Notices
996 Forum
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: LN Engineering

Painted Wheel Center Cap DIY

 
Old 09-18-2010, 06:44 PM
  #1  
frisbee91
User
Thread Starter
 
frisbee91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 1,472
Talking Painted Wheel Center Cap DIY

I found this DIY on painting the wheel center cap crests, and since my black-and-silver plastic concave center caps were peeling, I decided to go for it. I posted more details over on the DIY page, but here are a few pics (and one "before" pic).
Likey?
Attached Images    
frisbee91 is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 06:53 PM
  #2  
achtung911
User
 
achtung911's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: washington
Posts: 247
Default

link doesnt work
achtung911 is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 07:02 PM
  #3  
redridge
Super User
 
redridge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,259
Default

I tried this.... I suck at painting and dont have the patience.... I love painted wheel crests. But you did an excellent job.

redridge is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 07:03 PM
  #4  
ivangene
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16,326
Default

DUDE!!!

If I send you my caps how much to paint them?

FREAKING AWESOME!!!

its beautiful !!

BTW the "point" points right at the valve stem...the front looks off a little
on the Fuchs the locking nut goes between the point and the valve stem, IIRC on the later years it goes opposite.. anyone confirm?
ivangene is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 07:03 PM
  #5  
Tom M
User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Indiana
Posts: 676
Default

Link worked for me but I needed to log in.

Turned out great BTW.
Tom M is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 07:40 PM
  #6  
frisbee91
User
Thread Starter
 
frisbee91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 1,472
Default

link doesn't work
Yeah, apparently you need to be logged it to Renntech.org to access the DIY tutorials
frisbee91 is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 08:57 PM
  #7  
frisbee91
User
Thread Starter
 
frisbee91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 1,472
Default

Originally Posted by ivangene View Post
DUDE!!!
If I send you my caps how much to paint them?
It took me a couple of hours, a few evenings in a row. Probably be cheaper for you to buy them from the dealer.

However, if anyone wants to buy some paint and brushes, I've got plenty left.

Originally Posted by ivangene View Post
BTW the "point" points right at the valve stem...the front looks off a little
on the Fuchs the locking nut goes between the point and the valve stem, IIRC on the later years it goes opposite.. anyone confirm?
Man! I tried to line it up, but I guess I was off by 10░ or so. Good eye. I've corrected my erroneous ways.
frisbee91 is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 09:05 PM
  #8  
ivangene
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16,326
Default

Originally Posted by frisbee91 View Post

Man! I tried to line it up, but I guess I was off by 10░ or so. Good eye. I've corrected my erroneous ways.




really really nice job!!
ivangene is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 09:18 PM
  #9  
johonole
User
 
johonole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 105
Default

very nice- what kind of paint did you use?
johonole is offline  
Old 09-18-2010, 09:55 PM
  #10  
frisbee91
User
Thread Starter
 
frisbee91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 1,472
Default

Originally Posted by johonole View Post
very nice- what kind of paint did you use?
Tamiya USA gold leaf, red, and semigloss black. Check the DIY on Renntech for tons of details. Apparently, login is required for the link to work.
frisbee91 is offline  
Old 09-19-2010, 12:21 PM
  #11  
CabrioArtie
User
 
CabrioArtie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 316
Default

Beautiful job, you must have a steady hand. Don't think I could do such fine detail painting like that.

Awesome.
CabrioArtie is online now  
Old 09-19-2010, 09:48 PM
  #12  
Shark Attack
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Shark Attack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North West PA USA
Posts: 10,865
Default

you missed the "stuttgart" FAIL... Just kidding, nice work
Shark Attack is offline  
Old 09-19-2010, 11:36 PM
  #13  
frisbee91
User
Thread Starter
 
frisbee91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 1,472
Default gold vs. black lettering

Originally Posted by Shark Attack View Post
you missed the "stuttgart" FAIL...
Yeah, I thought about coloring the lettering black, but then I decided to make it match my hood badge, which has gold lettering. (plus, that lettering is really small)
Attached Images  
frisbee91 is offline  
Old 09-21-2010, 04:14 AM
  #14  
HRTex
User
 
HRTex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 43
Default

Fantastic work !

I had been planning on trying this but didn't really know where to start and what paints might look best. Your detailed tutorial and materials list will be a big help - thank you.

I won't be able to match your results, but if I can do half as well I'll be pleased. Thanks again for the info.
HRTex is offline  
Old 10-22-2018, 12:18 PM
  #15  
frisbee91
User
Thread Starter
 
frisbee91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Delaware, USA
Posts: 1,472
Default

Updating this thread for posterity. The write up on RennTech is still accessible, but you need to log in there.
I painted these about 8 years ago, and they are still holding up well.

Here are the details for reference (originally posted in 2010):

My black and silver concave plastic wheel center caps were peeling in places, so I decided to paint them. (I have a '99 996) I ordered the paints and brushes directly from TamiyaUSA (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...p?sub-id=60100)

My order:

Acrylic Mini X-18Semi Gl Black - 10ml Bottle Item# 81518 $2.30

Acrylic Mini X-7 Red - 10ml Bottle Item# 81507 $2.30

Acrylic Mini X-12 Gold Leaf - 10ml Bottle Item# 81512 $2.30

Pointed Brush Med - DC716 Item# 87016 $2.50

High Finish Pointed Brush - (Ultra Fine) Item# 87048 $5.25

Shipping: $6.00

I used the pointed medium brush for the flat areas, and the ultra fine brush AND a toothpick for the letters and detail areas, like the horse legs. If you are careful with the gold and red, you can use the black just for touch-up. I only painted black where it was necessary, and left the factory black in the other areas. A magnifying glass helped, too. I put a small amount of paint in a beer bottle cap for dipping, and some isopropyl alcohol in a second cap to clean brushes. I thinned the black paint with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol also, but not the gold or red. You can also clean the brushes with water.

If you mess up, you can clean up mistakes using a clean toothpick or a q-tip. It's best to do the gold and red, then let it dry overnight before doing the black touch-up work. I also did one cap start to finish before doing the other three. The second set came out better, since I had practice.

I let the black dry overnight, then did 3 coats of clearcoat spray at 20 minute intervals.


More DIY Tips:
Here are the steps and the items you'll need to complete this easy fixer upper.

1. Find a local hobby store or online and buy the following:
Tamiya Acrylic paint in the following colors, Semi Gloss Black, Red, Gold and you'll also need some thinner I just use the
Tamiya thinner. YOU MUST USE ACRYLIC as it holds it's color and after being shot with 3 coats of clear will last a long time!
1 Can of Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel CLEAR Pep-Boys
1 Set of hobby brushes small tipped (tight spaces on the wheel centers)

2. Approx. 2 hours of your time and bit of a steady hand but dont worry with a paper towel, thinner and a toothpick you can correct your errors if you cant stay inside the lines.

3. CLEAN the wheel centers a good dish soap or degreaser is best DRY COMPLETELY.

4. Start with the hard color 1st GOLD dont be put off it takes 2 coats and gold hobby paint is the worst color to apply just be patient after 1 coat dries apply the second and you'll see what I mean. Next do the RED. Then finally the BLACK. Set aside to dry for about 1/2 hour (have a Stella) then get out your clear coat and LIGHTLY apply 1 then 2 then 3 coats make sure you allow about 20 min for the clear to dry between coats.

The wheel centers have recessed portions for each color so it's easy to paint dip the color into the spot where it belongs.
frisbee91 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Painted Wheel Center Cap DIY


Contact Us - About Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: