Ignition Switch
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 245
Likes: 2
From: Oceanside, CA
Ignition Switch
I've searched all of the ignition switch faults but I still have some questions about, what looks like, an immanent failure of my switch.
Recently it got difficult to remove the key. I figured out that if I applied just a bit more pressure counterclockwise after the key was turned to the OFF position, the key would come out easily again. Today, however, when I went to turn the car off I felt spring loading prior to turning completely to the OFF position. Immediately I tried to start the car and noticed that the spring loading at the "starter engage" position (the loading that makes the key snap back to the RUN position) is no longer present. If I turn the key to the START position it will just stay there if I don't manually turn the key back to the RUN position. It still starts and runs if I put the key in the proper position. Now when I go to turn it to the OFF position I always get spring tension trying to get to the OFF position. The key is (once again) difficult to remove and upon removing the key, I don't get the metallic clunk of the steering wheel locking (and the steering wheel does not lock).
OK -- so is this the whole enchilada (about $170) that's shot or is it just the electrical portion that's shot (about $12).
Sorry if this has been covered but I searched and it wasn't really conclusive.
Thanks, in advance, for the help.
Dan
Recently it got difficult to remove the key. I figured out that if I applied just a bit more pressure counterclockwise after the key was turned to the OFF position, the key would come out easily again. Today, however, when I went to turn the car off I felt spring loading prior to turning completely to the OFF position. Immediately I tried to start the car and noticed that the spring loading at the "starter engage" position (the loading that makes the key snap back to the RUN position) is no longer present. If I turn the key to the START position it will just stay there if I don't manually turn the key back to the RUN position. It still starts and runs if I put the key in the proper position. Now when I go to turn it to the OFF position I always get spring tension trying to get to the OFF position. The key is (once again) difficult to remove and upon removing the key, I don't get the metallic clunk of the steering wheel locking (and the steering wheel does not lock).
OK -- so is this the whole enchilada (about $170) that's shot or is it just the electrical portion that's shot (about $12).
Sorry if this has been covered but I searched and it wasn't really conclusive.
Thanks, in advance, for the help.
Dan
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,042
Likes: 3
From: Roseville, CA USA
I've searched all of the ignition switch faults but I still have some questions about, what looks like, an immanent failure of my switch.
Recently it got difficult to remove the key. I figured out that if I applied just a bit more pressure counterclockwise after the key was turned to the OFF position, the key would come out easily again. Today, however, when I went to turn the car off I felt spring loading prior to turning completely to the OFF position. Immediately I tried to start the car and noticed that the spring loading at the "starter engage" position (the loading that makes the key snap back to the RUN position) is no longer present. If I turn the key to the START position it will just stay there if I don't manually turn the key back to the RUN position. It still starts and runs if I put the key in the proper position. Now when I go to turn it to the OFF position I always get spring tension trying to get to the OFF position. The key is (once again) difficult to remove and upon removing the key, I don't get the metallic clunk of the steering wheel locking (and the steering wheel does not lock).
OK -- so is this the whole enchilada (about $170) that's shot or is it just the electrical portion that's shot (about $12).
Sorry if this has been covered but I searched and it wasn't really conclusive.
Thanks, in advance, for the help.
Dan
Recently it got difficult to remove the key. I figured out that if I applied just a bit more pressure counterclockwise after the key was turned to the OFF position, the key would come out easily again. Today, however, when I went to turn the car off I felt spring loading prior to turning completely to the OFF position. Immediately I tried to start the car and noticed that the spring loading at the "starter engage" position (the loading that makes the key snap back to the RUN position) is no longer present. If I turn the key to the START position it will just stay there if I don't manually turn the key back to the RUN position. It still starts and runs if I put the key in the proper position. Now when I go to turn it to the OFF position I always get spring tension trying to get to the OFF position. The key is (once again) difficult to remove and upon removing the key, I don't get the metallic clunk of the steering wheel locking (and the steering wheel does not lock).
OK -- so is this the whole enchilada (about $170) that's shot or is it just the electrical portion that's shot (about $12).
Sorry if this has been covered but I searched and it wasn't really conclusive.
Thanks, in advance, for the help.
Dan
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 157
From: A twisty backroad in PA
I replaced the switch on my 2000 C2 about a year ago because it became very difficult to turn the key after inserting it. Also, it would occasionally take a second or two for the ignition switch to snap back to the “0” position after removing the key.
After installing the new switch the key is slightly easier to turn to the on position but it still has too much resistance. I guess I’ll need to replace the whole assembly in order to totally fix the problem.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,613
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From: Cape Cod
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 716
Likes: 9
From: Contra Costa, CA
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