Engine turns over but will NOT Start
#16
Three Wheelin'
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A working computer or another alarm module.
If you have a workshop manual it details all of the various points around the car to check using a multimeter, as well as a special tool (yes another special tool) might be required.
I would mirror what was said previously though, did you double check your re-install job on the steering wheel?
If you have a workshop manual it details all of the various points around the car to check using a multimeter, as well as a special tool (yes another special tool) might be required.
I would mirror what was said previously though, did you double check your re-install job on the steering wheel?
#19
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OK, I have part of the mystery solved or at least narrowed down. It appears that the problem lies in the AirBag module. If I put a meter on the "Crash" output of the AB module I can see it start out at 12V as it goes through the self check. When it completes it, the voltage drops to 2.5v and the AB light comes on. If I open that circuit up(cut the wire) and apply a 12v signal to it, the engine cranks and runs OK. It is as if the AB module thiks that the car had been in a crash and has disabled the fuel flow. The question now is what portion of the AB circuitry has a problem and is telling it that a crash has occurred. From looking at the schematic, the parts monitored are seat belt buckles, child switch, driver airbag, passenger air bag and both side air bags. I know that the buckles and child switch will not cause a crash signal. I need to know how to test the air bags themselves. I assume that they have a resistance measurement and that once they are deployed that resistance is no longer there. If I put a Ohm meter across the airbag, will it deploy? Anyone out there an "expert" on SRS Airbags?
#20
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I have more information on the AB system. It appears that the special tool that Porsche has for testing the wiring is a 3.9 Ohm resistor. This emulates an airbag and I can check the resistance of the wiring, clockspring, etc.. When I get a few minutes, I will check these out and report back.
#21
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OK, I pulled the Drivers ABag and put in the load resistor. I should have seen 4 Ohms but all I got was 1.2. I suspect that I have either a wire pinched or a bad clockspring in the steering column. When I get a few minutes, I will disconnect it and make another measurement.
#24
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Thanks Dave, I may take you up on that.
Logray: I have not gotten to the reset point yet but since it has had only 1 false activation, I hope a replacement unit is not the case.
Logray: I have not gotten to the reset point yet but since it has had only 1 false activation, I hope a replacement unit is not the case.
#25
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Had a few minutes to do some more checking. I disconnected the clockspring and still get the low resistance reading. It looks like the problem is in the wiring. I have a USB snake camera that I am going to use to probe under the dash. Wish me luck.
#27
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Good luck !Not so sure that the unit has only seen one false activation .Logic would indicate that every time the key is turned it starts a new duty cycle .If that is true you are well north of the max .There may be two issues -potential short and unit is full .Just food for thought......
Dave
Dave
#28
Three Wheelin'
#30
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First thing I would check is wiring off the alternator being solid and correct. Just thinking maybe an improperly wired alternator started the ball rolling since an increase of rpms makes for a solid output from the alternator which would screw things around for sure. Just thinking maybe ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'd want to know why the gear picked parade time for falling on it tail.
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I'd want to know why the gear picked parade time for falling on it tail.