Planning Fall work - soft brakes and clutch
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I'm starting to gather my parts for the fall jack stand session. On the block today are my softer-than-I-want brakes and clutch.
I keep hearing about these amazing OEM brakes. Now I'd like to actually experience them. My plans are to replace the brake lines with SS ones (undecided, pelicanparts.com for $70 or Goodwrench for ~$115) and flush the brake system (thinking ATE Super Blue). My pads, installed by the DPO, dumb previous owner, have good amounts of life left on them. The car was serviced by a Porsche dealer in LA, so I'm assuming they are OEM.
What else should I do to the brake system while I'm in there? At this point I'd just like to get it back to the 'new' feeling. I'm going to look for stuck pistons in the calipers while I'm in there.
Next up will be the clutch. What I'm really doing is the IMS & RMS, but I'd rather not put in a clutch with almost 60k on it. What do people recommend here? I'd like to do this with the idea of a forced induction kit in the future. Is the TT clutch compatible and the same as the stock C2 one? I'm going in with the hope that my flywheel is ok (no reason to think it's not currently).
BTW - Part of this being my hobby car is that I plan on doing all of the work myself.
I keep hearing about these amazing OEM brakes. Now I'd like to actually experience them. My plans are to replace the brake lines with SS ones (undecided, pelicanparts.com for $70 or Goodwrench for ~$115) and flush the brake system (thinking ATE Super Blue). My pads, installed by the DPO, dumb previous owner, have good amounts of life left on them. The car was serviced by a Porsche dealer in LA, so I'm assuming they are OEM.
What else should I do to the brake system while I'm in there? At this point I'd just like to get it back to the 'new' feeling. I'm going to look for stuck pistons in the calipers while I'm in there.
Next up will be the clutch. What I'm really doing is the IMS & RMS, but I'd rather not put in a clutch with almost 60k on it. What do people recommend here? I'd like to do this with the idea of a forced induction kit in the future. Is the TT clutch compatible and the same as the stock C2 one? I'm going in with the hope that my flywheel is ok (no reason to think it's not currently).
BTW - Part of this being my hobby car is that I plan on doing all of the work myself.
Last edited by healey1968; 09-09-2011 at 03:18 AM.
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So here's my follow up. I'm trying to fix some curb rash on my wheels and have the passenger rear tire off today. This gave me a chance to do a better brake inspection.
First, the pads look great on both sides of the rotor, atleast 80% pad life left. The rotor I check measured in at 23.99mm with my calipers. New, according to the WSM, is 24mm, so I'm great there. The part number stamped into the rotor is 996.352.401.04.4098. I can't find the .4098 on pelicanparts, but it basically looks like I have OEM (balo, zimmermann, sebro, whatever). Point being, rotors aren't my problem.
There's also evidence that somebody bled the brakes at one point - evident from the bubbled & missing paint near the nipple on the caliper
I'll rebleed in a month or so.
So - what else could be causing my soft pedal? Do the master cylinders go bad often? Can I get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder? Is there an easy test to check it?
First, the pads look great on both sides of the rotor, atleast 80% pad life left. The rotor I check measured in at 23.99mm with my calipers. New, according to the WSM, is 24mm, so I'm great there. The part number stamped into the rotor is 996.352.401.04.4098. I can't find the .4098 on pelicanparts, but it basically looks like I have OEM (balo, zimmermann, sebro, whatever). Point being, rotors aren't my problem.
There's also evidence that somebody bled the brakes at one point - evident from the bubbled & missing paint near the nipple on the caliper
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
So - what else could be causing my soft pedal? Do the master cylinders go bad often? Can I get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder? Is there an easy test to check it?
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The rotors are good.......pads are good....next thing to do is bleed the brakes. I wouldn't wait for a month or so. Do it now. Get a Motive Power bleeder. It is a one man operation. If that doesn't cure it I would look at rebuilding the calipers.
But before you do all that, fill us in on the car. What year, miles, condition? And the big question is how do you know what the brakes 'should' feel like? Have you driven other Pcars? My point is there may be nothing wrong with them.
But before you do all that, fill us in on the car. What year, miles, condition? And the big question is how do you know what the brakes 'should' feel like? Have you driven other Pcars? My point is there may be nothing wrong with them.
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+1 on the Motive bleeder, but don't put that ATE Blue stuff in your car. It's hell to get the blue dye out of the system if you go to another fluid, and it's boiling point properties are just ok. Go with Motul, SRF, or ProSpeed683 if you want high-end brake fluid.