logray

If you want to get at the wires you can generally do so from the engine bay. Remove the air box. Then you can reach your hand in on the passenger side of the engine toward the rear of the engine (front of car). Good luck replacing those terminals with the motor in car without lowering the engine a bit.

To replace the entire sender with the engine in car, it's easiest to remove the bumper, passenger side heat shield and muffler. From there it is dead easy to get a stubby wrench up to where it sits atop the camshaft cover.

It simply screws into the cam cover on 4-6 cylinder head. New ones come with a new washer. There are two connections for wires for the instrument cluster. Almost as easy as installing a light bulb.

If you don't want to remove the bumper or heat shield, you can just remove the muffler. From there you can probably get to it using a crows foot on a long extension.

The oil pressure sender is in this picture, in the lower right hand side, the round cylindrical thing with two wires poking out the top.

Mister Quickie

The part came in. Olympus didn't have any crows foot sets and NAPA only had a set where the ends curve around and would have to be sawed off in order to slide in straight.

So I bought at 19mm wrench.

The only questions remaining now are:

Do I need to be cognizant of torque settings? The workshop manuals downloaded from the url in this thread do not address "oil pressure sender" at all.

Do I need to use thread sealant and if so, which kind?

Pac996

I've driven some deep rains and found letting things dry out helps extrememly. A toyota I had loved to conk out the a/c going though 6-12" water. I'd reset till dry and see what happens. Cars and the fancy sensors don't go good with shorts and sensors with water in them.

logray

I hand tightened mine until it was good and snug. At that point it was oriented exactly the same as the old one (meaning the wires were in the correct positions). I didn't want to risk another complete 360 turn as it would have certainly damaged the threads.

I believe the threads might be pre-sealed, and if they aren't the new crush washer that is on there should do the trick. No leaks on mine...