How long to pull/install engine?
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Vasteras, Sweden/Pompano Beach, FL
How long to pull/install engine?
Hi guys,
Since my experience is mostly within air cooled porsches, I have a rookie question for you:
How long does it take to pull the engine and trans from the car? And to install it?
On the air cooled I usually pull it in 45 minutes, but need 2 hours to re-install. Given the complexity with the water cooling, I figure it takes longer with the 996. On the other hand, everything I have done with my 996 so far has proven to be very easy, since it is a fairly well engineered car made for fast mass production.
Thereare some nice write-ups, but no-one I found mention the time it takes. I have a normal garage, no fancy two-pole lift or anything....
Thanks,
Johan
Since my experience is mostly within air cooled porsches, I have a rookie question for you:
How long does it take to pull the engine and trans from the car? And to install it?
On the air cooled I usually pull it in 45 minutes, but need 2 hours to re-install. Given the complexity with the water cooling, I figure it takes longer with the 996. On the other hand, everything I have done with my 996 so far has proven to be very easy, since it is a fairly well engineered car made for fast mass production.
Thereare some nice write-ups, but no-one I found mention the time it takes. I have a normal garage, no fancy two-pole lift or anything....
Thanks,
Johan
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,023
Likes: 72
From: Southern Utah
Im thinking with correct tools, less than 2 hours. I was told it took me longer to just drop my trans than it would have took to drop the whole thing. Thats my guesstimate and im sticking to it.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 9
From: Nor Cal
I agree with Doug, last time I did it from memory it was 4 hours including a short lunch... I'm sure next time I could shave some more time off. Installation went faster both times I've done it.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,519
Likes: 56
From: Columbus OH
You guys have a breif write-up on specifics around getting the motor out.
Really I understand it for the most part. what I"m concerned about in trying this at my house is not being able to get the car high enough to get the motor / tranny to clear once it's dropped.
Love to hear what you're doing to get the car high enough, placement of jack stands, and what you're using to lower the engine / tranny out of the car still allowing you to get it low enough to drag it out.
I need to drop the motor in the GT3 this winter to fix the dreaded coolant fittings and I'm usually the DIY type but a little concerned with attempting the motor drop without the aid of a lift.
Andy
Really I understand it for the most part. what I"m concerned about in trying this at my house is not being able to get the car high enough to get the motor / tranny to clear once it's dropped.
Love to hear what you're doing to get the car high enough, placement of jack stands, and what you're using to lower the engine / tranny out of the car still allowing you to get it low enough to drag it out.
I need to drop the motor in the GT3 this winter to fix the dreaded coolant fittings and I'm usually the DIY type but a little concerned with attempting the motor drop without the aid of a lift.
Andy
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 9
From: Nor Cal
Rear jack stands need to go around 19-20". Then you can lower the front of the car to get the back end up high enough to roll it out. Obviously if you can get the back end higher (say 30" or so) then you don't need to bother with jacking the car up or down once the engine is on the floor.
If you remove the intake you can get more clearance out the back under the frame once you've removed the bumper.
If you don't want to buy the sanctioned engine supports, some people have used motorcycle jacks to safely jack under the oil pan (sides of oil pan are flat).
Here's my write up... I used cheap trans jacks to lower it first (don't do this) but later modified a furniture dolly along with my floor jack (along with a separate trans jacK) to do the job in and out.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...res-later.html
(the link to the pictures with comments is right near the top).
On a GT3 though... I'm sure there will be many many differences, including perhaps not being able to do it via the oil pan, rather purchasing the correct factory brackets might be the way to go.
If you remove the intake you can get more clearance out the back under the frame once you've removed the bumper.
If you don't want to buy the sanctioned engine supports, some people have used motorcycle jacks to safely jack under the oil pan (sides of oil pan are flat).
Here's my write up... I used cheap trans jacks to lower it first (don't do this) but later modified a furniture dolly along with my floor jack (along with a separate trans jacK) to do the job in and out.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...res-later.html
(the link to the pictures with comments is right near the top).
On a GT3 though... I'm sure there will be many many differences, including perhaps not being able to do it via the oil pan, rather purchasing the correct factory brackets might be the way to go.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 215
Likes: 3
From: KC
Took me a bit over 4 hrs the firs time. Now could do in about 2 hrs.
Here are pics and shortcuts from my engine/trans removal.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ed-engine.html
Get a hose removal tool. I makes loosening the hoses from the pipes a dream rather than nightmare. You insert it betwen hose & pipe and then circle around. You can see me using it in one of my pics. The AC is other item that is difficult the first time. And see my notes/pics on the gray plastic elbow connection. The manual glosses over some of the things that will slow you down.
Here are pics and shortcuts from my engine/trans removal.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ed-engine.html
Get a hose removal tool. I makes loosening the hoses from the pipes a dream rather than nightmare. You insert it betwen hose & pipe and then circle around. You can see me using it in one of my pics. The AC is other item that is difficult the first time. And see my notes/pics on the gray plastic elbow connection. The manual glosses over some of the things that will slow you down.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Vasteras, Sweden/Pompano Beach, FL
Hi again,
I am getting ready to do my engine drop, and have started to prepare. However, there are some things concerning me....
First, I have read the engine drop threads, maybe not all of them but many. However, I cant seem to find a step by step guide anywhere? I guess I just use the workshop manuals, and Use the forum write-ups for the areas of concern, like the AC compressor.
Then, when I look under the car, it seems to have some crossmembers holding the suspension together. Do I need to remove these as well, all of them? Is the car still rolling after I remove them? Reason I ask is that the car is going off for paint during the head rebuild.
Last question for now; would it be easier to leave the transmission in the car? It seems like a lot of work can be saved by leaving it there, but maybe the re-install is much harder. I have a tiptronic.
Thanks,
Johan
I am getting ready to do my engine drop, and have started to prepare. However, there are some things concerning me....
First, I have read the engine drop threads, maybe not all of them but many. However, I cant seem to find a step by step guide anywhere? I guess I just use the workshop manuals, and Use the forum write-ups for the areas of concern, like the AC compressor.
Then, when I look under the car, it seems to have some crossmembers holding the suspension together. Do I need to remove these as well, all of them? Is the car still rolling after I remove them? Reason I ask is that the car is going off for paint during the head rebuild.
Last question for now; would it be easier to leave the transmission in the car? It seems like a lot of work can be saved by leaving it there, but maybe the re-install is much harder. I have a tiptronic.
Thanks,
Johan
Rennlist Stories
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Every Era of 911 Owner Explained in One Sentence
Verdad Gallardo
Thinking of Buying a Porsche? Do These 10 Things First
Joe Kucinski
Pixar Pals Turned Into 1-of-1 Porsches!
Michael S. Palmer
Theon Goes Full Carbon Fiber With Stunning New Build
Verdad Gallardo
Genius Porsche-Themed Gifts That'll Make Any Dad or Grad Smile
Joe Kucinski
10 Used Porsches Are Selling for Way Too Cheap
Joe Kucinski
Tuner Is Converting Porsche 911s Into Shooting Brakes
Verdad Gallardo
This Coachbuilt Creation Is A Modern Take on the Legendary Porsche 917
Verdad Gallardo
Is This Convertible Cayenne A Steal, Or A Returnless Investment?
Verdad Gallardo
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 9
From: Nor Cal
...Then, when I look under the car, it seems to have some crossmembers holding the suspension together. Do I need to remove these as well, all of them? Is the car still rolling after I remove them? Reason I ask is that the car is going off for paint during the head rebuild.
Most of those questions are answered in the workshop manual engine removal instructions (except for the tip on the A/C).
Good luck and spend plenty of time documenting things as you go!
