My engine drop & IMS, clutch, AOS, RMS etc
11-23-2010, 02:49 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
My engine drop & IMS, clutch, AOS, RMS etc
So I have taken some time off this week to tackle a bunch of things on my 996. I have taken the approach of dropping the motor and transaxle together so that I can do a number of these jobs and learn a few things along the way.
I'll write up the full process with tips on my web page when I'm done but in the mean time I'll throw a few pics out there of some of those problem areas that are usually encountered along the way. To be honest I didn't really have too many issues with dropping the motor but that is because of the "heads up" comments from some of the guys that already went through the process.
Some key points that may benefit others.
Drop the motor half way and then worry about the AC rear bolt, clutch slave cylinder & power steering lines.
Slave cylinder - I undid the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt using several extension bars so that the ratchet itself was positioned at the brake rotor - obviously the trans/engine has to be lowered far enough for this to be possible. I then lowered the engine/trans another several inches until the upper bolt was visible/accessible and undid that one using the extension bars as well. This only took a few mins to do. Pic with red arrows shows the bolts.
AC - As mentioned elsewhere dropping the engine 8-10 inches gives more room to swing a ratchet. The pics show the rear bolt and the angle to approach the bolt with a ratchet and extension bar. I also used a magnetic pickup to lift and hold the bolt out of the way while I manoeuvered the AC compressor free of the block. This method took about 10 mins and most of that was wasted reversing one of the front bolts with a long nose plier after I used a gear wrench to loosen it and then discovered I couldn't get the wrench off the nut (or finish loosening it) because by that time it was up against the intake manifold as can be seen in the pic (Tip - dont use a non reverseable gear wrench
)
Vent tube clip - as mentioned by 15PSI there is a grey clip which needs to be removed before the vent tube can be disconnected - pic attached.
I was a bit concerned about the lack of room to swing a spanner to undo the power steering lines but once again these were easy enough to do with the engine lowered.
As I found out the engine can be lowered quite enough to do all these jobs and it makes them all significantly easier. Thanks to the previous Rennlisters who have shared their experiences
.
I'll write up the full process with tips on my web page when I'm done but in the mean time I'll throw a few pics out there of some of those problem areas that are usually encountered along the way. To be honest I didn't really have too many issues with dropping the motor but that is because of the "heads up" comments from some of the guys that already went through the process.
Some key points that may benefit others.
Drop the motor half way and then worry about the AC rear bolt, clutch slave cylinder & power steering lines.
Slave cylinder - I undid the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt using several extension bars so that the ratchet itself was positioned at the brake rotor - obviously the trans/engine has to be lowered far enough for this to be possible. I then lowered the engine/trans another several inches until the upper bolt was visible/accessible and undid that one using the extension bars as well. This only took a few mins to do. Pic with red arrows shows the bolts.
AC - As mentioned elsewhere dropping the engine 8-10 inches gives more room to swing a ratchet. The pics show the rear bolt and the angle to approach the bolt with a ratchet and extension bar. I also used a magnetic pickup to lift and hold the bolt out of the way while I manoeuvered the AC compressor free of the block. This method took about 10 mins and most of that was wasted reversing one of the front bolts with a long nose plier after I used a gear wrench to loosen it and then discovered I couldn't get the wrench off the nut (or finish loosening it) because by that time it was up against the intake manifold as can be seen in the pic (Tip - dont use a non reverseable gear wrench
)Vent tube clip - as mentioned by 15PSI there is a grey clip which needs to be removed before the vent tube can be disconnected - pic attached.
I was a bit concerned about the lack of room to swing a spanner to undo the power steering lines but once again these were easy enough to do with the engine lowered.
As I found out the engine can be lowered quite enough to do all these jobs and it makes them all significantly easier. Thanks to the previous Rennlisters who have shared their experiences
.
Last edited by OZ951; 11-24-2010 at 03:19 AM.
11-23-2010, 05:06 PM
#4
Very nice. I like seeing guys taking on challenging and more-massive tasks with "regular guy" tools. I might be lucky enough to have a lift in about 6months, but until then it's good ol' jackstands and jacks.
Very cool, keep us posted.
Very cool, keep us posted.
Trending Topics
11-24-2010, 03:07 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
So it's been a pretty casual pace while I figured out a few things. Here in the UK it's about 3 or 4 degrees C now which is a bit bloody cold for Aussies like me to be working in an open garage - I just remind myself that Canadians probably think 3 or 4 C is a luxuriously warm day and tell myself to get on with it.
11-24-2010, 01:52 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ok, so today started off fine with getting the wooden blocks out from between the jack & the motor by resting the motor on wooden blocks under the headers on one side and supported by my trolley jack on the other side - thence slip out the wooden blocks from between the sump & ATV jack and raise the ATV jack to contact the sump and take the weight again.
With the ATV jack bottomed out there was still about 30mm insufficient clearance to get the motor out from under the car so I removed the throttle body & intake manifolds and undid the fuel line/cable clamp which is attached to the rear hoist point. That provided plenty of clearance to pull the motor out at that point. Manifold removal was straight forwards - just make a note of the vac lines which are connected underneath the Cyl 1-3 manifold (LHS).
From there I scrubbed around the transaxle-block bolts and started soaking them in penetrating oil. All was fine with the lower nut/bolt combo, the 12 point bolt and the Cyl 4-6 bolts which backed out easily enough. However the two bolts in the vicinity of the AOS were tough. I started a process of small turn, soak in liquid wrench & wait (or do something else like AOS / coolant tank). Anyway that process didn't help much in the end. One of the tough bolts 'gave' and backed out and shortly thereafter I saw that it was actually the block which gave. The last pic shows that a good chunk of block has broken off. Not very happy about that as now I'll need to have the engine collected and taken away to be repaired / welded & re-tapped. My workshop is coming to pick up the engine in the morning so progress is on hold for the moment.
The other remaining bolt is actually tougher than the one that broke the block so that will probably have its head cut off in order to separate the trans then it will probably get cut flush / drilled & heli-coiled rather than risking any more block issues.
Not the greatest wrenching day. On the up-side, the coolant tank replacement and AOS were cake.
With the ATV jack bottomed out there was still about 30mm insufficient clearance to get the motor out from under the car so I removed the throttle body & intake manifolds and undid the fuel line/cable clamp which is attached to the rear hoist point. That provided plenty of clearance to pull the motor out at that point. Manifold removal was straight forwards - just make a note of the vac lines which are connected underneath the Cyl 1-3 manifold (LHS).
From there I scrubbed around the transaxle-block bolts and started soaking them in penetrating oil. All was fine with the lower nut/bolt combo, the 12 point bolt and the Cyl 4-6 bolts which backed out easily enough. However the two bolts in the vicinity of the AOS were tough. I started a process of small turn, soak in liquid wrench & wait (or do something else like AOS / coolant tank). Anyway that process didn't help much in the end. One of the tough bolts 'gave' and backed out and shortly thereafter I saw that it was actually the block which gave. The last pic shows that a good chunk of block has broken off. Not very happy about that as now I'll need to have the engine collected and taken away to be repaired / welded & re-tapped. My workshop is coming to pick up the engine in the morning so progress is on hold for the moment.
The other remaining bolt is actually tougher than the one that broke the block so that will probably have its head cut off in order to separate the trans then it will probably get cut flush / drilled & heli-coiled rather than risking any more block issues.
Not the greatest wrenching day. On the up-side, the coolant tank replacement and AOS were cake.
11-24-2010, 01:59 PM
#12
Nordschleife Master
Fricken awful! What a bastard that the block gave. Nothing worse than seeing something like that after all that work. I hope all the other items give you less grief.
On a more productive part of the post there is a tear down of a M96 on Pelican that has TONS of photos to help with vacuum lines etc.
Tear Down
and a closeup photo documentary on a new engine:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...rTech-114A.htm
On a more productive part of the post there is a tear down of a M96 on Pelican that has TONS of photos to help with vacuum lines etc.
Tear Down
and a closeup photo documentary on a new engine:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...rTech-114A.htm
Last edited by Eharrison; 11-24-2010 at 02:49 PM.
11-24-2010, 04:32 PM
#13
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
I would second this recommendation. Actually, at that point you can change all of the guide ramps. The tooling to hold and time the cams isnt too terribly expensive and quite easy to use. There is one additional $30 tool you can get to make life easier in compressing the tensioner assy.
11-24-2010, 05:02 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I would second this recommendation. Actually, at that point you can change all of the guide ramps. The tooling to hold and time the cams isnt too terribly expensive and quite easy to use. There is one additional $30 tool you can get to make life easier in compressing the tensioner assy.