Muffler change
#1
Muffler change
Hello to all:
I would like your collective advice. After hearing everyone talk about their happiness with the Fister D's, I am seriously thinking about making the switch. I spent some time with Darin on the phone today and he was great. I know this is not a performance mod, just for sound really and I am okay with that. the total cost is probably 1/3 the price of the fabspeed mufflers, etc., Darin answered my questions about the ceramic coating and I am leaning in that direction but, I would like your collective thoughts....pluses, minus, yada, yada, yada.
Also, since my baby ('03) only has 30K on the clock, I am thinking of attempting the switch-out myself..sending him mine, giving him the time to weld the "H" pipe and then have them coated and sent back to me. This way I get my low mileage "cans" back. My only convern is that I have them back and in place by the end of September as I am probably headed back to the track and would love to have these installed. I am somewhat mechanical, don't have a ton of tools but my baby sits in the garage and has dedicated space. So, how much of a challenge is it to remove them and then reinstall them? Any "tricky" issues I should know about, in advance, gaskets, etc.? I know there are a few of you in here who have done their own RMS seal and/or IMS bearings, but that is beyond my pay grade/level of expertise. The mufflers would seem to be about my (pre-school/3rd grade?) level...don't know.
Thankx, in advance for your help.
Scott
I would like your collective advice. After hearing everyone talk about their happiness with the Fister D's, I am seriously thinking about making the switch. I spent some time with Darin on the phone today and he was great. I know this is not a performance mod, just for sound really and I am okay with that. the total cost is probably 1/3 the price of the fabspeed mufflers, etc., Darin answered my questions about the ceramic coating and I am leaning in that direction but, I would like your collective thoughts....pluses, minus, yada, yada, yada.
Also, since my baby ('03) only has 30K on the clock, I am thinking of attempting the switch-out myself..sending him mine, giving him the time to weld the "H" pipe and then have them coated and sent back to me. This way I get my low mileage "cans" back. My only convern is that I have them back and in place by the end of September as I am probably headed back to the track and would love to have these installed. I am somewhat mechanical, don't have a ton of tools but my baby sits in the garage and has dedicated space. So, how much of a challenge is it to remove them and then reinstall them? Any "tricky" issues I should know about, in advance, gaskets, etc.? I know there are a few of you in here who have done their own RMS seal and/or IMS bearings, but that is beyond my pay grade/level of expertise. The mufflers would seem to be about my (pre-school/3rd grade?) level...don't know.
Thankx, in advance for your help.
Scott
#2
I've had mine on for about 2 months now, and I absolutely love them. I ended up buying mufflers from a fellow rennlister, and then I ultimately sold my original mufflers to another rennlister.
I did opt for the ceramic coating, for rust resistance, lower radiated heat, and they look cool! I'd do that again if I were to go through this process again.
The installation is pretty easy. Give yourself an afternoon and take your time. Here are a few tips from my experience:
- Use PB Blaster on all the bolts before attempting to break them loose. Use it liberally, and give it 30 minutes or so to soak in.
- Remove the rear bumper first. There's really no way to do this without removing it, so you may as well get it out of the way. It's quite easy to remove. It requires you to remove a series of screws, and the two rear bumperettes.
- Remove the heat shields under the bumpers. Again, only a few screws hold these on, and it is much easier without them.
- You'll need two sets of hands to do this job. My 15 year-old son helped, and it went smoothly.
- You'll need only very basic tools - metric wrenches, screwdrivers, allen wrenches. I think the most common sizes used were 10mm and 12mm, but the clamps for the tips are a little bigger - 14 or 15mm.
- When you go to remove the cans, keep the mounting bracket attached to the muffler and remove the three bolts that attach the bracket to the frame. You can then remove the muffler with the bracket attached all together. If you try to remove the muffler from the bracket, there isn't enough clearance for the long bolts that attache the muffler to the bracket.
- Don't tighten your tips until your bumper is back in place - this allows you to adjust them and get them in proper position before you tighten them.
- Polish your tips while you have them off. You don't normally get such great access to them, so you may as well take advantage of it. I used a Mother's chrome polishing ball (drill attachment) with metal polish.
- Have fun with this job - it's easy and the final results are dramatic!
Here are a few pics of my mufflers and during the installation:
I did opt for the ceramic coating, for rust resistance, lower radiated heat, and they look cool! I'd do that again if I were to go through this process again.
The installation is pretty easy. Give yourself an afternoon and take your time. Here are a few tips from my experience:
- Use PB Blaster on all the bolts before attempting to break them loose. Use it liberally, and give it 30 minutes or so to soak in.
- Remove the rear bumper first. There's really no way to do this without removing it, so you may as well get it out of the way. It's quite easy to remove. It requires you to remove a series of screws, and the two rear bumperettes.
- Remove the heat shields under the bumpers. Again, only a few screws hold these on, and it is much easier without them.
- You'll need two sets of hands to do this job. My 15 year-old son helped, and it went smoothly.
- You'll need only very basic tools - metric wrenches, screwdrivers, allen wrenches. I think the most common sizes used were 10mm and 12mm, but the clamps for the tips are a little bigger - 14 or 15mm.
- When you go to remove the cans, keep the mounting bracket attached to the muffler and remove the three bolts that attach the bracket to the frame. You can then remove the muffler with the bracket attached all together. If you try to remove the muffler from the bracket, there isn't enough clearance for the long bolts that attache the muffler to the bracket.
- Don't tighten your tips until your bumper is back in place - this allows you to adjust them and get them in proper position before you tighten them.
- Polish your tips while you have them off. You don't normally get such great access to them, so you may as well take advantage of it. I used a Mother's chrome polishing ball (drill attachment) with metal polish.
- Have fun with this job - it's easy and the final results are dramatic!
Here are a few pics of my mufflers and during the installation:
#6
I second the not removing the bumper. The stock cans come out pretty easily. I almost did the FisterDs, but bought a used set of Fabspeeds for about $500 shipped so I went that route. Fabs are great, but if you decide to go that route wait until a used set comes up.
#7
After doing it on my car, I honestly can't see how you could do it without removing the bumper. I guess if you have a proper lift and access to the underside of the car, it makes it easier. In my driveway, there was no way I was getting at those mufflers without removing the bumper. Luckily, the bumper is very easy to remove.
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#9
Nanock of the north... Keeper of Macallan thinks you should FORGET the cans and swap right into the CUP headers NO cats and muffler by pass!
Or just give me a call & the family will drive in for a day trip.. drop those babies on the ground for you (w/o taking the bumper off)....
Or just give me a call & the family will drive in for a day trip.. drop those babies on the ground for you (w/o taking the bumper off)....
#11
Excellent:
you guys rock! I appreciate the advice. I searched for bumper cover removal and didn't find anything in the posts/forums, but that could be because I didn't use the correct search terms. CW:, I couldn't agree more with the idea, but me thinks it could be too loud. These cans are not performance but more for sound, while the other mufflers, systems, etc., are supposed to add, what, hmmm, maybe 50 or 60 rwhp, right>???? LOL. I greatly appreciate the willingness to go the distance, but I was thinking about calling in the chip once the harnesses arrive, because that is going to involve a bit more assistance and experience. I figure I can try not to "butcher" the can replacement on my own. Still on the fence about the ceramics, though.
you guys rock! I appreciate the advice. I searched for bumper cover removal and didn't find anything in the posts/forums, but that could be because I didn't use the correct search terms. CW:, I couldn't agree more with the idea, but me thinks it could be too loud. These cans are not performance but more for sound, while the other mufflers, systems, etc., are supposed to add, what, hmmm, maybe 50 or 60 rwhp, right>???? LOL. I greatly appreciate the willingness to go the distance, but I was thinking about calling in the chip once the harnesses arrive, because that is going to involve a bit more assistance and experience. I figure I can try not to "butcher" the can replacement on my own. Still on the fence about the ceramics, though.
#13
Dennis - I removed mine on the 996 several times without removing the bumper while being on Rhino ramps - those low profile ramps.
As you lower the can, it will hit the very bottom edge of the bumper towards the back of the wheelwell. All you do is simply pull the bumper outward until the cans slide past and voila.
As you lower the can, it will hit the very bottom edge of the bumper towards the back of the wheelwell. All you do is simply pull the bumper outward until the cans slide past and voila.
#14
Basic mm wrenches, WD40 to soak the various bolts/nuts, a schematic diagram that is available on Rennlist of the exhaust system, a floor jack, some bandaids and a few cold beers, either an old blanket or cardboard to lay on while working. I was wary of this myself, but it really isn't so bad especially if your Porsche has only 30k on the odometer, rust shouldn't be that bad. GL