AndyK

Awesome videos Van! Just what I needed to get me to do my own pads eventually!
One question. When you push the pistons back in to be able to fit the new pads, is the brake fluid reservoir open or closed?

Van

The cap on the brake reservoir has a vent hole in it - as long as it's not full when you push the pads (pistons) back, only air will come out.

Some people will open a bleeder when they push the pistons back - I'm sure that works well, but it has the potential to be a little messy. If you do this, use a little length of hose going into a cup or bottle.

ivangene

86' pad swap = jack car, remove wheel, push calipers in, knock pins out, remove pads... SCREAM because you have the "other brake sensors... rant on RL, post some crap, get another beer, pet the dog, get another beer,...... I am sure there is a "put it back together step coming....................LATER!!

for now I am and

redridge

OK.... Im hoping mine lasts then.... what sucks is, once one goes, you know the other isnt to far behind.

ivangene

HI had a truck that chewed up 3 wheel bearings on one side before 30k miles, but I kept replacing them every time I heard the slightest noise, (they were dirt cheap and spindles are not) then it went to 180k miles and never had anothe issue?? just wierd... and none of the other bearing ever had an issue (I hauled tons and tons and tons of very heavy loads in the truck too?)

Jim Griffin

Great Video with some great tips! Great tip on the removal of the rotor using the two other screw holes using the 13mm. One thing I would add, would be to remove the top of the brake fluid resevoir and put a cloth around the top, in case of pushing fluid out when depressing the calipers. Usually, this would not be necessary, but someone might fill the resevoir between brake changes. Again, thanks for the great video and professional way you presented it!

Van

Why put on brake pad sensors? I don't recommend it on cars that are tracked... You're always doing tech inspections and keeping tabs on the status of the brakes. The sensors are just an added expense and hassle.

ivangene

at this point the "collective" says to just tie them off and run without.. I am tending to agree but will speak with my guys at the shop and see if they have an opinion too.

Nice thing is I am still 30% pad left, so its not like a "rush job"

but you are right Van

dnitake

Brembo is SO nice to work on. There's a 10mm brake line strain relief mount on mine that needs to undone before removing the caliper. Otherwise the weight of the caliper goes onto the brake line. Maybe I missed that in your vid. Thx for posting well done vid.

Orient Express

One thing I think your video missed is that on some 996/997 brakes, there are anti-squeal shims that fit into the caliper pistons and are glued to the outer surface of the pad. These shims prevent the brake pad from being removed unless one takes a putty knife and separates the shim from the pad.

On the front brakes the shims are on both inner and outer pads, and on the rears they are just on the inner pads.

Also I would like to recommend EBC "Red Stuff" Ceramic pads for routine street use. They are very quiet, very grippy, and make no dust at all.

Van

Good point on the shims. They have been removed on my car.

AndyK

Which model EBC Red Stuff pads should I get - front and rear. I only seem to find rear pads when I search.

Thanks.

Orient Express

For all 996/997 C2/C4 1999-2010 non-turbo non GT3

Fronts DP31515C

Rears DP31208C

AndyK

Cool, thanks!

jugger911

Great job Van, thanks for sharing man. I just watched them all in sequence and I'm not even planing on a brake change anytime soon. I'm such a nerd...