DIY - changing brakes (video tutorial)
#106
Former Vendor
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You only need to replace the rotors when they are worn to thin or have excessive cracking.
Van, the drill size for the M6 screw is 5 mm (use #10 drill... 0.193)
Van, the drill size for the M6 screw is 5 mm (use #10 drill... 0.193)
#107
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Thanks. sorry for all the noob questions, but how thin is too thin? I checked out the rear rotors and they don't seem to have any cracks or anything. Is there a guide out there that might help a novice like me judge if they need to be replaced?
thanks
thanks
#111
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Well, after being inspired to take on the job by Van's excellent videos, I finally got around to changing my brakes over this past Sunday - and I have to say, it really was as easy as everyone says. Here are my take-away observations I wanted to share with you guys:
1. Get the Porsche "repair hardware" kit - it's worth it! In addition to the fact that the retaining pin is encrusted with rust/barnacles/whatever that makes it just about impossible to push back into the caliper, the retaining springs really do lose their "pop" after a few years. I compared my old ones to the new ones, and the difference was quite noticeable!
2. To remove the brake wear sensors (if your car has them), firstly run a very small screwdriver on the sides to "pop" the latches, and then use needle nose pliers to pull them out.
3. If your brakes are very worn when you replace them (and thus the brake fluid has probably been topped up), pump the brake pedal after you do each wheel to ensure that brake fluid gets forced back into the calipers to avoid a messy overflow from your brake reservoir.
4. My first corner took me a little less than an hour, but each subsequent corner was about 20 minutes (not counting wheel removal).
5. I only encountered two stuck rotor screws - and the "impact driver" worked great on them.
Anyway, definitely a low-difficulty but rewarding job - I recommend you give it a try!
1. Get the Porsche "repair hardware" kit - it's worth it! In addition to the fact that the retaining pin is encrusted with rust/barnacles/whatever that makes it just about impossible to push back into the caliper, the retaining springs really do lose their "pop" after a few years. I compared my old ones to the new ones, and the difference was quite noticeable!
2. To remove the brake wear sensors (if your car has them), firstly run a very small screwdriver on the sides to "pop" the latches, and then use needle nose pliers to pull them out.
3. If your brakes are very worn when you replace them (and thus the brake fluid has probably been topped up), pump the brake pedal after you do each wheel to ensure that brake fluid gets forced back into the calipers to avoid a messy overflow from your brake reservoir.
4. My first corner took me a little less than an hour, but each subsequent corner was about 20 minutes (not counting wheel removal).
5. I only encountered two stuck rotor screws - and the "impact driver" worked great on them.
Anyway, definitely a low-difficulty but rewarding job - I recommend you give it a try!
#113
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No, I did both - the rotors were actually easier than the pads, really.
Seriously easy job. Like someone else said, I can't imagine how this could have been any simpler for a performance car like the Porsche.
Seriously easy job. Like someone else said, I can't imagine how this could have been any simpler for a performance car like the Porsche.
#114
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#117
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quick question. changing out my rear pads today, and was curious about the vibration dampeners. I have 2 different sizes, and before I get into it, was wondering how/where to put the various dampeners. In the video, there is no mention of it, and I cant seem to find any info online. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
#118
Burning Brakes
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quick question. changing out my rear pads today, and was curious about the vibration dampeners. I have 2 different sizes, and before I get into it, was wondering how/where to put the various dampeners. In the video, there is no mention of it, and I cant seem to find any info online. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
It is better to leave the paper covering the adhesive on until they are in place and then remove it with needle nose plyers.
#119
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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I don't have the dampers on my car, hence why they're not in the video... but I believe you'll find that the pistons in the calipers are different sizes - and that's why the dampers are different sizes.
#120
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Hey guys. just did my first pad replacement. thanks Van for the videos. they really helped. All went very smoothly until my first test drive. the brakes seem to work really well (only did the rears), but as i drive, I can hear them rubbing against the rotors. Is that a normal thing until they "break in"? It doesnt seem right to me, but I'm new to this whole thing. any insight? it's a pretty loud rubbing that I hear on both sides as I drive.