Upper Strut Bearing - Need Help
#1
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Upper Strut Bearing - Need Help
I have been experiencing the creaking sound when the car is warm and turning the wheel.
Took the car to the local P Dealer to have a tech take a quick look. Took no more than 2 min and he told me I need an upper strut bearing. He stated that it is not that common and the creaking sound is the plastic rubbing together.
I searched the forum but did not find anything in the 996 forum.
Has anyone had this issue? Cost?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Ryan
Took the car to the local P Dealer to have a tech take a quick look. Took no more than 2 min and he told me I need an upper strut bearing. He stated that it is not that common and the creaking sound is the plastic rubbing together.
I searched the forum but did not find anything in the 996 forum.
Has anyone had this issue? Cost?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Ryan
#2
Drifting
I just completed the install of PSS10's on my car, which is a C4 so a little different, but I can shed some light in this for you. When the spring compresses, or you turn the steering wheel the spring twists a bit relative to the top strut mount. Porsche puts a bearing between the plates on the top of the spring and the strut mounting plate to allow for this movement. In the case of a 2WD the part number is 996.343.515.05 (this is the latest part number) and the bearing lists for $38.81, available at Porscheoemparts.com for $23.41 (also check Sunset and Suncoast but they don't have an on-line price look up).
Here is a link to a DIY for the ROW M030 install that will give you the basics on taking out the top of the strut.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...nsion-install/
Then you would just replace the bearing. In the case of my C4 I was able to clean and re-grease the bearing, but the C2 is a different so I don't know if you will be able to clean it. Not too hard of a DIY, a couple of hours each side if you have the tools. A good tech should be able to do each side in an hour or so, but they will charge you whatever the shop book says.
Let me know if I can be of more help.
Here is a link to a DIY for the ROW M030 install that will give you the basics on taking out the top of the strut.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...nsion-install/
Then you would just replace the bearing. In the case of my C4 I was able to clean and re-grease the bearing, but the C2 is a different so I don't know if you will be able to clean it. Not too hard of a DIY, a couple of hours each side if you have the tools. A good tech should be able to do each side in an hour or so, but they will charge you whatever the shop book says.
Let me know if I can be of more help.
#6
Drifting
If the price includes checking/resetting the alignment that is not a bad price. If it is just to do the bearng they are using book time, a good tech could do it quicker, heck I can do it quicker than that. However, that assumes no problems. With book time if there are problems you usually only get charged for the book time.
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#8
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This sounds like my problem...
1) Is there any chance that I have to replace the entire mount ($225), rather than just the bearing?
2) Should I do both sides while I'm at it for 'symmetry', or does it not matter?
Thanks!
1) Is there any chance that I have to replace the entire mount ($225), rather than just the bearing?
2) Should I do both sides while I'm at it for 'symmetry', or does it not matter?
Thanks!
#9
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I did not have to replace the entire mount. Just the bearing on one side was bad. But, I did both sides just to make sure.
I could not believe how much better the car drove after the repair. Definitely felt more tight.
I could not believe how much better the car drove after the repair. Definitely felt more tight.