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DIY - changing brakes (video tutorial)

 
Old 07-26-2010, 04:36 PM
  #16  
GolfTango3
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Wow, this is awesome! I just bought new pads and rotors with the idea that this would be my first project.

Thanks for the great info!
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:36 PM
  #17  
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how much work was doing the SS lines? Any vid of that coming?

Great vids btw, thanks for posting!
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:51 PM
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This is the reason this Forum is so great... People are willing to share their mechanical knowledge on these fantastic cars. I will keep all your videos as reference as I know I will have to tackle these jobs sooner then later. Thanks so much putting these vids together... Cheers,
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:18 PM
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Pac996
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When torque wrenching stop after the first click indicating the torque pressure has been reached. Don't go for a second click or you get more than you wanted torque. Multiple clicks ouch!

Really nice to watch vids. Nice to get a look at how things go in there. I used to have the pads installed before sliding the calipers on. I figured it made sure the rotors wouldn't get hurt. I've even done stranger prying calipers off with the old pads still in them. It's good to get a look at what exactly is on the pistons you are compressing back into the calipers. You can do that easier with the caliper off before spraying brake cleaner to clean then compressing the pistons back in. It helps keep away from frozen pistons. Some wood pieces can help keeping pistons back while prying.

Great vids. Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:43 PM
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Excellent vids!
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by seanmcr6 View Post
how much work was doing the SS lines? Any vid of that coming?
I didn't take any video of changing the brake lines... but that is quite straight forward with the right tools (which are an 11mm flare nut wrench and a 10mm flare nut wrench.) Next time I bleed my brakes, I'll do a video on that.


Originally Posted by Pac996 View Post
When torque wrenching stop after the first click indicating the torque pressure has been reached. Don't go for a second click or you get more than you wanted torque. Multiple clicks ouch!
I disagree with you on the torque wrench comment. I've found that if you're slow and steady with your movement, multiple clicks does not tighten down the bolt any further. The "click" is a break-away action - and as long as the wrench movement is within that break-away, the force isn't enough to turn the bolt.

However, you are correct in saying that once the click is heard/felt, the operator can still over torque the bolt if he/she isn't careful. I've always been amazed at DE tech lines where people give lugnuts a good 10-15 degrees of extra rotation after the click of the wrench.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:40 PM
  #22  
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Very helpful for we neophytes concerning pads and rotors...thank you Van for your effort and information.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:25 PM
  #23  
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Van

You are the insert name of a great director of p-car maintenance. Simply awesome. I will be doing my own from here on.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:23 PM
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Van,
Want to help me do a center radiator install DIY tutorial? ;-)

Another masterpiece, btw.

-Jon
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:38 PM
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Everyone is too kind. Just trying to demystify what people pay $100s of for.


Originally Posted by Jon Moeller View Post
Van,
Want to help me do a center radiator install DIY tutorial? ;-)
I'm busy for the next several weekends, but I'd be happy to offer my help.
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:15 AM
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Very Informative and one heck of a professional video! Thank you Van!
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:23 AM
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Thanks for the awesome Vids. +1 for vids of the SS brake lines.
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:40 AM
  #28  
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Interesting, you're using mechanic gloves. I can never stand wearing gloves. Even the thin latex ones.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:48 PM
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Nice! Same for track pads except for the wear sensors - tie them up
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:20 PM
  #30  
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After watching the vids and knowing I had to replace the rotors at all corners (had some cracks migrating from the cross drilled holes) I decided to take on the project.

Ordered up the rotors from Suncoast in FLA. along with the new caliper bolts and screws that hold the rotors in place and some GT3 brake ducts (15 HP add at least)

Removal of the calipers and rotors are fairly easy (got to have a impact screw driver and 10mm allen head drive for the calipers). Putting them back on were a breeze as well.....except that the new caliper bolts are a 'star' drive not allen. I don't have a 'star' drive that large. Also as I'm putting the final rotor on the car.....clunk...clunk...she ain't gonna fit. Looked a little closer and realized that I was sent a 986 rotor by mistake. It is a smaller diameter and not cross drilled. I must have been blind when I pulled it out of the wrapper.

But the lessen of the day for me is...make sure the parts you ordered are what you got and thought you were getting. Should have laid all the parts out including the hardware before I put the car up on stands. Now it is 4 in the afternoon on a Sat. and I'm stuck. The wife has the other car so I will have wait for her and than get the new 'star' drive.

Suncoast is my first call on Monday. That is the only bad part. I was on my way in having this done in 3 hours and I was milking it. The Vid Van made gave me a visual that I knew I could do. Saved a bunch of cash too

These cars really are logical to work on......just need to get over the P-Car jitters.
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