube).
End play measured at .0045".
Top half ready for insertion.
New ARP main bolts measured in the log book. ARP moly on the bolts and torqued in sequence and per the recommended values. The crankshaft feels so smooth in the carrier, there is absolutely no binding.
Scraper installed, new gaskets.
New LNE billet paddle, new chain, new bolts, clip, washer, rail cleaned and ready for install.
4-6 rods cleaned and ready to install. ARP rod bolts measured and lubed up. Rod bearings lubed and ready for install.
Rods carefully installed and torqued per the recommended values. Could not fit a stretch gauge in the bearing carrier. The rods slide around the journals as smoothly as the crank does in the carrier.
1-3 pistons and their matching pins, clips, and rings cleaned again and prepped for insertion.
Oil spray jets installed. Assembly lube in the bearings. Thrust shims installed (more lube).
End play measured at .0045".
Top half ready for insertion.
New ARP main bolts measured in the log book. ARP moly on the bolts and torqued in sequence and per the recommended values. The crankshaft feels so smooth in the carrier, there is absolutely no binding.
Scraper installed, new gaskets.
New LNE billet paddle, new chain, new bolts, clip, washer, rail cleaned and ready for install.
4-6 rods cleaned and ready to install. ARP rod bolts measured and lubed up. Rod bearings lubed and ready for install.
Rods carefully installed and torqued per the recommended values. Could not fit a stretch gauge in the bearing carrier. The rods slide around the journals as smoothly as the crank does in the carrier.
1-3 pistons and their matching pins, clips, and rings cleaned again and prepped for insertion.
12-30-2011, 01:05 AM
#22
Race Director
As for imbalance, the engine balancer said he got it "dead on", with a wry grin of course... within .2 grams for a set of 4 is what I was told.
The DMF was about 20 grams off at 5 inches out mind you... took quite a bit of trimming to get it in balance. They had everything bolted up and balanced on the balancer... then as soon as the DMF was bolted up it threw the whole thing out of whack.
.
The DMF was about 20 grams off at 5 inches out mind you... took quite a bit of trimming to get it in balance. They had everything bolted up and balanced on the balancer... then as soon as the DMF was bolted up it threw the whole thing out of whack.
.
Trying to balance with a DMF has got to be murder. No thoughts of ditching it for a lightweight flywheel?
12-30-2011, 11:55 AM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I've thought about a LWFW, but everything I've read says to stick with the DMF... and this is not a race car. As you point out though, it is a little tempting with a well balanced engine. I'm after longevity first, and performance second.
Yep, you can see the thrust shims in that pic pointed out above, a little horseshoe looking piece on the 4th tower from the bottom (or top) of pic. There is one on the backside too.
It's important that they are installed with the grooves facing out, and axial play is measured during and after carrier assembly.
From what Jake tells us, sometimes this material is soft from the factory (perhaps leading to premature failure as mentioned earlier), and I believe he has a process to cryogenically enhance them. I'm not sure if he also coats them with PC3 anti-friction for further longevity.
Yep, you can see the thrust shims in that pic pointed out above, a little horseshoe looking piece on the 4th tower from the bottom (or top) of pic. There is one on the backside too.
It's important that they are installed with the grooves facing out, and axial play is measured during and after carrier assembly.
From what Jake tells us, sometimes this material is soft from the factory (perhaps leading to premature failure as mentioned earlier), and I believe he has a process to cryogenically enhance them. I'm not sure if he also coats them with PC3 anti-friction for further longevity.
12-30-2011, 10:42 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Happy new year everyone! This might be the last update until next year. I probably won't have time to work until next week.
Prepping the rings for installation. The orintation of the rings, piston, clips, and rods are very important.
The top ring gap is at the bottom of the piston, the 2nd ring at the top of the piston, The top and bottom oil rings are staggered roughly 10 & 2 o'clock at the piston top, and the oil control ring gap is at the bottom. The exhaust side of the piston points down (below JE logo), and so does the twist lock side of the rod's big end. The wrist pin clips orient in one direction. There was a little metal in this area left over from drilling at the factory, and had to be removed during final inspection and cleaning (yes, more cleaning, always cleaning to be done).
Some successful wrist pin clip insertions. This takes finger strength, high tolerance for pain, and patience. Note the use of more lube (oh, and did I mention more cleaning before that?). Half way there! The next 3 wrist pin clips will be as "easy" as the first 6 and then the last three will be a major pain in the ***, but I love a challenge.
Wrist pin clip installation tool at the top (purchased), driver (hammer), business end of the insertion tool, the clip compression tool, and tool to drive it into the business end.
Yes, I know this is supposed to be used for 4-6 installation, but it works great here too, on the bench.
One last review before completing assembly on the pistons. A 50/50 mixture of GM EOS assembly lube and Brad Penn SAE 30 break in oil gets generously applied to rings, pistons, and cylinders. The CMW goes on the pins and rod bearings.
The rings are carefully installed using the ring installer tool in the correct pattern and piston slots. The markings on the rings face the combustion chamber (in this case N and a dot).
Once the pistons are assembled, the ring compressor prepares them for insertion into the 1-3 case half. This is NOT the factory method. I read through it about 4 times and scratched my head each time. Why waste so much time flipping the case end over end so many times. I remember watching the factory engine build tour video. The factory engine builders have it on an automated rig that rotates the engine at the touch of a button (and in a few seconds)... then more automated tools lower down and do the actual work.... however the method I am using based on Jake's assembly web page, it makes a whole lot more sense and saves time. Put the 1-3 pistons in, then drop the completed bearing carrier in.
The pistons are inserted in the correct orientation (exhaust side of the piston facing down) and back side of the rods protected until the bearing carrier drops in.
And the pistons moved and ready for dropping the bearing carrier in.
Prepping the rings for installation. The orintation of the rings, piston, clips, and rods are very important.
The top ring gap is at the bottom of the piston, the 2nd ring at the top of the piston, The top and bottom oil rings are staggered roughly 10 & 2 o'clock at the piston top, and the oil control ring gap is at the bottom. The exhaust side of the piston points down (below JE logo), and so does the twist lock side of the rod's big end. The wrist pin clips orient in one direction. There was a little metal in this area left over from drilling at the factory, and had to be removed during final inspection and cleaning (yes, more cleaning, always cleaning to be done).
Some successful wrist pin clip insertions. This takes finger strength, high tolerance for pain, and patience. Note the use of more lube (oh, and did I mention more cleaning before that?). Half way there! The next 3 wrist pin clips will be as "easy" as the first 6 and then the last three will be a major pain in the ***, but I love a challenge.
Wrist pin clip installation tool at the top (purchased), driver (hammer), business end of the insertion tool, the clip compression tool, and tool to drive it into the business end.
Yes, I know this is supposed to be used for 4-6 installation, but it works great here too, on the bench.
One last review before completing assembly on the pistons. A 50/50 mixture of GM EOS assembly lube and Brad Penn SAE 30 break in oil gets generously applied to rings, pistons, and cylinders. The CMW goes on the pins and rod bearings.
The rings are carefully installed using the ring installer tool in the correct pattern and piston slots. The markings on the rings face the combustion chamber (in this case N and a dot).
Once the pistons are assembled, the ring compressor prepares them for insertion into the 1-3 case half. This is NOT the factory method. I read through it about 4 times and scratched my head each time. Why waste so much time flipping the case end over end so many times. I remember watching the factory engine build tour video. The factory engine builders have it on an automated rig that rotates the engine at the touch of a button (and in a few seconds)... then more automated tools lower down and do the actual work.... however the method I am using based on Jake's assembly web page, it makes a whole lot more sense and saves time. Put the 1-3 pistons in, then drop the completed bearing carrier in.
The pistons are inserted in the correct orientation (exhaust side of the piston facing down) and back side of the rods protected until the bearing carrier drops in.
And the pistons moved and ready for dropping the bearing carrier in.
Last edited by logray; 02-11-2012 at 10:49 PM. Reason: accuracy
12-31-2011, 06:58 AM
#29
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12-31-2011, 12:24 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Great catch! You might be onto something here actually. It looks like I accidentally inserted the clips backwards. The hole for the tang in the piston is drilled at an angle, and the tang on the clip looks like it should go at the same angle. DOH! Well good thing I haven't dropped the bearing carrier in yet (or worse, sealed up the case).
They are certainly seated though, but I will pull those clips again and order up some new ones.
edit: Darn, 1 week backorder on those clips. Another week of delays.
Here is a pic of an unsuccessful insertion courtesy flat 6 innovations website, you can see the the clip is not seated in the inside groove (but the correct orientation of the clip):
They are certainly seated though, but I will pull those clips again and order up some new ones.
edit: Darn, 1 week backorder on those clips. Another week of delays.
Here is a pic of an unsuccessful insertion courtesy flat 6 innovations website, you can see the the clip is not seated in the inside groove (but the correct orientation of the clip):
Last edited by logray; 12-31-2011 at 01:08 PM.