speed rII

Can you take a pic from this mystery hose?

ohdavey6286

My battery had a dead cell once and it would turn everything but the car on with no issues. When I tried to crank the car it didnt make a ticking noise or dim the lights. New battery fixed all the issues.

Ubermensch

Sounds like the leak did some damage to an electrical connection, or when you were working in the area you did some damage.

trendy996

I thought I noted it was a coolant hose. There is only one coolant hose under the airbox. If I had damaged anything working on the car the car wouldn't have had the chance to drive down the road and blow the hose off now would it??
If the car is in the mode where it 'thinks it's been in some sort of wreck' how do I clear that out to allow it to try and start?

C4CRNA

So the battery tests out at 12 volts at the battery?
The current doesn't register at the volt meter on the dashboard?
or are you measuring it at the engine/starter

trendy996

I'm just going off the dash guage. As soon as I try to turn it over it just clicks one time (not repeatedly) and then the meter drops to zero. I have tried to jump it but does the same thing. I'm going to try and put a battery charger on it and see what that does. Also I'm going to try and rotate the crank to make sure it's not locked up.

C4CRNA

I think you may have a dead battery that is complicating this situation.
unless at the battery terminals you have 12V
What have been working on with this car?
Why do you think the crank is would be locked up?

KrazyK

Hmmm. Did it have time to fry the engine?

trendy996

I never rule anything out bc I know anything can happen. Whether it's common or not. Only reason I could see it being locked up is from vapor or it just happened that quickly. It never read on the temp guage that it over heated. The engine immediately shut itself off after the hose popped. I figured it did that bc it saw a loss in pressure and went into a fail safe mode like Audis do. Audis are what I came from. I've been building Audis for almost 10 years now and finally got into a porsche.
It had an intermix problem of oil getting in the coolant. Not coolant getting into the oil. So I pulled the engine and did a while I was in there thing of upgrades that consisted of:
underdrive crank
aasco lwfw
sachs race clutch
new throw out bearing
new aos
new oil cooler
new water pump
new 160 tstat
muffler deletes
honed out the inner welds on the manifolds and ceramic coated them
new 05 coolant cap
new coolant resivour
solid subframe mounts
solid engine mounts
oil change

redridge

try disconnecting the battery for 5-10 min.... start with the simple stuff first, make sure it has a good charge.... does the starter click?

trendy996

I tried and let it sit for a few min. Starter clicks once only. It clicks a single click noise and that's it.

targa996

If it does the same thing when jumping - unlikely to be the battery itself. Mine did that after the DME fuse rattled loose (after stereo shop had taken out and replaced all the fuses trying to find the bose amp fuse) - that is a 1 minute check.

Other reason that you might get something like that is bad ground connection - there is a big ground strap under the engine. Check ground strap is tight and not corroded there - and also on the starter itself while you look at it.

C4CRNA

Was that the first time you ran it after all those repairs?

trendy996

Yes, it was the first time. I had started it the night before and let it idle till it reached operating temps and gave it a few revs.
I charged it and nothing so I removed the airbox to gain access to the crank. I tried to rotate and shes locked up. So I removed the throttle body and plenum to see the I/M filled bad with oil. My friends Dad of a Dayton, OH Porsche dealer said it sounds like there is something cloging the breather system causing it blow the oil into the I/M. I'm thinking it is a bad AOS because I also got a intermix of oil in the coolant and the coolant overflow tank was getting over pressurized causing it to blow out and drain through the drain tube all over the exhaust. Going to drop the engine and replace the AOS and the lines, clean the I/M out, remove the spark plugs, and HOPEFULLY get it to turn over after adding some break loose. Not expecting that to work. So if that's the case she's sitting in the garage all winter and is getting stroked to a 3.7. If that's the case I plan to research to figure out what parts are used to do this as I am having my friend make me titanium rods for it to reduce roational mass while increasing strength since I plan to boost it. I'd like to be able to get it driving but I'll be just as happy to fully build inside out for the 4 months of winter.

Any comments appreciated

Macster

Reads like a bad AOS. In some cases the AOS can fail in such a way the crankcase is subjected to full engine 'vacuum' and this can pull enough oil from the crankcase which is course routed to the intake manifold and the engine can experience hydraulic lock due too much oil. It only takes one cylinder and it doesn't take much oil.

I'd look at the AOS and how it is connected/hooked up to ensure it isn't some relatively simple installation goof. If the AOS's integrity is questionable it might be worth the effort to simply fit a new AOS.

But it would be nice to know it was (or was not) the AOS. If it is the AOS, fine.

If not then you have to figure out where the oil is coming from.

I can think the head oil scavage pumps being installed incorrectly. They can be swapped, the one for cylinder bank 1 installed in the hole for cylinder bank 2 and vice versa, but the pumps do not turn the right way and will not scavage oil.

Or scavage pumps for say just one bank were bought not knowing there's a difference.

Anyhow, since this is the first time you fired up the engine after a rebuild you have to consider something like an oil scavage pump mixup.

Titanium rods are nice, but don't skimp on the rod bolts.

Sincerely,

Macster.