DRL's on a 03 C4S...
#16
For some reason I can't find the fuse taps... Does anyone know where I can get these?
#17
Did you pay 200$ at canadian tire?
Because when I chose the Ottawa location 2 Canadian tire's came up at one VW restoration shop in Manotik. If i go to the VW guy, he doesn't charge anything... I just need to pass the inspection.
I'll try going to the guy at AutoImport for the DRL's... Where can I buy a child restraint anchor?
Because when I chose the Ottawa location 2 Canadian tire's came up at one VW restoration shop in Manotik. If i go to the VW guy, he doesn't charge anything... I just need to pass the inspection.
I'll try going to the guy at AutoImport for the DRL's... Where can I buy a child restraint anchor?
#18
Where can I buy a child restraint anchor?
Just ask AutoImport to help you with the RIV. Canadian Tire has the exclusive contract with RIV and AutoImport set it all up for me.
#19
Thanks, I will check them out shortly for the RIV inspection!
#20
I am the soon-to-be owner of a 2003 C4S and I intend to be hacking it with Yoseif's $10 hack. It sounds as though there have been reams of people who have used the $10 hack with the litronic headlights with no ill effects - some even install it only long enough to pass the RIV inspection and then remove it. I don't believe this should have any long-term ill effects.
I once modified the headlight harness on a 2004 Toyota Sienna to upgrade the headlights to HIDs. In doing this, as I'm a bit of an electrical nut, I discovered that the "feed" wire for normal halogen headlights and HIDs carries pretty much the same voltage, etc. (I metered it on my workbench) The difference with the HIDs, of course, is that the current gets amplified/modified by the ballast and that is why the voltage is so high at the headlight itself (and thus those yellow warning stickers all over the headlights!)
I'll be going up to Active Electronics in the next few days to find the necessary supplies.
I once modified the headlight harness on a 2004 Toyota Sienna to upgrade the headlights to HIDs. In doing this, as I'm a bit of an electrical nut, I discovered that the "feed" wire for normal halogen headlights and HIDs carries pretty much the same voltage, etc. (I metered it on my workbench) The difference with the HIDs, of course, is that the current gets amplified/modified by the ballast and that is why the voltage is so high at the headlight itself (and thus those yellow warning stickers all over the headlights!)
I'll be going up to Active Electronics in the next few days to find the necessary supplies.
#21
Congrats with the purchase!
You'll find all you need at a "the source" store. Install will take less than 15 minutes.
I removed my jumpers after inspection.
Good luck!
You'll find all you need at a "the source" store. Install will take less than 15 minutes.
I removed my jumpers after inspection.
Good luck!
I am the soon-to-be owner of a 2003 C4S and I intend to be hacking it with Yoseif's $10 hack. It sounds as though there have been reams of people who have used the $10 hack with the litronic headlights with no ill effects - some even install it only long enough to pass the RIV inspection and then remove it. I don't believe this should have any long-term ill effects.
I once modified the headlight harness on a 2004 Toyota Sienna to upgrade the headlights to HIDs. In doing this, as I'm a bit of an electrical nut, I discovered that the "feed" wire for normal halogen headlights and HIDs carries pretty much the same voltage, etc. (I metered it on my workbench) The difference with the HIDs, of course, is that the current gets amplified/modified by the ballast and that is why the voltage is so high at the headlight itself (and thus those yellow warning stickers all over the headlights!)
I'll be going up to Active Electronics in the next few days to find the necessary supplies.
I once modified the headlight harness on a 2004 Toyota Sienna to upgrade the headlights to HIDs. In doing this, as I'm a bit of an electrical nut, I discovered that the "feed" wire for normal halogen headlights and HIDs carries pretty much the same voltage, etc. (I metered it on my workbench) The difference with the HIDs, of course, is that the current gets amplified/modified by the ballast and that is why the voltage is so high at the headlight itself (and thus those yellow warning stickers all over the headlights!)
I'll be going up to Active Electronics in the next few days to find the necessary supplies.
#22
I just did Yoseif's DRL hack, and hot damn, it works exactly as advertised! I have a 2003 C4S with bi-xenons. It is "true" DRL, in that only the main headlights come on, nothing else (i.e. no tail or fog lights, and the gauges don't light up or anything like that either).
Does anyone know if there is a negative long-term effect from using the "hack"? If I leave it on too long, will it fry anything important? Or is it basically harmless? If someone could let me know, that would be great. Otherwise, I will follow the comments of one of the other posters here and just remove it once I get my Canadian "papers".
Thanks!
Does anyone know if there is a negative long-term effect from using the "hack"? If I leave it on too long, will it fry anything important? Or is it basically harmless? If someone could let me know, that would be great. Otherwise, I will follow the comments of one of the other posters here and just remove it once I get my Canadian "papers".
Thanks!
#23
I just did Yoseif's DRL hack, and hot damn, it works exactly as advertised! I have a 2003 C4S with bi-xenons. It is "true" DRL, in that only the main headlights come on, nothing else (i.e. no tail or fog lights, and the gauges don't light up or anything like that either).
Does anyone know if there is a negative long-term effect from using the "hack"? If I leave it on too long, will it fry anything important? Or is it basically harmless? If someone could let me know, that would be great. Otherwise, I will follow the comments of one of the other posters here and just remove it once I get my Canadian "papers".
Thanks!
Does anyone know if there is a negative long-term effect from using the "hack"? If I leave it on too long, will it fry anything important? Or is it basically harmless? If someone could let me know, that would be great. Otherwise, I will follow the comments of one of the other posters here and just remove it once I get my Canadian "papers".
Thanks!
I like your Avatar! Have you seen the episode when they went to Romania!! Pretty nice! They found the "best road ever" there...
#24
Thanks for the feedback! Seems like most people just leave it in for the inspection, and then pull it. I looked at the electrical chart / fuse map, and it seems that the jumped fuse (heated seats) is of similar amperage as the headlights.
Yes, I did see that episode of Top Gear, where they drove that road through the mountains that goes nowhere, very cool!
Yes, I did see that episode of Top Gear, where they drove that road through the mountains that goes nowhere, very cool!
#25
As an aside here is a dirt cheap way of doing the DRL hack with stuff you probably have at home already.
https://sites.google.com/site/996drlhack/
My heated seat fuse was 25A and the one jumped to was 15A
https://sites.google.com/site/996drlhack/
My heated seat fuse was 25A and the one jumped to was 15A
Last edited by Not the Stig; 10-15-2010 at 10:37 AM. Reason: link correction