CEL & CAI
#16
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I can post the pinout of the MAF sensor when I get home, but here's the procedure itself.
Find your MAF sensor, it'll have 5 wires going to it. If you disconnect the connector there are actually numbers (under the rubber boot) showing what each wire number is. You want wire #5, it's the sense line coming from the MAF sensor for air. On my car it is the solid blue wire on the drivers side.
Note: There are weather resistant blue insulators around the wire. To get the multimeter point to actually touch the connector you need to push it in. The insulator will move out of the way and you can feel when the multimeter point is in there.
You want to measure the voltage coming off of this wire to ground. A good ground point is the single 13mm bolt holding the airbox down.
Procedure:
I read somebody else with the same problem getting 1.17V in step 2, so the tolerance is very small. Anything above 1.1V is bad.
The whole test should only take 5 minutes. It's a very simple way to save yourself the dealer diagnostic fee.
Oh yeah, go buy a code scanner too!
Ben
Find your MAF sensor, it'll have 5 wires going to it. If you disconnect the connector there are actually numbers (under the rubber boot) showing what each wire number is. You want wire #5, it's the sense line coming from the MAF sensor for air. On my car it is the solid blue wire on the drivers side.
Note: There are weather resistant blue insulators around the wire. To get the multimeter point to actually touch the connector you need to push it in. The insulator will move out of the way and you can feel when the multimeter point is in there.
You want to measure the voltage coming off of this wire to ground. A good ground point is the single 13mm bolt holding the airbox down.
Procedure:
- Turn key to on position (but don't start the car).
- Measure voltage between #5 and ground. A good MAF will read between .9V and 1.1V. After cleaning mine read 1.0V exactly.
- Turn car on
- Measure voltage, it should be higher. (I'll post exact numbers later).
I read somebody else with the same problem getting 1.17V in step 2, so the tolerance is very small. Anything above 1.1V is bad.
The whole test should only take 5 minutes. It's a very simple way to save yourself the dealer diagnostic fee.
Oh yeah, go buy a code scanner too!
Ben
#17
Addict
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Last edited by morganabowen; 10-25-2011 at 05:21 PM.
#18
Racer
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my k&n experience was not on my carrera but a with a bmw. put on the k&n and after a short while cel is on. obd code says maf. used the can of maf cleaner and removed k&n for stock and no light for about a year. then cel again. this time maf needed replacement. i will not use that type of product on an engine that has a maf again.
#19
Race Director
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I have been contemplating purchasing a CAI system for my 2000 C4, with focus on the K&N system. It seems they are the most cost friendly and most of the comments on this board seem to favor K&N. I've noticed that the issue of the oily filter has a negative effect on the MAF, is there any way of avoiding this problem![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Any and all responses and suggestions are appreciated.
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In the case of the 996 the engine's air intake is already located at as best I can tell the ideal location that will result in the coolest air being ingested by the engine.
So, I fail to see how a CAI that relies upon the same intake location as the stock intake system can deliver any colder air than the stock intake system.
Then you have the question of the CAI filter's efficiency compared to teh stock filter and the added complexity of cleaning and oiling the filter element.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#20
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The cai will gain hp with a reflash and a free flowing exhaust.... The system works great together with an awesome sound. Evoms is prob the best cai.... Though I think the workmanship is a joke for the amount of money you pay.....
By itself, cai does nothing but gives you a nice sound...
By itself, cai does nothing but gives you a nice sound...