Engine turns over but will NOT Start
#31
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I checked all the easy stuff and some of the hard. No smoking guns though. I ordered a Durametric and it should be here Wednesday. For now I just unplugged the ABag module and it runs ok. Dave I saw your comment on the max activations. From what I can tell, an activation is an Abag deployment. Other codes like buckle faults etc can be cleared. For now I am still putting parts back on it. We had stripped the wheel well liners, underbody, bumpers, etc to clean out all the road grime. One thing that I noticed is that the low RPM idle is a little rough. My assumption is that the DME is still re-learning the engine. Does anyone know what this learn time is? Is it munites, miles, hours.....
#32
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I checked all the easy stuff and some of the hard. No smoking guns though. I ordered a Durametric and it should be here Wednesday. For now I just unplugged the ABag module and it runs ok. Dave I saw your comment on the max activations. From what I can tell, an activation is an Abag deployment. Other codes like buckle faults etc can be cleared. For now I am still putting parts back on it. We had stripped the wheel well liners, underbody, bumpers, etc to clean out all the road grime. One thing that I noticed is that the low RPM idle is a little rough. My assumption is that the DME is still re-learning the engine. Does anyone know what this learn time is? Is it munites, miles, hours.....
Sometimes I get caught off guard though the next time I start the engine cold for it kind of runs a bit uncharacteristically rough after cold start but always (so far) smooths out in just seconds.
Regardless of when I clear the codes the engine really takes just seconds to recover.
With the engine idling remove the oil filler tube cap and note how long it takes the engine controller to adapt -- as best it can which can be pretty darn good -- then refit the cap and listen to the engine controller adapt again.
When I've done the above, it doesn't take but just seconds for the controller to adapt.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#33
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I checked all the easy stuff and some of the hard. No smoking guns though. I ordered a Durametric and it should be here Wednesday. For now I just unplugged the ABag module and it runs ok. Dave I saw your comment on the max activations. From what I can tell, an activation is an Abag deployment. Other codes like buckle faults etc can be cleared. For now I am still putting parts back on it. We had stripped the wheel well liners, underbody, bumpers, etc to clean out all the road grime. One thing that I noticed is that the low RPM idle is a little rough. My assumption is that the DME is still re-learning the engine. Does anyone know what this learn time is? Is it munites, miles, hours.....
The DME will run smooth on idle, even with a freshly reset battery. I have not experienced a problem with idle after battery pull and DME relearn.
You can even pull your MAF, has nothing to do with idle.
On the AB, my guess is you have more than 3 activations or some other fault that you need to read - or maybe bad AB module, I hope the Durametric will help - it has certainly got me out of some situations.
#34
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm sure it will be nice to read whats up with the engine using the durametric. This could be and should be a quick diagnosis and fix time after getting the reports from the car. Just don't fancy yourself as one of the big garages working on the car and you should have the problem fixed in no time instead of taking weeks and big bucks in multiple parts daily ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You will like that durametric. It's a real charm. Using a laptop figure on having a power inverter so that the laptop is being charged because the durametric software warns that it might not give good reading if the laptop is running on battery power. Other than that, have fun.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You will like that durametric. It's a real charm. Using a laptop figure on having a power inverter so that the laptop is being charged because the durametric software warns that it might not give good reading if the laptop is running on battery power. Other than that, have fun.
#35
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Doubtful rough idle is dme learning .Air leaks highly likely-also the idle control valve can get gummed up and cause unevenness .Does it maintain rpm's and just sound uneven or big rpm flucuations ?Big rpm fluctuations point to the idle control valve (at least in my case).
The Durametric should help on Airbag diagnosis .Unfortunately not a big help on verification of cam timing for a 5.2 dme .It will do bank1 but not bank 2 .Looks like they programmed to non us specs .
Back to idle-a lazy injector can also be a cause there are plenty of additives to help alleviate this .
You are almost done !
Dave
The Durametric should help on Airbag diagnosis .Unfortunately not a big help on verification of cam timing for a 5.2 dme .It will do bank1 but not bank 2 .Looks like they programmed to non us specs .
Back to idle-a lazy injector can also be a cause there are plenty of additives to help alleviate this .
You are almost done !
Dave
#36
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wow. Impressive, methodical comments from all the posters. Nothing like a "go to solution" thread by knowledgeable Rennlisters! My hat is off to you.
#37
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ran the Durametric tonight. No codes at all. And the engine will not run. Blows my mind. Drove into the driveway and shut it down. Now it is back to the original antics and it will turn over but will not start. No CEL at all. When I turn the key I do not hear the initial pressurization of the fuel pump. Does anyone know how to tell if the Immobilizer is activated?
#38
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had something similar with a corrupted DME program. Car would turn over but not start. No other symptoms. No CELs, nothing, just turn and turn and turn but no burn.
Perhaps you nicked or damaged or a wire broke while you were reinstalling the harness in the car. Would be a pain to have to check all the continuity though.
For some reason I still think there is something with the airbag module, since you ran the car fine without it? But not now? Strange.
Do you have a copy of the work shop manual? As much as a pain it is, perhaps go through each of the airbag tests to make sure the wiring is good.
Can the Durametric at least connect to your airbag module? IIRC your PIWIS said it couldn't.
Maybe it's time to submit to the car and take it to the stealer?
Perhaps you nicked or damaged or a wire broke while you were reinstalling the harness in the car. Would be a pain to have to check all the continuity though.
For some reason I still think there is something with the airbag module, since you ran the car fine without it? But not now? Strange.
Do you have a copy of the work shop manual? As much as a pain it is, perhaps go through each of the airbag tests to make sure the wiring is good.
Can the Durametric at least connect to your airbag module? IIRC your PIWIS said it couldn't.
Maybe it's time to submit to the car and take it to the stealer?
#40
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I can get into the AB module and it shows no codes. I even called the Owen at Durametric and made sure that there are no hidden codes. I sent hin a dump of the AB Module memory and he said it was clean. Wiring would be a PITA to check and I was very careful with it. I have a full set of the manuals and have checked most of the AB circuits but since I do not have any AB codes and the AB light is out now I think that it is related to the immobilizer.
Does anyone know if, when the immobilizer is active, will the starter turn the engine over? Mine will but no run. Does the Immobilizer cut the fuel pump and injectors off? DOes it cut the Ignition off? What exactly does it do?
I will also chack the ignition switch since I have read they are flakey.
Does anyone know if, when the immobilizer is active, will the starter turn the engine over? Mine will but no run. Does the Immobilizer cut the fuel pump and injectors off? DOes it cut the Ignition off? What exactly does it do?
I will also chack the ignition switch since I have read they are flakey.
#41
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know you checked this once before, but have you gone back to the pulse sender? The symptoms you describe are the same that I had when mine failed. It could have been intermittent when the car first ran and then failed altogether.
#42
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When I had the corrupt DME program, I was told that the part that was wrong was the immobilizer code portion, which was preventing the car from starting. It was turning over but wouldn't start. I doubt this is your problem though, since I was messing around with the maps.
You might try removing the transponder pill from your key, keep the pill well away from the car - and try to turn it over. This might simulate a situation where the immo would kick in. At least if you get the same symptoms perhaps it is not the immobilizer? Not sure if that logic makes sense though. Not enough coffee yet. Do you have a second key to test the car with?
I was thinking the same thing Doug was last night after my post, I remember reading though a few posts on renntech about the pulse sender.
And there are probably about a couple threads started per week here and there about a faulty ignition switch.
You might try removing the transponder pill from your key, keep the pill well away from the car - and try to turn it over. This might simulate a situation where the immo would kick in. At least if you get the same symptoms perhaps it is not the immobilizer? Not sure if that logic makes sense though. Not enough coffee yet. Do you have a second key to test the car with?
I was thinking the same thing Doug was last night after my post, I remember reading though a few posts on renntech about the pulse sender.
And there are probably about a couple threads started per week here and there about a faulty ignition switch.
#43
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Back to the airbag control unit .There should have been at least one activation recorded when you first started the car and the windows went down .Did you ever see that activation with either the durametric or the other code reader ?If not I'll bet a six pack that the airbag control unit is the culprit .
The other point is the fuel pump relay it's a dual action .I didn't study the wiring diagram b ut I'll bet that the airbag control is the second action and interrupts the dme side .A flaky relay could also be thecause .
The other point is the fuel pump relay it's a dual action .I didn't study the wiring diagram b ut I'll bet that the airbag control is the second action and interrupts the dme side .A flaky relay could also be thecause .
#44
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I did check the pulse sender and it was working properly last I checked. Tried the second key and same result. I did the pill-ectomy and tried that. For all those wondering minds....If the Immobilizer activates, the starter is disabled and the engine will not even turn over. Dave there was a code for the AB Unit when I first hooked up the Durametric. That and a 1601 that just says you disconnected the battery. When I cleared the codes the AB light went out. I can use the Durametric to turn on the fuel pump and I can hear it running so I know that it is good as well as the relay. I'm gonna check the ignition switch next. May have to break down and tow it to the Porsche Stealership 45 miles away..Euccckkk!
#45
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Looks like I may owe you a six pack .There are two parts to the fuel pump relay -DME and something -I'll look at the wiring diagram tommorrow for the something .It appears something is tripping that relay .
The good news is that it is unlikely the DME .
Dave
The good news is that it is unlikely the DME .
Dave