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Bang for buck track mods?

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Old 10-30-2010, 09:15 PM
  #31  
mglobe
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Originally Posted by jr2
For $400 (from Suncoast) + installation, the RS engine mounts are worth considering.
I just put these in, and yes they are an improvement, but in terms of performance, you're talking about tenths of a second at best. I race my 996, and flog the crap out of it. I went for quite a while with stock mounts and they really didn't pose much of an issue except in the most highly loaded moments, and even then it wasn't nearly as big an issue as things like setup, tire pressures, aero, and the loose nut behind the wheel. If I were building a race car, I MIGHT put these in right away, but honestly, I also might just wait until I need to replace the stock mounts. If you are racing, or driving at the highest level in DE's, then I'd consider these. Otherwise not unless your stock mounts fail. Instead, I'd spend the $400 on a DE weekend. JMHO

Mike
Old 11-01-2010, 01:24 PM
  #32  
jr2
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Originally Posted by mglobe
I just put these in, and yes they are an improvement, but in terms of performance, you're talking about tenths of a second at best. I race my 996, and flog the crap out of it. I went for quite a while with stock mounts and they really didn't pose much of an issue except in the most highly loaded moments, and even then it wasn't nearly as big an issue as things like setup, tire pressures, aero, and the loose nut behind the wheel. If I were building a race car, I MIGHT put these in right away, but honestly, I also might just wait until I need to replace the stock mounts. If you are racing, or driving at the highest level in DE's, then I'd consider these. Otherwise not unless your stock mounts fail. Instead, I'd spend the $400 on a DE weekend. JMHO

Mike
Fair point on the improvement equation of seconds per $.

I just use my car on the street and the $400 factory part price + installation was not a lot of $$ to me and greatly improved the feel and driving experience (have PSS9/GT-3 links/sways, etc.) -- at least in my own head!

My stock mounts had normal minor wear, but I had the car in for a new clutch and while the transmission was dropped, also did the IMS upgrade/renewed the [non-leaking] RMS -- similarly, while it was in the shop, had them put in the RS mounts as well.
Old 11-01-2010, 02:37 PM
  #33  
V225
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Don't let the naysayers let you believe that the 4S's 4wd is crippling for the track. I've been tracking mine for years now, and it is an absolute blast. It is the perfect car on which to learn skills. As well, it is a great car once you've learned those skills. If the tail end comes out on you, application of throttle will stabilize the car, every time. Even with the 4wd, you can have fun with the back end if you want to. If the car is understeering, then you are probably not using the best line for this car. Here is what I've done, in the order I've done them, to make the car more track-oriented:

Spare tire removal(weight savings)
Interior strip(for weight savings, not Really necessary)
Roll bar
Racing brake pads & fluid(stock brakes /fluid never once faded on me, but I'm hoping to get more life out of these)
Lightweight wheels(more weight saving)
Muffler bypass(again for weight savings)
x51 oil pan
Racing seats + harness(safety + weight savings, coming soon)
x73 suspension(coming soon, this is more track oriented than street. Suspension seems to really help drop times on these cars though)

I'll most likely be doing an accusump next year to go with the new suspension and r comps. As others have mentioned, oil starvation is definitely a problem on our cars with upgraded suspension and racing tires.

I've tracked this car many times, and am just now going to R compounds. My advice would be to stick with street tires for awhile. Get to know the car fully before going to the R compounds. They are a blast, but give much less warning when approaching the limit than street tires. Breakaway characteristics are also much more abrupt.

Edit: As for alignment, my local tech told me that with the stock suspension, the max they could do was very minimal neg. camber(a few tenths of a degree). The rear tires do rollover past the limit, depending on the track so the car could certainly use more camber.

Last edited by V225; 11-01-2010 at 02:52 PM.



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