ltusler

Carey,

I did get what I thought was your PM, and replied, but sonething didnt seem right so I must have screwed it up. Anyhow, the 3.8 Jake built is a wonder! People comment on the sound and often ask if its a turbo after they get a ride. Jake is correct, the torque makes the motor. Once up on the VCam, the thing keeps pulling all the way to red line and does not run out of breath in any gear. I've hit 154 on the main straight at Brainerd in 5th gear and its still pulling. Keep in mind that it is also a X51 and Jake had extra head work done and the ecu has been massaged by Protomotive. Not much I can't keep up with except modern turbos, cup cars, and GT3 RS's. In short, I can't reccommend his work enough!

Hardback

No problem... Sounds like you've been having fun... Brainerd is a great track. I've watched numerous superbike races there over the years. Can't wait to get the car back on track with a fresh motor. Thanks for the follow up.

legalese77

Anxious to see how this works out. My '02 3.6L C4S has been burning oil and just doesn't exhilarate like I think it should. Been eyeing the 3.8 upgrade. I'd like to see those dynos mentioned earlier...

Hardback

Im still waiting on the engine cases to be returned from LN. My mechanic has a dyno shop next door. Once the motor is broken in Ill post up the dyno numbers. Hoping to be back on the road by mid February.

occb2

Carey,

I Just brought a 2002 C4 Cab with the LN 3.8 engine. Let me tell you, I test drove 3.4's and 3.6's when I was looking to get a 996. All I can say is WOW. This thing is, hands down, faster than my 930. Tons of torque and power.

The history on the 2002 C4 Cab, was the typical IM bearing, and the case was sent out to LN and the case was done by them and the customer wanted to bump it up to a 3.8 and they used the Nikasil and JE kit that they sell. I wish you could take my car out for a spin and you will see that you did the best thing by picking out that kit.

DO NOT GET A ALUM FLYWHEEL!!!! My car has it and it has a new clutch. So it will have it for a while, due to the fact that I am not going to pay to replace it. The reason I would like to replace it, is it rattles like crazy. At a light, with the clutch out, sounds like my throw out bearing is going to fall out. Below 2000 rpm makes a terrible rattle. My 930 does the same with the Alum flywheel. Price you pay for quick response. Anyway. When you get it, brake it in slow. LN will give you instructions. Good luck and ENJOY.

Robert

logray

On the contrary. The engine will thank you for not being nice to it. Don't baby it !!!!!

The correct way to break it in is on a dyno... basically first startup is to get oil pressure quickly and hold higher than idle rpms for 15 or so min. Then the torture begins... including many near red line accelerations, allowing the engine to do the braking and not the dyno.

Read through these for proper break in procedures:

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html (search break in)

http://www.lnengineering.com/support.html (section on break in)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/re...s/engnbrkn.htm

I'm almost to this point with my Nickies build !!!!

occb2

Im just going on what I was told 2 years ago on my 930 rebuild. This car had 8000 on the ln rebuild when I got it. The Ln paperwork/receipt stated brake in oil be changed in 500 miles. So i guessed it was a nice 500 miles. LOL.

Hardback

Thanks guys, if you knew me you would know ive never babied anything that contains a motor. I rode superbikes for the first half of my life and only graduated to Porsche in last couple years. That being said, I plan to follow any directions given by LN as this build is quite costly and i expect to reap the rewards for being patient and rebuilding this motor the right way.

oocb2, glad to hear first hand experience with the 3.8. I cant wait to aggravate some people at the track.The lightweight flywheel was never an option for me. Ive been advised against it by LN and Jake. I drive the car daily and even though there are some performance gains I couldnt listen to the chatter.

logray, ive been following your build and cant wait to hear your impressions once your done. I think I speak for most here when I say we are quite impressed with your skill, accuracy and patience while you rebuild your own motor. The threads you've created should be archived here for others to read in my opinion.

logray

If you have new lifters and new cams, as well as other new head hardware, if I remember right you should replace oil after first fire. If less new hardware in the heads, top off oil and change the filter after first fire, then change oil and filter again at 200 miles to non-synth mcycle oil. Don't switch to synthetic after at least 1k miles. You should read through all of those links though, there really is a wealth of great information. Or at least make sure you have an understanding with your engine builder as to what procedures they will be using if they are doing the initial firing and break in (and they should be using the recommended procedures).

Once it's broken in, it's broken in. If you take er easy after that, well then that's just your driving style! :P

Dharn55

So one question is "Does Porsche use a non-synthetic oil for break-in at the factory?" My guess is that they fill up the engines with Mobil 1 0W40 on assembly and that is what is in the engine until the first oil change. And the manual that came with my car shows the first oil change at 15,000 miles! OUCH!!

I think the LN procedures and the other write ups are probably great, but I am thinking that none of the factory engines had anything close.

I also get a kick out the the oil recommendations in the manual.

Temp Mineral Synthetic

50F+ 15W40 10W40
20W50 15W40
20W40 15W50

50F- 15W40 10W40
10W40 10W30
10W30 5W30

14F- 10W30 N/A
5W30

So no 0W40 at all, and listings for mineral and synthetic. And it goes on to say 10W40 or higher unless mostly below 32F then 5W30.

There were TSB's after that date of my manual that had other listings including 0W40, but not in the manual.

Interesting?

Dharn55

Sorry the formatting above is a little screwed up, cannot use tabs.

logray

Doug as I remember watching the factory tour they do at least have every car on a rolling dyno and brought engine at redline before driving off.

But as far as what oil they use, the only thing we have to go off of is I remember Jake saying he was dismantling a fresh crate engine, and it was not pretty...

Cloudspin

Carey,

I recently had my '03 C2's engine rebuilt by Jake and his guys at Flat 6. I live in Coconut Creek, not far from Tune RS. It looks like we do some of the same track events. It would be great to compare notes with you once you are back on the road. Best of luck with the rebuild.

Hardback

Thanks pal... I was at TuneRS yesterday and Taylor tells me he will have the cases back in a couple weeks. Im getting closer... Introduce yourself if you see me at the track. If all goes well I should be at Homestead with Chin at the end of Feb.

Cloudspin

Sounds good. I'm signed up as an instructor on the Saturday of that Chin event. Chin Sebring on 12/5 was to have been my first track day with new motor but it rained on and off all day and I only got about 10 hot laps. Some guy in a Lexus lost it on the paint at start / finish, spun 75 yards before it hooked up at a 90 degree angle and went straight into the retaining wall (destroying about 10' of it) , went up in the air, landed back on the track spinning another 100 yards before again going into the wall nose first. Guy was ok, car was trashed.

HOD at PBIR is next. See you at HMS.