Painted Wheel Center Cap DIY
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#4
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
DUDE!!!
If I send you my caps how much to paint them?
FREAKING AWESOME!!!
its beautiful !!
BTW the "point" points right at the valve stem...the front looks off a little
on the Fuchs the locking nut goes between the point and the valve stem, IIRC on the later years it goes opposite.. anyone confirm?
If I send you my caps how much to paint them?
FREAKING AWESOME!!!
its beautiful !!
BTW the "point" points right at the valve stem...the front looks off a little
on the Fuchs the locking nut goes between the point and the valve stem, IIRC on the later years it goes opposite.. anyone confirm?
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
It took me a couple of hours, a few evenings in a row. Probably be cheaper for you to buy them from the dealer.
However, if anyone wants to buy some paint and brushes, I've got plenty left.
Man! I tried to line it up, but I guess I was off by 10° or so. Good eye. I've corrected my erroneous ways.
However, if anyone wants to buy some paint and brushes, I've got plenty left.
Man! I tried to line it up, but I guess I was off by 10° or so. Good eye. I've corrected my erroneous ways.
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#8
Parts Specialist
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#13
Three Wheelin'
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#14
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
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Fantastic work !
I had been planning on trying this but didn't really know where to start and what paints might look best. Your detailed tutorial and materials list will be a big help - thank you.
I won't be able to match your results, but if I can do half as well I'll be pleased. Thanks again for the info.
I had been planning on trying this but didn't really know where to start and what paints might look best. Your detailed tutorial and materials list will be a big help - thank you.
I won't be able to match your results, but if I can do half as well I'll be pleased. Thanks again for the info.
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Updating this thread for posterity. The write up on RennTech is still accessible, but you need to log in there.
I painted these about 8 years ago, and they are still holding up well.
Here are the details for reference (originally posted in 2010):
My black and silver concave plastic wheel center caps were peeling in places, so I decided to paint them. (I have a '99 996) I ordered the paints and brushes directly from TamiyaUSA (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...p?sub-id=60100)
My order:
Acrylic Mini X-18Semi Gl Black - 10ml Bottle Item# 81518 $2.30
Acrylic Mini X-7 Red - 10ml Bottle Item# 81507 $2.30
Acrylic Mini X-12 Gold Leaf - 10ml Bottle Item# 81512 $2.30
Pointed Brush Med - DC716 Item# 87016 $2.50
High Finish Pointed Brush - (Ultra Fine) Item# 87048 $5.25
Shipping: $6.00
I used the pointed medium brush for the flat areas, and the ultra fine brush AND a toothpick for the letters and detail areas, like the horse legs. If you are careful with the gold and red, you can use the black just for touch-up. I only painted black where it was necessary, and left the factory black in the other areas. A magnifying glass helped, too. I put a small amount of paint in a beer bottle cap for dipping, and some isopropyl alcohol in a second cap to clean brushes. I thinned the black paint with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol also, but not the gold or red. You can also clean the brushes with water.
If you mess up, you can clean up mistakes using a clean toothpick or a q-tip. It's best to do the gold and red, then let it dry overnight before doing the black touch-up work. I also did one cap start to finish before doing the other three. The second set came out better, since I had practice.
I let the black dry overnight, then did 3 coats of clearcoat spray at 20 minute intervals.
More DIY Tips:
I painted these about 8 years ago, and they are still holding up well.
Here are the details for reference (originally posted in 2010):
My black and silver concave plastic wheel center caps were peeling in places, so I decided to paint them. (I have a '99 996) I ordered the paints and brushes directly from TamiyaUSA (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...p?sub-id=60100)
My order:
Acrylic Mini X-18Semi Gl Black - 10ml Bottle Item# 81518 $2.30
Acrylic Mini X-7 Red - 10ml Bottle Item# 81507 $2.30
Acrylic Mini X-12 Gold Leaf - 10ml Bottle Item# 81512 $2.30
Pointed Brush Med - DC716 Item# 87016 $2.50
High Finish Pointed Brush - (Ultra Fine) Item# 87048 $5.25
Shipping: $6.00
I used the pointed medium brush for the flat areas, and the ultra fine brush AND a toothpick for the letters and detail areas, like the horse legs. If you are careful with the gold and red, you can use the black just for touch-up. I only painted black where it was necessary, and left the factory black in the other areas. A magnifying glass helped, too. I put a small amount of paint in a beer bottle cap for dipping, and some isopropyl alcohol in a second cap to clean brushes. I thinned the black paint with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol also, but not the gold or red. You can also clean the brushes with water.
If you mess up, you can clean up mistakes using a clean toothpick or a q-tip. It's best to do the gold and red, then let it dry overnight before doing the black touch-up work. I also did one cap start to finish before doing the other three. The second set came out better, since I had practice.
I let the black dry overnight, then did 3 coats of clearcoat spray at 20 minute intervals.
More DIY Tips:
Here are the steps and the items you'll need to complete this easy fixer upper.
1. Find a local hobby store or online and buy the following:
Tamiya Acrylic paint in the following colors, Semi Gloss Black, Red, Gold and you'll also need some thinner I just use the
Tamiya thinner. YOU MUST USE ACRYLIC as it holds it's color and after being shot with 3 coats of clear will last a long time!
1 Can of Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel CLEAR Pep-Boys
1 Set of hobby brushes small tipped (tight spaces on the wheel centers)
2. Approx. 2 hours of your time and bit of a steady hand but dont worry with a paper towel, thinner and a toothpick you can correct your errors if you cant stay inside the lines.
3. CLEAN the wheel centers a good dish soap or degreaser is best DRY COMPLETELY.
4. Start with the hard color 1st GOLD dont be put off it takes 2 coats and gold hobby paint is the worst color to apply just be patient after 1 coat dries apply the second and you'll see what I mean. Next do the RED. Then finally the BLACK. Set aside to dry for about 1/2 hour (have a Stella) then get out your clear coat and LIGHTLY apply 1 then 2 then 3 coats make sure you allow about 20 min for the clear to dry between coats.
The wheel centers have recessed portions for each color so it's easy to paint dip the color into the spot where it belongs.
1. Find a local hobby store or online and buy the following:
Tamiya Acrylic paint in the following colors, Semi Gloss Black, Red, Gold and you'll also need some thinner I just use the
Tamiya thinner. YOU MUST USE ACRYLIC as it holds it's color and after being shot with 3 coats of clear will last a long time!
1 Can of Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel CLEAR Pep-Boys
1 Set of hobby brushes small tipped (tight spaces on the wheel centers)
2. Approx. 2 hours of your time and bit of a steady hand but dont worry with a paper towel, thinner and a toothpick you can correct your errors if you cant stay inside the lines.
3. CLEAN the wheel centers a good dish soap or degreaser is best DRY COMPLETELY.
4. Start with the hard color 1st GOLD dont be put off it takes 2 coats and gold hobby paint is the worst color to apply just be patient after 1 coat dries apply the second and you'll see what I mean. Next do the RED. Then finally the BLACK. Set aside to dry for about 1/2 hour (have a Stella) then get out your clear coat and LIGHTLY apply 1 then 2 then 3 coats make sure you allow about 20 min for the clear to dry between coats.
The wheel centers have recessed portions for each color so it's easy to paint dip the color into the spot where it belongs.