Torontoworker

I'd think you'd want to score the DME that came with the updated motor to make everything as easy as possible. 99's don't have the MOST system so I don't know if you need a data net system or not on the 7.2 ver of software.

I know that there are a whole host of other sensors that the newer DME type reads which would have to be taken into account - more so if there is PSM involved and the orig chassis didn't have that option, (not may 99's do).

It maybe easy for a person like Jake to do this swap, but everything comes with a cost. I'm sure you could put an F1 engine in a 99 and there is always someone to say thats easy as well - so long as the bank draft clears of course...

GTA_G20

diff ball game,OP wanted to swap an '01 so 3.4 egas into 99 3.4 non egas. the 02+ 3.6 has 7.8 DME which needs to be incorporated to have the VC+ work correctly. 3.6 has the variable VC while the prior 3.4 VC is either on or off. If going to a 3.6 was as easy and swapping TB's. Id have my perma-grin on already

Dharn55

non e-gas 3.4 DME = 5.2 - Vario Cam
e-gas 3.4 DME = 7.2 - Vario Cam
e-gas 3.6 DME = 7.8 - Vario Cam Plus and MOST bus.

The biggest difference between the 5.2 and the 7.2 DME's is the e-gas, both are set up for Vario Cam. So the swap between these is basically just the Throttle Body and the Plenum. Swapping for a 3.6 Vario Cam Plus engine is far more complex. It needs the 7.8 DME to control the Vario Cam Plus, and the 7.8 is a MOST bus system, not compatible with much of the wiring, the instruments, etc. etc. Also has no return fuel line.

So for the DIY crowd stick with 3.4 cable and e-gas.

TomF

Reviving an old thread. I am considering putting in a lower mile 3.4 in my 2000 C4 Tip cab and am wondering if I need to get the exact same engine or if I can use a 3.4 from the same era, if I swap the ancillaries. My engine is at 125K and is getting a bit tired. I have found several non gas 99s for sale that might work. Also, does it make a difference whether the engine is a MT or Auto? Or a C4 or C2? Finding the exact same configuration might be a challenge.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
TomF

Macster

Ideally you would want the same engine. Same in the sense if the engine in your car is non E-Gas you want a non E-Gas engine. And if your car has Tip transmission you want a engine from a donor Tip equipped car. I seem to recall the two engines -- manual vs. Tip -- have some wiring harness differences, but don't quote me.

If you say get an E-Gas engine then you have to convert it to non E-gas by moving the non E-Gas hardware from the original engine to the new engine.

What it would take to make an engine from a manual equipped car into one suitable for a Tip equipped car I'm not at all able to say. Maybe not much but you should know before you leap...

BTW, the Pelican parts site has a section on engine swapping. I haven't checked but you could to see if this is covered.

Oh, is the engine in your car really *tired*? 125K miles is not that many miles and sometimes the tiredness of the engine is more in the mind of the owner than real.

TomF

Macster,

Thanks for your comments. My car developed an intermix issue a couple of years ago and has been sitting (flushed and drained) ever since. Family, work and a major house remodel have gotten in the way.

I suspect it is the usual head cracking issue that the 2000s were prone to. I have a spare set of heads, so I can either go the route of replacing one or both the heads, or do an engine refresh or rebuild. Alternatively, I can "drop" in a used engine. Next week, I am going to take it down to a reputable indy the has replaced just one head for a friend on his 3.4, solving the intermix issue. If it turns out to be a reasonable cost to remedy, I will probably go that route as the engine was really tight and trouble-free before the intermix issue.

Cheers,
TomF

m3driver

I find it funny the pcar guys call a dbw system egas

Macster

IIRC I think e-Gas is Porsche's name for the drive by wire throttle.

m3driver

It's still funny