Refinishing headlights.. grr..
#1
Refinishing headlights.. grr..
So I decided to start another project... I began refinishing one of my headlights and they just aren't the same clarity as before. Here are the steps I've used so far. BTW, I've tried the headlight restoration kits and it does nothing against the UV layer so I decided to use my own sandpaper combo.
- 400 grit (sand off UV protective layer)
- 800 grit (wetsand)
- 1000 grit (wetsand)
- 1500 grit (wetsand)
- 2000 grit (wetsand)
- Meguier's Plastx Polish with foam pad and power drill
My headlight still looks hazy and it seems to need a high-power buffer/polish to bring the gloss back. OR will the UV sealant spray get it to the next level of shine that I'm looking for?
- 400 grit (sand off UV protective layer)
- 800 grit (wetsand)
- 1000 grit (wetsand)
- 1500 grit (wetsand)
- 2000 grit (wetsand)
- Meguier's Plastx Polish with foam pad and power drill
My headlight still looks hazy and it seems to need a high-power buffer/polish to bring the gloss back. OR will the UV sealant spray get it to the next level of shine that I'm looking for?
Last edited by RPMulli; 07-02-2011 at 03:25 PM.
#2
Pro
Just did mine also. Finish off with 3000 grit wet sanded, then a polishing compound to achieve that final clarity you're looking for. Apply the UV sealant every other car wash or so.
I agree the kits are worthless for all but the mildest haze.
I agree the kits are worthless for all but the mildest haze.
#4
What type of compound did you use?
#5
Pro
The kit came with a packet of 3M polishing compound that I used with my rotary buffer, but you can buy it at any auto part store. I ordered the Diamondite 3 part system that I'll try for regular maintenance to keep them clear. Never used it so I don't know how well it works.
BTW the 3000 grit is composed of a foam pad with the grit surface adhered to it. It's green. It doesn't look like sandpaper.
Also, the lenses never really cleared up after I polished them with the compound until I polished them again with cleaner wax and then regular wax. That's the key - keep buffing with compound and wax until they are perfectly clear.
BTW the 3000 grit is composed of a foam pad with the grit surface adhered to it. It's green. It doesn't look like sandpaper.
Also, the lenses never really cleared up after I polished them with the compound until I polished them again with cleaner wax and then regular wax. That's the key - keep buffing with compound and wax until they are perfectly clear.
#6
Race Car
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You can visit the concours forum under "Perf. & Comp." to see some some threads where pro detailers polish headlights and tail lights. They will use a light polish on them with a rotary buffer just to make them look shinier.
#7
Didn't even think to look there. I'll check it out. Thanks.
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#8
Racer
make sure you get through the factory hard coat otherwise it will just stay hazy. I noticed by spraying water on the lens while wetsanding you can see what it would look like polished or coated. I took it to a shop in Anaheim and watched them do it. It was cheap. $75 and he put a hardcoat that lasts about three years. Make sure they do not clear coat it since clear coat is not made for headlights. there is a special coating that good shops will use.
#9
FWIW, I have used the 3M Lens Restoration product with excellent results...works similar to the approach discussed above. But when finished, I applied plastic overlays (ordered from Performance Products) and now, two years later, everything still looks great. So far, I have used this approach on my 996, her Jag XJ, my M-B CLK 320, and the grandkids' ancient Jeep Cherokee and Dodge Neon.
relinuca
relinuca
#10
I actually found an old 3M kit laying around and it had a 3000 grit disc in it. After using that and then another buff with the PlastX the lens cleared up much better than before.
#11
Intermediate
3m kit worked for me very well. im looking into films like this for more long term protection as the protectant that comes with the 3m kit is not very good http://catalog.headlamprevamp.com/partquery/search