Notices
996 Forum
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: LN Engineering

DIY - changing brakes (video tutorial)

 
Old 08-20-2010, 09:05 PM
  #46  
AndyK
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
AndyK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 6,942
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Awesome videos Van! Just what I needed to get me to do my own pads eventually!
One question. When you push the pistons back in to be able to fit the new pads, is the brake fluid reservoir open or closed?
AndyK is offline  
Old 08-20-2010, 10:50 PM
  #47  
Van
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 11,875
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The cap on the brake reservoir has a vent hole in it - as long as it's not full when you push the pads (pistons) back, only air will come out.

Some people will open a bleeder when they push the pistons back - I'm sure that works well, but it has the potential to be a little messy. If you do this, use a little length of hose going into a cup or bottle.
Van is offline  
Old 08-20-2010, 11:01 PM
  #48  
ivangene
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16,326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

86' pad swap = jack car, remove wheel, push calipers in, knock pins out, remove pads... SCREAM because you have the "other brake sensors... rant on RL, post some crap, get another beer, pet the dog, get another beer,...... I am sure there is a "put it back together step coming....................LATER!!

for now I am and
ivangene is offline  
Old 08-20-2010, 11:14 PM
  #49  
redridge
Super User
 
redridge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ivangene View Post
its a roller bearing, not a tapered bearing... the tapered ones have a nut that pushes the bearing until it has the right amount of clearance, a roller bearing (like the IMS) has to be pressed in and is preset distances between the races and rollers
OK.... Im hoping mine lasts then.... what sucks is, once one goes, you know the other isnt to far behind.
redridge is offline  
Old 08-20-2010, 11:40 PM
  #50  
ivangene
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16,326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

HI had a truck that chewed up 3 wheel bearings on one side before 30k miles, but I kept replacing them every time I heard the slightest noise, (they were dirt cheap and spindles are not) then it went to 180k miles and never had anothe issue?? just wierd... and none of the other bearing ever had an issue (I hauled tons and tons and tons of very heavy loads in the truck too?)
ivangene is offline  
Old 08-21-2010, 12:42 AM
  #51  
Jim Griffin
User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Great Video with some great tips! Great tip on the removal of the rotor using the two other screw holes using the 13mm. One thing I would add, would be to remove the top of the brake fluid resevoir and put a cloth around the top, in case of pushing fluid out when depressing the calipers. Usually, this would not be necessary, but someone might fill the resevoir between brake changes. Again, thanks for the great video and professional way you presented it!
Jim Griffin is offline  
Old 08-21-2010, 10:53 AM
  #52  
Van
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 11,875
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ivangene View Post
86' pad swap = jack car, remove wheel, push calipers in, knock pins out, remove pads... SCREAM because you have the "other brake sensors... rant on RL, post some crap, get another beer, pet the dog, get another beer,...... I am sure there is a "put it back together step coming....................LATER!!

for now I am and
Why put on brake pad sensors? I don't recommend it on cars that are tracked... You're always doing tech inspections and keeping tabs on the status of the brakes. The sensors are just an added expense and hassle.
Van is offline  
Old 08-21-2010, 11:24 AM
  #53  
ivangene
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16,326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

at this point the "collective" says to just tie them off and run without.. I am tending to agree but will speak with my guys at the shop and see if they have an opinion too.

Nice thing is I am still 30% pad left, so its not like a "rush job"

but you are right Van
ivangene is offline  
Old 08-22-2010, 04:10 PM
  #54  
dnitake
User
 
dnitake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Brembo is SO nice to work on. There's a 10mm brake line strain relief mount on mine that needs to undone before removing the caliper. Otherwise the weight of the caliper goes onto the brake line. Maybe I missed that in your vid. Thx for posting well done vid.
dnitake is offline  
Old 08-23-2010, 12:04 PM
  #55  
Orient Express
User
 
Orient Express's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SF bay area
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Item video missed

One thing I think your video missed is that on some 996/997 brakes, there are anti-squeal shims that fit into the caliper pistons and are glued to the outer surface of the pad. These shims prevent the brake pad from being removed unless one takes a putty knife and separates the shim from the pad.

On the front brakes the shims are on both inner and outer pads, and on the rears they are just on the inner pads.

Also I would like to recommend EBC "Red Stuff" Ceramic pads for routine street use. They are very quiet, very grippy, and make no dust at all.
Orient Express is offline  
Old 08-23-2010, 12:25 PM
  #56  
Van
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 11,875
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Good point on the shims. They have been removed on my car.
Van is offline  
Old 08-24-2010, 02:53 PM
  #57  
AndyK
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
AndyK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 6,942
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Orient Express View Post
Also I would like to recommend EBC "Red Stuff" Ceramic pads for routine street use. They are very quiet, very grippy, and make no dust at all.
Which model EBC Red Stuff pads should I get - front and rear. I only seem to find rear pads when I search.

Thanks.
AndyK is offline  
Old 08-24-2010, 05:49 PM
  #58  
Orient Express
User
 
Orient Express's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SF bay area
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by AndyK View Post
Which model EBC Red Stuff pads should I get - front and rear. I only seem to find rear pads when I search.

Thanks.
For all 996/997 C2/C4 1999-2010 non-turbo non GT3

Fronts DP31515C

Rears DP31208C
Orient Express is offline  
Old 08-25-2010, 06:45 AM
  #59  
AndyK
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
AndyK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 6,942
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Cool, thanks!
AndyK is offline  
Old 08-25-2010, 06:46 AM
  #60  
jugger911
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
jugger911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Posts: 1,863
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Great job Van, thanks for sharing man. I just watched them all in sequence and I'm not even planing on a brake change anytime soon. I'm such a nerd...
jugger911 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: DIY - changing brakes (video tutorial)


Contact Us - About Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: