changing IMS, RMS, what about clutch at 21k miles?
#16
Former Vendor
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Everyone has a different outlook on economics.. We want to do our work, seal the drive train up and allow the engine to wear out before anything else is necessary. Thats the logic behind replacing these components as standard practice.
In the last 18 months or so I can think of TWO instances where a clutch looked impressively "fresh" and would have been worth retaining. We gave those customers both a choice and thay said "replace it".
Thats just what we do, all the way or not at all.
In the last 18 months or so I can think of TWO instances where a clutch looked impressively "fresh" and would have been worth retaining. We gave those customers both a choice and thay said "replace it".
Thats just what we do, all the way or not at all.
#17
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I got my car at roughly 21K miles just over 2 yrs ago. From day one the clutch pedal seemed rather hard to push, but I chalked it up to it being heavy-duty and was told by the dealer that it was "normal". At 30K when the CPO expired I found a respected independent mechanic to take over servicing from the dealer, and happened to mention about the stiff clutch, and he got in it and said they get like that when they're worn. So I decided to have the clutch done, and get the LN bearing at the same time. When I went to pick the car up I could hardly believe my foot. The pedal was at least half as hard to push. The mechanic said the clutch was well over half shot, that the first owner must have "rode it, slipped it or dumped it---or a combination of all three". Moral: you may get more enjoyment out of a new clutch, rather than wait until it's completely gone.
#18
Rennlist Member
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your lookin at an addl 4-6 bills. And you dont know how granny drove it. I would say change it but not upgrade.. so to speak. If you change it then you know what you have for sure. You also may want to think about that AOS bellow as well.
#19
Rennlist Member
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I just had my IMS done at 27k miles (no issues prior), clutch looked great, flywheel had a couple normal hot spots that were cleaned up, throwout bearing checked and AOS tested. All looked great, so no clutch replacement. I would be shocked if you would need to do it at 15k, given the stats you recited.
#20
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My 2cents, it's silly not to put a new clutch disc in while you're in there.
After all, what are you paying the shop to pull the transmission? Even if you did the work yourself, your time has to be worth something. A new clutch disc costs less than what the dealer charges for labor.
Not changing seems penny smart, pound foolish in my opinion.
After all, what are you paying the shop to pull the transmission? Even if you did the work yourself, your time has to be worth something. A new clutch disc costs less than what the dealer charges for labor.
Not changing seems penny smart, pound foolish in my opinion.