Help! Stripped screw....
07-15-2011, 07:21 PM
#1
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Help! Stripped screw....
Was in the process of removing the door latch mechanism to fix a broken microswitch but the bolt that holds the latch in is stuck in there and I have stripped the screw head. So I go to Lowes and buy a screw extractor drill it in and try extracting it but the extractor head breaks off inside the screw. Any advice?!
07-15-2011, 08:54 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Try gently using a center punch to work the metal around the broken extractor and the extractor itself. The extractor is very hard and you may be able to break pcs off pick them out and loosen it in the hole. Otherwise EDM is the preferred way.
07-15-2011, 09:49 PM
#5
Drill into the center of the screw/extractor. Once the hole is big enough, use a Dremel Tungsten Carbide Cutter to clean out (most of) the remains of the screw. Then using the right size combination of drill bit and tap, drill out the hole then re-tap.
07-15-2011, 10:54 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
After you get the extractor out, drill the center of the screw with successively larger bits until you get to the root diameter of the screw threads. Then using a pick you can pull the rest of the screw thread out and cleanup the threads with a thread chaser or tap.
07-16-2011, 01:35 AM
#7
All I'm going to say is some companies sell some cheap stuff that just gets us deeper into trouble. Extractors that break, carbide drill bits that snap and advertised as super heavy duty bits that snap before even a wobble.
Best of luck getting it out.
Carbide bits are more brittle than regular and are hard to find. Sure there are some companies that make the label look like its a carbide bit but its just a spray on carbide or some fool thing. A real carbide bit should allow you to drill twisting the bit in your fingers against the metal. Like I said beware because they snap easy and are harder to drill out than a lame self tapping bolt extractor. Been there, done that.
Besides a punch tapping to reverse thread a bolt there is also cold chisels. But watch out for chisel cutting away at the bolt. It's a discusting situation and believe me you aren't the first to feel more discusted getting ripped by what should be a good extractor tool.
Best of luck getting it out.
Carbide bits are more brittle than regular and are hard to find. Sure there are some companies that make the label look like its a carbide bit but its just a spray on carbide or some fool thing. A real carbide bit should allow you to drill twisting the bit in your fingers against the metal. Like I said beware because they snap easy and are harder to drill out than a lame self tapping bolt extractor. Been there, done that.
Besides a punch tapping to reverse thread a bolt there is also cold chisels. But watch out for chisel cutting away at the bolt. It's a discusting situation and believe me you aren't the first to feel more discusted getting ripped by what should be a good extractor tool.
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07-16-2011, 02:24 AM
#8
Did you use it properly? (drill pilot hole with a separate drill bit and slowly turn the extractor with a adjustable wrench or handle?) I dont see how you can snap an extractor unless you were using a high powered drill or just putting much elbow grease into it.... you could always just drill completely through the snapped bolt as well.
As for your piece stuck in the screw head. try a scribe and pick it out if possible (depends how deep its in there) we always have people break apex bits in screw heads and they are a b**ch to get out.
As for your piece stuck in the screw head. try a scribe and pick it out if possible (depends how deep its in there) we always have people break apex bits in screw heads and they are a b**ch to get out.
07-16-2011, 10:45 AM
#9
I had exactly this problem last weekend even when using the correct bit. I use a bolt extractor kit from craftsman that grabs the outside edges of the screw. Worked like a charm. No drilling or tapping required.
07-16-2011, 11:15 AM
#10
Does enough of the head remain to allow you to use a Dremel with a carborundum cutting wheel to cut a slot in the head? Then use an impact driver with a flat head bit to back the screw out?
Extractors are usually made of such hard steel that drilling them out is not practical. I have not had good results using the diamond dust bits from Harbor Freight.
Extractors are usually made of such hard steel that drilling them out is not practical. I have not had good results using the diamond dust bits from Harbor Freight.
07-16-2011, 11:23 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Getting the "pilot hole" started is a pain in the ***, can sometimes be done with the dremel or a quality HSS bit. If you can affix a drill press it will increase your chances of success. If using a hand drill, low to mid speed with a lot of force. Don't use the highest speed, you could end up heating up and hardening the metal making it more difficult if you do that too many times and incorrectly.
Important that you need to work with the Dremel at LOW or MEDIUM LOW speed. Those tungsten carbide bits will go through just about anything given time.
If you can remove the part and take it to a machine shop, that is sometimes the easiest and least expensive route - instead of burning through tons of expensive bits. But it doesn't sound like that is an option for you here.
Lastly, you might find that you've destroyed the original threads and will need to Permacoil, Helicoil, or Timesert it.
