oil changes
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 370
Likes: 32
From: texas hill country
oil changes
hey guys, i'm thinking of changing my own oil for the first time. i know -- i'm lame, but you have to start sometime right? so my questions are: should i get one of the billet aluminum magnetic drain plugs from pelican parts? also wondering about the spin-on oil filter adapter by LN engineering ($135 -- ouch!), also the oil filter removal socket wrench tool. all from pelican. are the filters used whith the adapter just easier to deal with than the insert/cartridge style? what other tips can you give me? thanks
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,087
Likes: 51
From: MA
i have ln engineering adapter. it has benefit for those who track cars as yes it is easier to unscrew metal filter than to deal with original stock, plus that bolt-on filter provides 100% filtration with no overflow valves.
i do not think magnetic drain plug is an imperative but it will not hurt. only tip - undo drainplug first, do not open up oil inlet cap, let oil drain, then do filter. then get up, open up oil inlet and pour in a quart of fresh oil, let it also drain out. then fill up filter, put it on, secure drain plug, do not overtight and put in 7 qt of oil (if your full capacity is 8qt). you car is probably still on ramps at this moment, so I usually start it up, get off ramps to make sure car is horizontal, then you`ll have to wait a bit as oil meter will want to settle if you started car up.
then i add STP zddp blue bottle additive and top on as oil as needed - usually about of half qt.
i do not think magnetic drain plug is an imperative but it will not hurt. only tip - undo drainplug first, do not open up oil inlet cap, let oil drain, then do filter. then get up, open up oil inlet and pour in a quart of fresh oil, let it also drain out. then fill up filter, put it on, secure drain plug, do not overtight and put in 7 qt of oil (if your full capacity is 8qt). you car is probably still on ramps at this moment, so I usually start it up, get off ramps to make sure car is horizontal, then you`ll have to wait a bit as oil meter will want to settle if you started car up.
then i add STP zddp blue bottle additive and top on as oil as needed - usually about of half qt.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19,031
Likes: 268
From: Bentonville, AR
hey guys, i'm thinking of changing my own oil for the first time. i know -- i'm lame, but you have to start sometime right? so my questions are: should i get one of the billet aluminum magnetic drain plugs from pelican parts? also wondering about the spin-on oil filter adapter by LN engineering ($135 -- ouch!), also the oil filter removal socket wrench tool. all from pelican. are the filters used whith the adapter just easier to deal with than the insert/cartridge style? what other tips can you give me? thanks
Whatever the engine has shed, plastic, rubber, alum., iron/ferrous metal, is trapped by the oil filter and is either to be found in the filter element folds are in the oil filter housing oil that should be poured into a separate and clean drain pan for inspection.
If you elect to go with a spin on filter this makes examining the filter element more difficult because you have to cut through the filter's outer metal casing which if not done carefully can contaminate the oil filter oil.
Easier imho to just retain the stock filter setup and dump the whole thing into a clean drain pan. The filter's already 'naked' and it doesn't take but a safety razor or Exacto Knife to cut the paper element portion free and unroll if it you want to.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,421
Likes: 25
From: north vancouver
I installed a billet drain plug because the hex on my stock plug was starting to get sloppy. Not sure if the billet will wear better but for the cost I figured what the hell.
+1 on leaving the stock filter setup. It's easy enough to deal with and does allow for simple filter inspections.
I don't think you'll want to start cutting filters open just yet, since you're only just getting comfortable with oil changes, but after a few of these, you'll start geting curious.
+1 on leaving the stock filter setup. It's easy enough to deal with and does allow for simple filter inspections.
I don't think you'll want to start cutting filters open just yet, since you're only just getting comfortable with oil changes, but after a few of these, you'll start geting curious.
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Parts Specialist
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the stock filter has worked pretty well on your car for many miles... I would keep it and use the $135 for something else.
the same can be said for the drain plug buit its pretty cheap so whatever....
as for the oil, what are you planning to use anyhow
the same can be said for the drain plug buit its pretty cheap so whatever....
as for the oil, what are you planning to use anyhow
Rocky Mountain High
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Kolorado
Agreed - it's pretty easy. I still have my stock oil filter.
One tip: the oil comes out really, really, really fast... and there's lots of it. Make sure you have a big catch pan - mine holds 15 quarts. I'd put some newspaper down under it too, just in case you spill a few drops.
One more tip: I don't use a jack or ramps. I just back my car up so that the engine hangs over the little lip from my garage to my driveway. This gives me just enough space to get under the car and drain the oil without ramps.
One tip: the oil comes out really, really, really fast... and there's lots of it. Make sure you have a big catch pan - mine holds 15 quarts. I'd put some newspaper down under it too, just in case you spill a few drops.
One more tip: I don't use a jack or ramps. I just back my car up so that the engine hangs over the little lip from my garage to my driveway. This gives me just enough space to get under the car and drain the oil without ramps.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,016
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From: Hyde Park, NY
I prefer the cartridge type filter... cheaper, less messy, and easier to "inspect".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nMi2-nHXYE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nMi2-nHXYE
Parts Specialist
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Joined: Aug 2008
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+1 for really really really fast...my oil pan didnt have a big enough hole in the top section and although it holds 15 quarts, it overflowed due to the restriction of the hole.... I hacked 2 other holes in the top section and now it works - nothing like overflowing !! 
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 661
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From: Bettendorf, IA
The Blitz pans are slick because they can be sealed to bring your used oil back to Autozone for disposal. However, they are cheaply made & the caps look like they won't take very much abuse before eventaully cracking.
Good luck!