bobtme

I was driving along today, pushing it here and there, taking some hard corners (not fast) and I heard this notification bell.

When I looked down, in the screen area there was a picture of an old squirt oil can and the words "Failure Notification"

What the heck does that mean ???

Wasn't hot - oil measured fine; any ideas ?

SWK6Cup

you check you oil level?

Quadcammer

oil pressure?

bobtme

Oil pressure fine - oil measured fine

C4CRNA

Year, model, and miles would help

fpb111

Bad contacts on sending unit or failing sending unit.

seanmcr6

my sending unit failed....but when mine did, the oil pressure display dropped to ZERO for a time (when the light first came on) then it came back again.

Zookie

Same its a known issue. Oil Sending Unit, i had that Warning Light come on a few times, had the Unit replaced under CPO, never seen the light since

Lerxst

Just had the same thing pop on my car... oil level and pressure gauge reading fine. This is the oil pressure sender? $72 @ Pelican. How easy is it for a DIY swap?

Flat6 Innovations

What did the oil pressure gauge read?

The AOS can crap out and create vacuum that can kill oil pressure as one of its modes of failure.

The sender could have died, but you need to take this seriously.

Lerxst

-The oil pressure is running about 3.2 bars at idle and increases to max as RPMs rise.
-Oil level is right in the middle of the acceptable range on the digital readout.
-AOS was replaced 2 seasons, ~6K miles ago

In taking this seriously, is it a fairly straight-forward diagnosis, or do I have to take it to the local dealer?

logray

Unless you're proficient, it might be best to take it to a shop.

3.2 sounds way too high at idle, unless you mean cold start idle, in which case that is way too low, it should be 5 bars. It would help if we knew what year and type of oil you are running, as viscosity and ambient temperature can also affect oil pressures.

Could be the sender, could be scavange pump (unlikely), oil pump (unlikely), could be worn internals, there are a lot of could be's on the list and as Jake pointed out the AOS is a common source of failure I read about. But I think the sender is usually the least expensive to deal with.

Too bad it's a major PITA to change with the engine in car.

IIRC the easiest thing to do is remove the passenger muffler, and then you have a chance at getting to it where it sits atop the 4-6 cam cover by hand with a stub wrench or a perhaps a long extension with crows foot.

You can try to go in from the top, but you would probably have to drop the engine down a little to get any tools in there, and possibly remove the intake manifold, at the very most without any of the above you would be able to reach the connectors and clean them with sandpaper and then dielectric grease then re-connect to see if the condition changes.

There are also a TSBs for certain model year cars about changing the oil filling capacities and recalibrating the instrument clusters. (in one case underfill, in another case overfill).

Lerxst

Went for a drive today ('02 w/ Mobile 1 0w40). At startup, at idle, it was at 5 bars. At idle warmed up, it was below 3 bars (I think closer to 2).

I'll go have a look at the TSBs.

Thanks for the information.

logray

5 bars cold idle is good. 2 bars warm is good.

TSB 1716 for 2002 MY.

Lerxst

In Renntech TSB 1716 was "Blue Smoke from the Engine During High Transverse Acceleration"

Interesting read as I've experienced that problem too... scrolled through the TSBs and couldn't find anything on the Oil Pressure Sender.