Help Plz - Starter Not Engaging?
#1
Help Plz - Starter Not Engaging?
Hey guys, I have a problem hoping you can give me a hand with.
I've been driving in stop and go traffic most of the day with the AC blowing 100%. Coolant temp is within normal range. It's 103F outside today. I run into a store to grab some things, maybe 15 minutes. Go to start the car, and the starter isn't engaging. I turned off the AC, stereo, all other 12V accessories. I assure the clutch is depressed fully, and try again. Nothing. Ignition switch was replaced 6 months ago. It feels fine. Could the starter solenoid be bad? Or starter relay?
Any ideas on what I should try? I'm going to let the car cool down (well, as much as it can on a day like this) for a few hours and give it another attempt. I'll read the DME w/ Durametric then too.
I've been driving in stop and go traffic most of the day with the AC blowing 100%. Coolant temp is within normal range. It's 103F outside today. I run into a store to grab some things, maybe 15 minutes. Go to start the car, and the starter isn't engaging. I turned off the AC, stereo, all other 12V accessories. I assure the clutch is depressed fully, and try again. Nothing. Ignition switch was replaced 6 months ago. It feels fine. Could the starter solenoid be bad? Or starter relay?
Any ideas on what I should try? I'm going to let the car cool down (well, as much as it can on a day like this) for a few hours and give it another attempt. I'll read the DME w/ Durametric then too.
#2
Nothing as Crickets? Clutch switch may have failed with all of the action from traffic driving.
Or spins slowly but won't engage flywheel? What is the battery voltage? You might have run battery down with all of the accessories running in stop & go traffic all day.
Or spins slowly but won't engage flywheel? What is the battery voltage? You might have run battery down with all of the accessories running in stop & go traffic all day.
#3
Hey guys, I have a problem hoping you can give me a hand with.
I've been driving in stop and go traffic most of the day with the AC blowing 100%. Coolant temp is within normal range. It's 103F outside today. I run into a store to grab some things, maybe 15 minutes. Go to start the car, and the starter isn't engaging. I turned off the AC, stereo, all other 12V accessories. I assure the clutch is depressed fully, and try again. Nothing. Ignition switch was replaced 6 months ago. It feels fine. Could the starter solenoid be bad? Or starter relay?
Any ideas on what I should try? I'm going to let the car cool down (well, as much as it can on a day like this) for a few hours and give it another attempt. I'll read the DME w/ Durametric then too.
I've been driving in stop and go traffic most of the day with the AC blowing 100%. Coolant temp is within normal range. It's 103F outside today. I run into a store to grab some things, maybe 15 minutes. Go to start the car, and the starter isn't engaging. I turned off the AC, stereo, all other 12V accessories. I assure the clutch is depressed fully, and try again. Nothing. Ignition switch was replaced 6 months ago. It feels fine. Could the starter solenoid be bad? Or starter relay?
Any ideas on what I should try? I'm going to let the car cool down (well, as much as it can on a day like this) for a few hours and give it another attempt. I'll read the DME w/ Durametric then too.
Or the bracket that holds the clutch interlock switch is a bit out of position and the clutch depressed doesn't quite every time allow for the clutch interlock switch to close quite enough.
Try depressing and releasing the clutch several times in rapid sucession or reaching down and working the clutch interlock switch lever to free up what might be a sticky clutch interlock switch.
If (when) the engine starts make your first priority to get a new clutch interlock switch.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#4
If it's not the ignition switch, read here about a hot car and the battery cable going bad between starter, generator, and positive terminal in the engine bay.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...ltage-problems
I wonder if a bad (when hot) flywheel speed sensor or cam position sensor would cause this problem too (read about a few of those).
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...ltage-problems
I wonder if a bad (when hot) flywheel speed sensor or cam position sensor would cause this problem too (read about a few of those).
#5
I have replaced my clutch interlock switch twice, but problem shows up in freezing temps. For me, slamming the clutch pedal to the floor as hard as I could allowed the switch to make contact and start the car.
Dealer says this is a known issue and considered as normal "wear". Hope it as simple as this for you.
Dealer says this is a known issue and considered as normal "wear". Hope it as simple as this for you.
#6
Thanks for all of the advice. I'll inspect the clutch interlock switch tomorrow. Tried to jump start the car tonight without success. Ended up towing it back home with a 15' tow rope and my pickup truck. I knew I bought a tow hook a few years ago for a reason!
#7
Update on today's progress (still no starter movement):
1. Charged the battery and verified voltage.
2. Verified the black plunger from the red clutch pedal switch (from research is related to cruise control) is full extended (when the clutch is full depressed).
3. From the other clutch switch, removed two ends jumpered them with a piece of wire. (Read a thread somewhere a guy just soldered them together so a fully depressed clutch was no longer necessary.)
4. Thinking the RFID chip in the key fob was bad, used the valet key.
5. From relay support #2 (on my cab, underneath the cover), swapped the relays from positions 7 and 8.
Tomorrow I'll try to get to the starter solenoid and measure voltage. Also will check out the various cables as you suggested, logray.
Read a lot about how key fobs, immobilizers, DMEs... I won't go there yet.
1. Charged the battery and verified voltage.
2. Verified the black plunger from the red clutch pedal switch (from research is related to cruise control) is full extended (when the clutch is full depressed).
3. From the other clutch switch, removed two ends jumpered them with a piece of wire. (Read a thread somewhere a guy just soldered them together so a fully depressed clutch was no longer necessary.)
4. Thinking the RFID chip in the key fob was bad, used the valet key.
5. From relay support #2 (on my cab, underneath the cover), swapped the relays from positions 7 and 8.
Tomorrow I'll try to get to the starter solenoid and measure voltage. Also will check out the various cables as you suggested, logray.
Read a lot about how key fobs, immobilizers, DMEs... I won't go there yet.
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#10
Update on today's progress (still no starter movement):
1. Charged the battery and verified voltage.
2. Verified the black plunger from the red clutch pedal switch (from research is related to cruise control) is full extended (when the clutch is full depressed).
3. From the other clutch switch, removed two ends jumpered them with a piece of wire. (Read a thread somewhere a guy just soldered them together so a fully depressed clutch was no longer necessary.)
4. Thinking the RFID chip in the key fob was bad, used the valet key.
5. From relay support #2 (on my cab, underneath the cover), swapped the relays from positions 7 and 8.
Tomorrow I'll try to get to the starter solenoid and measure voltage. Also will check out the various cables as you suggested, logray.
Read a lot about how key fobs, immobilizers, DMEs... I won't go there yet.
1. Charged the battery and verified voltage.
2. Verified the black plunger from the red clutch pedal switch (from research is related to cruise control) is full extended (when the clutch is full depressed).
3. From the other clutch switch, removed two ends jumpered them with a piece of wire. (Read a thread somewhere a guy just soldered them together so a fully depressed clutch was no longer necessary.)
4. Thinking the RFID chip in the key fob was bad, used the valet key.
5. From relay support #2 (on my cab, underneath the cover), swapped the relays from positions 7 and 8.
Tomorrow I'll try to get to the starter solenoid and measure voltage. Also will check out the various cables as you suggested, logray.
Read a lot about how key fobs, immobilizers, DMEs... I won't go there yet.
#12
Durametric shows only open circuit stage 2 fan. Good idea on rolling start, pop-clutch. If it runs, can I rule out a problem with the immobilizer?
All fuses good.
Sorry, I wasn't clear on that. To rule out a problem with part 16, I took the leads off of the switch and stuck a wire in between them. Part 17 is for cruise control. It is red in color.
All fuses good.
Sorry, I wasn't clear on that. To rule out a problem with part 16, I took the leads off of the switch and stuck a wire in between them. Part 17 is for cruise control. It is red in color.
#13
Bump start would rule out a lot of stuff. More than just the immo. Just poke it down a hill about 5 mph pop the clutch out while in 2nd with the ignition already on. Be ready to press the clutch pedal in once it fires or if it doesn't.
Does the car start fine when it is cold?
What is the condition of the battery?
Does the car start fine when it is cold?
What is the condition of the battery?
#14
Update on today's progress (still no starter movement):
1. Charged the battery and verified voltage.
2. Verified the black plunger from the red clutch pedal switch (from research is related to cruise control) is full extended (when the clutch is full depressed).
3. From the other clutch switch, removed two ends jumpered them with a piece of wire. (Read a thread somewhere a guy just soldered them together so a fully depressed clutch was no longer necessary.)
4. Thinking the RFID chip in the key fob was bad, used the valet key.
5. From relay support #2 (on my cab, underneath the cover), swapped the relays from positions 7 and 8.
Tomorrow I'll try to get to the starter solenoid and measure voltage. Also will check out the various cables as you suggested, logray.
Read a lot about how key fobs, immobilizers, DMEs... I won't go there yet.
1. Charged the battery and verified voltage.
2. Verified the black plunger from the red clutch pedal switch (from research is related to cruise control) is full extended (when the clutch is full depressed).
3. From the other clutch switch, removed two ends jumpered them with a piece of wire. (Read a thread somewhere a guy just soldered them together so a fully depressed clutch was no longer necessary.)
4. Thinking the RFID chip in the key fob was bad, used the valet key.
5. From relay support #2 (on my cab, underneath the cover), swapped the relays from positions 7 and 8.
Tomorrow I'll try to get to the starter solenoid and measure voltage. Also will check out the various cables as you suggested, logray.
Read a lot about how key fobs, immobilizers, DMEs... I won't go there yet.
The switch that prevents the engine from cranking if the clutch is not fully depressed iis a different switch and is located somewhere behind the clutch linkage but not on the floor. You have to look up high. I have no pics but it is a hard switch to see and get to. I have to almost stand on my head to get at out. Techs get to it by raising the car on a lift to bring the switch at a more easily accessible height.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#15
The two wires shown in the post above are from switch #16. That IS the clutch switch, isn't it? (It just so happens the red switch (cruise control) is in the photo.)