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Blackstone oil report results - 996 3.6L, 7k mi

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Old 08-14-2011, 03:38 PM
  #16  
kt
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Originally Posted by No HTwo O
KT:

1) Good job, keep doing the UOA's
2) Maybe decrease your interval to 4,000 miles until your copper comes down
3) I don't want to start an oil war/thread, but maybe consider a "better" oil to give you more high temp and high shear protection. Maybe, for example, Mobil One 5W50 (hard to find, Porsche approved) would be a better choice. Again, no oil wars. Just a thought.
I'm not an oil expert so I'll ask some basic questions - are the following assumptions correct?

1. 0W40, 5W40, and 10W40 all provide the same level of high temp "protection". So switching to 5W40 or 10W40 or 15W40 will do nothing for my engine if I'm concerned about cSt viscosity.

2. 0W40 is a "better" cold oil than 10W40 (for example in colder climates like MN).

3. Since my car was serviced at only Porsche dealers (two different ones, MN and WI), their choice of 0W40 since 2002 to today (across three different 3.6 engines) is Porsche approved and recommended. Even though the manual doesn't list it as a recommended oil (see below).

4. By switching to 5W50, I would have a higher temp (but lower cold weather) "protection".

I know there are many sources that go into technical details but thought I'd start here to make sure my basic understanding is correct.
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Last edited by kt; 08-14-2011 at 04:36 PM.
Old 08-14-2011, 04:53 PM
  #17  
dennis hiip
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
This is one of the most important aspects of an oil analysis.. It helps determine how much life is left in the oil so you know IF you need to REDUCE the oil service intervals. Without this number it is possible to have already over extended the oil service in your engine and not even know it. Closely watching TBN values is what we have used to develop engine oils. This value is also what proved to us that tothe M96 engine needs oil service every 5,000 miles or 4 months (at least in our climate) for the oil remain effective.

M96 engines see a lot of fuel intrusion compared to others, the OPs oil sample had 2% fuel intrusion. Due to the fact that fuel is solvent and not a lubricant this fuel can take a tremendous amount of life out of the oil and this will impact the TBN.

Without TBN you may see wear metals, but you can't grade the oil and help figure out if oil services need to be shortened or can be extended. Having developed oil packages from scratch with Lake Speed Joe Gibbs Racing oils I can say that TBN has historically been the main focus of our discussions and our trial and error development of M96 oil.

TBN is also very useful when comparing anti-wear packages between oils.

TAN is also important. It surprises me that they don't include this info. We don't use Blackstone for analysis, we use the lab at Lubrizol, the company that makes the additive packages for Joe Gibbs.
Yikes! gotta change oil. I thought it was 12 months
Old 08-14-2011, 05:29 PM
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geetee
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Yep. I think oil changes are a cheap yet effective insurance...takes 30 min or so and can be done for around 75 bucks...you really can't beat that....3-4 times a year or 3-5k miles...
Old 08-14-2011, 05:32 PM
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geetee
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I know this isn't scientific but has anyone noticed how dark the oil gets? Other cars....that hold 5qt's or so after running 7-8k miles for 4 month peroid...the oil is somewhat dark but my 996 with 4k miles and 8-9qt oil capacity and same 4 month period is pitch black...geez...
Old 08-14-2011, 06:06 PM
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Flat6 Innovations
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Originally Posted by geetee
I know this isn't scientific but has anyone noticed how dark the oil gets? Other cars....that hold 5qt's or so after running 7-8k miles for 4 month peroid...the oil is somewhat dark but my 996 with 4k miles and 8-9qt oil capacity and same 4 month period is pitch black...geez...
This is because of poor ring seal.. Combustion byproducts..
And because the engines start so bloody rich and enrich way more than necessary.
Old 08-14-2011, 06:13 PM
  #21  
geetee
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
This is because of poor ring seal.. Combustion byproducts..
And because the engines start so bloody rich and enrich way more than necessary.
Interesting.....prev. leakdown shows 8% 6 9 10 8 5%....noted as cyl#4 rings....
this possibly contributing?
Old 08-14-2011, 06:17 PM
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Yes, it can't help.. No leak down test can equal the cylinder pressure found in the combustion chamber while the engine is cycling.
Old 08-17-2011, 01:49 PM
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kt
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
This is one of the most important aspects of an oil analysis.. It helps determine how much life is left in the oil so you know IF you need to REDUCE the oil service intervals. Without this number it is possible to have already over extended the oil service in your engine and not even know it. Closely watching TBN values is what we have used to develop engine oils. This value is also what proved to us that the M96 engine needs oil service every 5,000 miles or 4 months (at least in our climate) for the oil to remain effective.

M96 engines see a lot of fuel intrusion compared to others, the OPs oil sample had 2% fuel intrusion. Due to the fact that fuel is solvent and not a lubricant this fuel can take a tremendous amount of life out of the oil and this will impact the TBN.

Without TBN you may see wear metals, but you can't grade the oil and help figure out if oil services need to be shortened or can be extended. Having developed oil packages from scratch with Lake Speed Joe Gibbs Racing oils I can say that TBN has historically been the main focus of our discussions and our trial and error development of M96 oil.

TBN is also very useful when comparing anti-wear packages between oils.

TAN is also important. It surprises me that they don't include this info. We don't use Blackstone for analysis, we use the lab at Lubrizol, the company that makes the additive packages for Joe Gibbs.
Had the lab go back and do a TBN and TAN (they still have my original oil sample).

"Amended report to correct engine and add TBN/TAN. It looks like this is just the second oil change for your 911, so this Porsche is still finishing its break-in period and these numbers are not unusual. Copper is often the last metal to come down after wear-in, and it should continue to drop each oil change until it gets down towards our averages, which are based on ~3,400 miles oil use in this type of engine. The slightly low viscosity isn't a problem. The TBN was strong at 6.2 showing lots of active additive; less than 1.0 is too low. The TAN was 5.0 showing some acidity."

And in a follow up email to my question "Reading the results, is there any reason why I should change to a 5W50 oil?":

"Switching to 5W/50 shouldn't hurt anything, but I don't know that there's any obvious reason to do it. That copper should improve on it's own next time and we typically don't see much difference in wear between the various viscosities. You're 0W/40 should do a fine job. "

Thoughts? Comments?
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:07 PM
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soverystout
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What's youre reasoning for switching to 5w-50? Do you want to stick with Mobil 1?

Looking at the Porsche approved oils list (I know, I know, your don't have to use an oil on this list if you don't want to) Mobil 1 5W-50 is the only 5W-50 on the list.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/P...oved_Oils.html

I don't think moving to that oil will help or hurt. I do think that using oil weights recommended in a 8 to 11 year old owners manual may not be the best idea.

I'm gonna try Motul 8100 x-cess 5w-40 for my next oil change this weekend.

The switch ito Motul s mainly because Castrol can't get there sh*t together and Syntec 5w-40 (or edge syntec or whatever) has disappeared from every auto parts store in my region. I heard something about them having to recertify the oil with the various approving manufacturers.
Old 08-18-2011, 01:13 AM
  #25  
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if you want ultimate engine protection use the MOTUL 5W40 300V... best oil analysis results to date on that stuff with plenty of TBN after 3000 miles and 10 track hours

I'm tempted to use the 15W50 300V from Motul becuase it is "slippery" so this property may make up for the extra heavy weight... comes in handy during track days and will maintain viscosity longer...
Old 08-18-2011, 01:14 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MiamiC70
Here is mine at 45,000 miles
what kind of oil do you use here?

your copper and iron levels are higher than average...
Old 08-18-2011, 12:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by soverystout
What's youre reasoning for switching to 5w-50? Do you want to stick with Mobil 1?

Looking at the Porsche approved oils list (I know, I know, your don't have to use an oil on this list if you don't want to) Mobil 1 5W-50 is the only 5W-50 on the list.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/P...oved_Oils.html

I don't think moving to that oil will help or hurt. I do think that using oil weights recommended in a 8 to 11 year old owners manual may not be the best idea.

I'm gonna try Motul 8100 x-cess 5w-40 for my next oil change this weekend.

The switch ito Motul s mainly because Castrol can't get there sh*t together and Syntec 5w-40 (or edge syntec or whatever) has disappeared from every auto parts store in my region. I heard something about them having to recertify the oil with the various approving manufacturers.
I just scooped up 20 qts of Castol 5w-40 for about $100 after rebates at Advance. They still have more of the old stuff, but this will get me through 12k miles since I still have 2k miles to go on current oil which will take me through next summer.



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