DIY Clearbra
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Anyone here tried a DOY Clearbra install?
Saw a couple on Ebay, one for around $30 something and the original 3M for around $200. I think both were pre cut.
I actually have mixed feelings about it. Don't particularly like plastic coverings on anything, on the other hand when it's removed a few years down the road, nice to find the original paint and headlights are chip, abrasion and scratch free. I great big selling point and value adder for a relatively low mile car.
It looks like the thickness are simular. The cheaper one might be good to learn on and if done successfully replace in a year or so and do the 3M one. I'd hate to get it wrong, screw it up and wad up a $200 piece of plastic and throw it in the blue can.
Saw a couple on Ebay, one for around $30 something and the original 3M for around $200. I think both were pre cut.
I actually have mixed feelings about it. Don't particularly like plastic coverings on anything, on the other hand when it's removed a few years down the road, nice to find the original paint and headlights are chip, abrasion and scratch free. I great big selling point and value adder for a relatively low mile car.
It looks like the thickness are simular. The cheaper one might be good to learn on and if done successfully replace in a year or so and do the 3M one. I'd hate to get it wrong, screw it up and wad up a $200 piece of plastic and throw it in the blue can.
#3
Racer
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what did not turn out well with your diy? i understand the brand of film makes a difference in the ease or difficulty of application. i just did half hood, fenders, and headlights. Headlights came our perfect highly recommend. Hood and fenders i say A-. a speck of dust under one spot, and a wrinkle on one of the fenders. Two feet away and you cant see anything. patience is needed but you can do it.
#4
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same with me... had a couple of wrinkle and couldnt get rid of it. 2-3 feet you wont be able to see it. but, but I can cause I know where to look.... Im kinda **** and like things to be perfect. So if you dont like these slight imperfection, Id pay someone to do it. But, I can live with my first attempt for now. I bet I can do better next time though....
#5
Nordschleife Master
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You have already answered your question in the first post. Go pay a pro that knows how to do this. You do not want to have a $200 piece of film in your trash AND a professional's bill.
Headlight covers? DIY
Full bumper wrap? Pro
Headlight covers? DIY
Full bumper wrap? Pro
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Anyone care to share the technique to installing? Is the film stretchy? A heat gun used at all? Detergent and water and a squeegy? Like any other covering, I'd imagine start in the center and work outwards.
I think I could do it fine and I love challenges. I have used thin colored pressure sensitive plastic film, hand cut my own graphics and applied to auto sheet metal and motorcycle fairings, bags for race vehicles and customizing.
I think I could do it fine and I love challenges. I have used thin colored pressure sensitive plastic film, hand cut my own graphics and applied to auto sheet metal and motorcycle fairings, bags for race vehicles and customizing.
#7
Racer
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agreed. pros do install all the time and in general do a great job. for me i can live with a couple imperfections. yes it is easy to see them when you know where they are. on the other hand i had my first save today on the way to work. large rock hit right on the headlight. just a small nick on the film.
i used a wet application method. two 32 oz trigger bottles. first one di water and 5 drops johnson baby shampoo (no kidding). second 1/3 ipa and the balance di water. tools - hard rubber squege (sp), microfiber towel, sharp knife, pin probe. clean hood, spray with a lot of the soap solution, spray hands, spray precut hood piece. everything wet. place precut piece on hood. line it up - it will slide a bit. squege a strip in the center to tack it down. squege to one side, then the other. get all the liquid/air out first pass. material does stretch quite a bit. use the ipa solution for spots that dont want to stick. needs two weeks to dry completely. small water bubbles ok. air bubbles bad. heat film a bit, poke with needle probe, push air out, done. take your time.
i used a wet application method. two 32 oz trigger bottles. first one di water and 5 drops johnson baby shampoo (no kidding). second 1/3 ipa and the balance di water. tools - hard rubber squege (sp), microfiber towel, sharp knife, pin probe. clean hood, spray with a lot of the soap solution, spray hands, spray precut hood piece. everything wet. place precut piece on hood. line it up - it will slide a bit. squege a strip in the center to tack it down. squege to one side, then the other. get all the liquid/air out first pass. material does stretch quite a bit. use the ipa solution for spots that dont want to stick. needs two weeks to dry completely. small water bubbles ok. air bubbles bad. heat film a bit, poke with needle probe, push air out, done. take your time.
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#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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After watching pro do the job, I decided it is kind of like performing surgery on yourself- it is best left to the experts...the learning curve looks pretty steep.
#9
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I did this on some motorcycle parts over the winter and was very please with the results. Enough so that I bought a kit for my new gt2 bumper and will tackel it over the summer! Patience and lots of liquid to keep everything wet until you are done!
Mike
Mike
#10
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I tried to apply film on my headlight and it was already not so easy, because of the complex shape. I think applying the film to the hood should be easy but fender and bumper you need to be good with the heat gun and it is really not easy. It is a combination of heating and film stretching plus knowing what to stretch where in what direction
if you still want to try, at least film are getting much cheaper these days..
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#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
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agreed. pros do install all the time and in general do a great job. for me i can live with a couple imperfections. yes it is easy to see them when you know where they are. on the other hand i had my first save today on the way to work. large rock hit right on the headlight. just a small nick on the film.
i used a wet application method. two 32 oz trigger bottles. first one di water and 5 drops johnson baby shampoo (no kidding). second 1/3 ipa and the balance di water. tools - hard rubber squege (sp), microfiber towel, sharp knife, pin probe. clean hood, spray with a lot of the soap solution, spray hands, spray precut hood piece. everything wet. place precut piece on hood. line it up - it will slide a bit. squege a strip in the center to tack it down. squege to one side, then the other. get all the liquid/air out first pass. material does stretch quite a bit. use the ipa solution for spots that dont want to stick. needs two weeks to dry completely. small water bubbles ok. air bubbles bad. heat film a bit, poke with needle probe, push air out, done. take your time.
i used a wet application method. two 32 oz trigger bottles. first one di water and 5 drops johnson baby shampoo (no kidding). second 1/3 ipa and the balance di water. tools - hard rubber squege (sp), microfiber towel, sharp knife, pin probe. clean hood, spray with a lot of the soap solution, spray hands, spray precut hood piece. everything wet. place precut piece on hood. line it up - it will slide a bit. squege a strip in the center to tack it down. squege to one side, then the other. get all the liquid/air out first pass. material does stretch quite a bit. use the ipa solution for spots that dont want to stick. needs two weeks to dry completely. small water bubbles ok. air bubbles bad. heat film a bit, poke with needle probe, push air out, done. take your time.
So, what is the other ipa? You made it sound too easy and like a fun and rewarding project. I'm ready to order. Did you go with the NuSolis @ 6.5 Mil $25, 3m @ 8 Mil $200, or other?
Thanks
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Yea, lots of liquid. I hear you need lots of IPA, how about ESB?
#13
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I was told by a dealer the cheap ones on the web are not the same as the pro type most sell. They would be very hard to remove and would turn yellow. The ones Ive seen use Llumar
#14
Racer
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ipa - isopropyl alcohol (please dont drink it!) 70% - local pharmacy. dont forget dionized water too. i am not sure how an esb or ipa mix would work - i figure that belongs in a glass ready for the project. i am a big fan of dyi. just remember it may not be perfect - and i know this is hard for some. as far as the particular product - i am not associated with any product. the precut headlight kit i purchased can be found on the web for $56.50. i did not purchase 3m - while it provides superior performance, it is supposed to be very difficult to apply, and has an orange peal finish. note: i did not do my bumper because it has too many curves, and it is a very large single piece. i will get that repainted if need be.