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Old 08-04-2011, 04:30 PM
  #16  
Macster
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Originally Posted by Doug996InKC
The two wires shown in the post above are from switch #16. That IS the clutch switch, isn't it? (It just so happens the red switch (cruise control) is in the photo.)
Yes, #16 is the clutch interlock switch.

Sincerely,

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Old 08-04-2011, 04:42 PM
  #17  
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That's a lot of wire to simply short something. I hope the electrical contacts/wiring is ok?

It is very important when one starts fussing around with the wiring/switches that he is 100% sure what he has done is right or it can lead to false conclusions and send one off on a wild goose chase.

I would not attempt a bump start. The engine should crank using the starter and fire right up. If it doesn't a bump start attempt is just a chance to do damage to the car.

The RFID pill might be bad but in all keys?

The car immobilizer then might be bad that is when you insert the key in the ignition switch this does not result in the immobilizer transmitting an RF signal which the RFID pill in the key head receives and uses this as a trigger to respond with its ID via an return RF signal.

Not sure how to eliminate this possibility without some fancy equipment, PST2 or PIWIS or something a bit more electronically exotic (RF scope).

Remember if the ignition switch is suspect this may result in the immobilizer not receiving any signal to emit the RFID query transmission so you must be absolutely certain the ignition switch is ok.

When I watched a tech diagnose my Boxster's similar behavior he inserted the key, wiggled it while he turned it to on/start and mashed the clutch pedal down all the way hard to the floor. Of course the car never manifested the symptom through a few minutes of this and maybe a dozen starts. Everyone a picture perfect start.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 08-04-2011, 05:41 PM
  #18  
Doug996InKC
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Originally Posted by Macster
That's a lot of wire to simply short something. I hope the electrical contacts/wiring is ok?
Good point. I pulled the switch from my father's 1999 996, refastened the ends, but still no luck.

Originally Posted by Macster
The RFID pill might be bad but in all keys?
Does the valet key have such RFID pill too?

Originally Posted by Macster
The car immobilizer then might be bad that is when you insert the key in the ignition switch this does not result in the immobilizer transmitting an RF signal which the RFID pill in the key head receives and uses this as a trigger to respond with its ID via an return RF signal.
I hope not... but will leave that as a last resort.

Originally Posted by Macster
Remember if the ignition switch is suspect this may result in the immobilizer not receiving any signal to emit the RFID query transmission so you must be absolutely certain the ignition switch is ok.
Agreed. Definitely worth the $8 to change it out again.

Thanks again for your feedback. That goes for the rest of you too!

Okay... dumb question perhaps... how do I get to the starter solenoid? Remove throttle body?
Old 08-04-2011, 06:13 PM
  #19  
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"Okay... dumb question perhaps... how do I get to the starter solenoid? Remove throttle body? "


And the manifold. Alittle easier of you unbolt the rear motor mounts and drop the engine slightly. BTDT.
Old 08-04-2011, 06:22 PM
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cuttinsod
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Not sure I saw it asked, but when you put in the key and turn it on, do you get lights? Do the gauges fire up?

If so, it may just be a bad starter...have you checked the
Voltage there?
Old 08-04-2011, 06:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Doug996InKC
Good point. I pulled the switch from my father's 1999 996, refastened the ends, but still no luck.

Does the valet key have such RFID pill too?

I hope not... but will leave that as a last resort.

Agreed. Definitely worth the $8 to change it out again.

Thanks again for your feedback. That goes for the rest of you too!

Okay... dumb question perhaps... how do I get to the starter solenoid? Remove throttle body?
If a key will start the engine it has to have a RFID pill in it.

IIRC -- I'm pretty sure I tested this but it has been a long time ago -- the valet keys for my cars start the engines. Of course the heads of the keys are not separateable but since there is no battery to wear out this is not a problem. The RFID receives the energy it needs from the immobilizer's RF signal. A very bit of clever engineering that.

I did a bit of testing an dthe RFID pill does not work even if I hold it in the palm of a hand and turn the key with the other hand. I was thinking that a bad key with a non-functioning RFID might be 'masked' by the fact I carry a spare key (and the valet key too on a key chain in my jacket's inner pocket) but I removed the jacket and there was just the one key and its RFID pill in my hand and the engine would not crank which is the behavior that is expected if the RFID pill doesn't get is ID to the immobilizer because it doesn't receive sufficient energy from the immobilizer's RF transmission. It just occurred to me that perhaps the cavity that holds the RFID pill might be designed to focus the RF energy too.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 08-04-2011, 11:30 PM
  #22  
Doug996InKC
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Originally Posted by Macster
The RFID receives the energy it needs from the immobilizer's RF signal. A very bit of clever engineering that.

I did a bit of testing and the RFID pill does not work even if I hold it in the palm of a hand and turn the key with the other hand. I was thinking that a bad key with a non-functioning RFID might be 'masked' by the fact I carry a spare key (and the valet key too on a key chain in my jacket's inner pocket) but I removed the jacket and there was just the one key and its RFID pill in my hand and the engine would not crank which is the behavior that is expected if the RFID pill doesn't get is ID to the immobilizer because it doesn't receive sufficient energy from the immobilizer's RF transmission. It just occurred to me that perhaps the cavity that holds the RFID pill might be designed to focus the RF energy too.
Your experiments are much appreciated! I spoke with a Porsche service mgr. in KC. In all his years, he's never experienced a key with a failed RFID chip.

Originally Posted by cuttinsod
Not sure I saw it asked, but when you put in the key and turn it on, do you get lights? Do the gauges fire up?
Yes, lights can be turned on, gauges are lighting up.

Originally Posted by cuttinsod
If so, it may just be a bad starter...have you checked the Voltage there?
Yes. See photo below. Good constant voltage on the left lead. Key is NOT in ignition. When an assistant turns the key to attempt start: same voltage to left lead, zero voltage to right lead, and zero to top lead.

Originally Posted by 15psi
And the manifold. A little easier of you unbolt the rear motor mounts and drop the engine slightly.
Thanks. Wasn't too bad. Didn't drop engine any.

Thanks everyone! I love a good challenge! Tomorrow I'm changing out the ignition switch. If that doesn't solve the issue, I'll see if a guru in town would like to make a house call.
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Macster
Remember if the ignition switch is suspect this may result in the immobilizer not receiving any signal to emit the RFID query transmission so you must be absolutely certain the ignition switch is ok.
You're right! I replaced the ignition switch and the starter turned on. From now on, I'm going to carry a replacement in the car. As I mentioned in my first post, the old switch was only about 6 months old.
Old 08-10-2011, 06:50 AM
  #24  
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Good job...!
Old 11-16-2012, 11:47 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Doug996InKC
You're right! I replaced the ignition switch and the starter turned on. From now on, I'm going to carry a replacement in the car. As I mentioned in my first post, the old switch was only about 6 months old.
Did the ignition switch feel funny when you replaced it again or just like when you put it in? I replaced mine about three month ago and I have replaced the starter, the clutch switch and the battery. No luck so far.
Old 11-19-2012, 08:16 PM
  #26  
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I replaced the ignition switch I installed about three Month ago and all is well. Even the airbag light is gone.
Old 11-19-2012, 11:44 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by divinabuddy
Did the ignition switch feel funny when you replaced it again or just like when you put it in?
It didn't feel any different than when I put it in six months prior. I read somewhere that extra wait on the keychain can cause a premature failure of the switch. I'm living with that advice (trouble-free since my last post), and I believe the extra weight was to blame. Just in case, I keep a small screwdriver and a spare switch in the car.

Glad yours was just the switch too!



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