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Old 07-18-2011, 08:36 PM
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jdog
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Default So...what do you think?

I don't know enough about Oil Analysis to have an opinion on what the researcher says about the copper level in this sample.
I also hope that you can see this clearly as I don't have a scanner here at home.
Thanks

Last edited by jdog; 05-31-2012 at 09:52 PM.
Old 07-19-2011, 12:27 AM
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Macster
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Copper is a bearing material. The ppm appears high but I can't say for sure. Usually the report has a range of what's generally acceptable or what other vehicles have had. But 66 ppm does seem uncomfortably high to me.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 07-19-2011, 12:51 AM
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I think the diagnosis section in the lower left is interesting. I assume no visible particles in the oil filter?
Old 07-19-2011, 08:09 AM
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jdog
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Originally Posted by j beede
I think the diagnosis section in the lower left is interesting. I assume no visible particles in the oil filter?
When I first saw this I was worried that I would be looking at the very least a need to drop the pan. However then it dawned on me that I have no comparison here. There isn't that range to tell me how high 66ppm really is. I know there will be signs bearing wear in the sample that's a given, but since the filter and oil were perfectly clear without particles I am not too worried. I have just diagnosed a small leak from the Cam solenoid cover after putting in dye so I will likely cure this leak and then do another oil change and send in for another analysis.
This test was from the oil that was in the car when I bought it. I bought the car in April 2011 and the most recent change before I purchased was July 2010.
We will see what a second analysis brings.
Old 07-19-2011, 09:44 AM
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fpena944
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The oil in the car was 10w-40?
Old 07-19-2011, 09:56 AM
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soverystout
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Originally Posted by fpena944
The oil in the car was 10w-40?
That was my first question. 10W-40 is not an approved weight for any Porsche engine on the A40 approval list. This may be a potential cause for increased bearing wear, especially in colder climates.

There is reason for concern IMO. My first used oil analysis for my 03 996, while not an apples to apples comparison to yours, the copper level was 7ppm with a universal average (from blackstone labs) of 11ppm for these engines with an oil sample with 3400 miles on it.

To help you compare:
I used Castrol syntec 5w-40
Added 1 quart during the period the oil was in the car.
my engine is the original engine with 40,930miles on it at the time of sample.
2003 c2 coupe with 6speed.
3,730 miles on the oil.

Also, Blackstone shows their universal average (for oil with 3400 miles on it in a M96 engine) for Iron at 11ppm, you report shows 58 ppm.

Last edited by soverystout; 07-19-2011 at 01:09 PM.
Old 07-19-2011, 08:01 PM
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jdog
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Originally Posted by soverystout
That was my first question. 10W-40 is not an approved weight for any Porsche engine on the A40 approval list. This may be a potential cause for increased bearing wear, especially in colder climates.

There is reason for concern IMO. My first used oil analysis for my 03 996, while not an apples to apples comparison to yours, the copper level was 7ppm with a universal average (from blackstone labs) of 11ppm for these engines with an oil sample with 3400 miles on it.

To help you compare:
I used Castrol syntec 5w-40
Added 1 quart during the period the oil was in the car.
my engine is the original engine with 40,930miles on it at the time of sample.
2003 c2 coupe with 6speed.
3,730 miles on the oil.

Also, Blackstone shows their universal average (for oil with 3400 miles on it in a M96 engine) for Iron at 11ppm, you report shows 58 ppm.
I actually have no idea that is was 100% 10w40. It says that on the receipt that I got from the PO,but I don't know if the description is correct. They may have meant to type 0w40 which would make more sense. Believe me I am concerned about this. This car is in showroom off the floor condition and still smells new so I am a little nervous about the coming months. The good thing is that I do not track this car nor do I drive my cars real hard. Don't get me wrong I ENJOY my cars throughly. I am very picky when it comes to maint. so that should also play in my favor.
I will just drive it to enjoy it and see what tomorrow brings. What else can I do apart from stripping down an engine that I don't know has a problem?
Speaking of which, how easy is it to swap out rod bearings?
Old 07-19-2011, 09:18 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by jdog
I actually have no idea that is was 100% 10w40. It says that on the receipt that I got from the PO,but I don't know if the description is correct. They may have meant to type 0w40 which would make more sense. Believe me I am concerned about this. This car is in showroom off the floor condition and still smells new so I am a little nervous about the coming months. The good thing is that I do not track this car nor do I drive my cars real hard. Don't get me wrong I ENJOY my cars throughly. I am very picky when it comes to maint. so that should also play in my favor.
I will just drive it to enjoy it and see what tomorrow brings. What else can I do apart from stripping down an engine that I don't know has a problem?
Speaking of which, how easy is it to swap out rod bearings?
Before you worry about rebuilding the engine I'd recommend you change the oil/filter and refill the engine using an approved oil.

Drive the car a while. Maybe 500 miles. Have the oil analyzed again. If the readings are still elevated then you can think about rebuilding the engine, maybe.

If the readings are ok, then drive the car some more and maybe in 2000 miles have the oil analyzed again. If the oil ok and it probably would be if the car and engine made it 2K miles, then there was nothing to worry about.

Now I have to say it, if at any time the engine starts making noises shut off the engine ASAP. Chances are high then that the bearing wear was real and the engine has gone from a might under the weather to quite sick. But it can be healed if you shut the engine is shut off in time.

Rod bearing replacement requires the engine be removed from the car and the engine torn down, the cases split and the well, it is a major job.

But if the rod bearings (or main bearings) needed doing you'd know it from the knocking noises from the engine. A possibly elevated reading of copper in an oil analysis is not sufficent grounds to remove/tear down an engine absent any other signs this effort is needed.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 07-20-2011, 11:00 AM
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jdog
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Originally Posted by Macster
Before you worry about rebuilding the engine I'd recommend you change the oil/filter and refill the engine using an approved oil.

Drive the car a while. Maybe 500 miles. Have the oil analyzed again. If the readings are still elevated then you can think about rebuilding the engine, maybe.

If the readings are ok, then drive the car some more and maybe in 2000 miles have the oil analyzed again. If the oil ok and it probably would be if the car and engine made it 2K miles, then there was nothing to worry about.

Now I have to say it, if at any time the engine starts making noises shut off the engine ASAP. Chances are high then that the bearing wear was real and the engine has gone from a might under the weather to quite sick. But it can be healed if you shut the engine is shut off in time.

Rod bearing replacement requires the engine be removed from the car and the engine torn down, the cases split and the well, it is a major job.

But if the rod bearings (or main bearings) needed doing you'd know it from the knocking noises from the engine. A possibly elevated reading of copper in an oil analysis is not sufficent grounds to remove/tear down an engine absent any other signs this effort is needed.

Sincerely,

Macster.
When I first got the car I immediately put in Lubro Moly 5w40. The filter looked fine at that point. No signs of metal flakes whatsoever. I am going to change the oil once again after I complete the two cam solenoid cover seals. Then this will give me a better idea of what is going on.
Thanks for the advice.



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