Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

My engine drop & IMS, clutch, AOS, RMS etc

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-25-2010, 02:26 AM
  #16  
OZ951
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
OZ951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by chris walrod
Fair enough. Just keep an eye out for bits in the oil and in the oil filter element.
Aye, that's what I do.
Old 11-25-2010, 09:42 PM
  #17  
savannah996
Instructor
 
savannah996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: 996C2,6sp, Fister-d mufflers, K&N CAI, Savannah, GA
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

can the trans be pulled without the engine to do a clutch? I looked on pelican for the diy. and i only saw one for both to be pulled like you did
Old 11-25-2010, 09:53 PM
  #18  
Eharrison
Nordschleife Master
 
Eharrison's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 6,194
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by savannah996
can the trans be pulled without the engine to do a clutch? I looked on pelican for the diy. and i only saw one for both to be pulled like you did
Yes there's threads on here doing it.
Old 11-26-2010, 06:32 AM
  #19  
OZ951
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
OZ951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Got my motor back this morning after having the block repaired (welded) and helicoils put in where the two problem bolts were located. The workshop said they took some pics while they did the repair and they will send them to me so I may be able to post those later. Now on with the job!
Attached Images  
Old 11-26-2010, 10:33 AM
  #20  
OZ951
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
OZ951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

My RMS was dry as a bone, IMS flange was pretty gunked up though. The bearing seals looked in-tact but the IMS itself was well loaded with oil so the seals were obviously letting it through.

Here's a couple of the pics, just got to install this spiro-loc retaining ring now, doesn't seem like there is much of a groove for it so We'll see how it goes.
Attached Images    
Old 11-26-2010, 08:11 PM
  #21  
savannah996
Instructor
 
savannah996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: 996C2,6sp, Fister-d mufflers, K&N CAI, Savannah, GA
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

are you doing the ims bearing upgrade?
Old 11-27-2010, 02:40 AM
  #22  
OZ951
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
OZ951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by savannah996
are you doing the ims bearing upgrade?
Yes that's the LN engineering IMS bearing in the last pic of my last above, easiest way to tell is that the bearing seal facing the flange is "open" to allow oil into the bearings.
Old 11-27-2010, 03:09 AM
  #23  
OZ951
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
OZ951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

The spiro-loc installed easily enough and locked positively into place. Flange installation requires being careful since the IMS tube is being pulled to one side of the flange orifice and you don't want to be damaging the flange seal as it gets installed. I found the best way to deal with that was to put the flange in place with 1 screw in place then I put a socket and extension bar on the bearing stud nut and then I applied some pressure on the extension bar to line up the IMS centrally in the orifice and then insert the other flange screws and begin to snug them up.
Attached Images   
Old 11-28-2010, 09:03 PM
  #24  
OZ951
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
OZ951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

The pics I posted at the beginning of this thread have disappeared but I have added a new page to my web with a more comprehensive range of pictures and notes regarding the work I am doing on my 996 at the moment. It can be found via the links in my signature or directly from here

http://www.oz951.com/public/enginedrop.htm
Old 11-28-2010, 10:18 PM
  #25  
TomF
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TomF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,748
Received 154 Likes on 133 Posts
Default

OZ951, very nice write-up on your webpage. I will definitely be using it for reference when I do my engine drop in the next couple of months. Thanks for the info!
Old 11-28-2010, 10:19 PM
  #26  
jeneric996
Instructor
 
jeneric996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi OZ,

Great work and awesome details!

I have a basic question about removing one of the radiator hoses. I cannot disconnect the hose that is pressed into the hard metal pipe. This is the rear main hose on the right side that connects to the hard metal pipe and leads to the rear of the engine. It has a "C" clip which I can remove, but I cannot get enough torque to pull them apart.

Is there a special tool or technique to separate them?

Mine is a 2003 996 but assume yours is has the same setup.

Thanks.
Old 11-29-2010, 02:23 AM
  #27  
OZ951
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
OZ951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TomF
OZ951, very nice write-up on your webpage. I will definitely be using it for reference when I do my engine drop in the next couple of months. Thanks for the info!
Originally Posted by jeneric996
Hi OZ,

Great work and awesome details!

I have a basic question about removing one of the radiator hoses. I cannot disconnect the hose that is pressed into the hard metal pipe. This is the rear main hose on the right side that connects to the hard metal pipe and leads to the rear of the engine. It has a "C" clip which I can remove, but I cannot get enough torque to pull them apart.

Is there a special tool or technique to separate them?

Mine is a 2003 996 but assume yours is has the same setup.

Thanks.
Thanks, you can use a screwdriver to carefully separate the hose from the hard pipe (part of the way around anyway), you can get more purchase on the hose by using a belt/webbing/rope and then pulling on the belt. The hoses are definitely a bit of work to get off though. Good luck.



Quick Reply: My engine drop & IMS, clutch, AOS, RMS etc



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 12:08 AM.