10 GT3

For what? Street or track? With what other brake mods? What type of bite do you like: quick or smooth?

For the track there is not a single one pad fits all. I use a lot of cooling (RSR front and GT2 rear brake scoops) and like a lot of initial bite. I also don't care as much about rotor wear, so Performance Friction PF01s are the best pad for my car setup and driving style.

For the street, it is hard to be Mintex Reds. They are cheap, quiet, good cold and dust a lot less than the OEM Textar pads.

Yes, your car has break wear sensors. They are good to have if you don't monitor your pads. A lot of people just modify burn up ones to just fool the computer to turn the light off. They should be mentioned in your owner's manual,

Jake Ok

I noticed some of the members out here mix their pads between front and rear. Should the better pads go in the front or rear?

himself

If just doing pads, you adjust bias to the rear by putting the more aggressive pad (softer pad) in the rear. If you want more front bias, you put the more aggressive pad in the front.

Since these cars are front biased from the factory [just look at the size of your calipers], most folks try to balance the bias by putting more aggressive pads at the rear.

You can also adjust bias by changing calipers (number of pistons and/or piston size) or rotor diameter. Proportionate changes are in order or you risk damage to your master cylinder or worse real world braking performance.

However, this is really only an issue for the track.

-td

Jake Ok

If the stock factory is front baise, there must be a reason for that...so why would one try to balance the front and rear.

LVDell

For the street, the bias is fine as you are not getting heat into them like the track. However, if you have ever been on track, then you will know why you want more bias in the rear. When you are eating through multiple sets of front pads and rotors and your rear pads and rotors still look brand new and never seem to be changed the answer is very obvious.....BALANCE!

Jake Ok

Now Im really confused....as per the thread comments, aggressive pads eats away rotors faster so if you have more aggressive pads in the rear, wouldn't the rear rotors be chewed up too???

Veloce Raptor

You mean Performance Friction PFC01's, right?









Professional Racing and Driving Coach

10 GT3

You are correct. I corrected my post above.

LVDell

If you use "aggressive" pads (i.e, track pads) on the street they will eat the rotors away faster since you are not using them in their proper temp. It's very important for longevity of your braking system as well as your pads to match the pad to the use. Street pads on the street, track pads on the track. Further, using a little temp paint on track will go a long way to maximizing your proper pad choice.

Lastly, and I think it's been mentioned already, is proper brake cooling.

ivangene

???
what is this now

LVDell

Trust me, you don't want it

Seriously though, it's a paint that can read up to about 1500F and the color of the paint changes based on the temp your rotors reach during a session. Then you can marry up the temp to the proper pad selection. If you are spot on on pads but still getting outside the optimal temp (too high) then you can also discover cooling issues and address them as well.

ivangene

will the knowledge growth never end!!

LVDell

Nope

himself

You should also remember that properly bedded track pads [e.g. pagids] create a transfer layer on the rotor which actually reduces rotor wear [relatively speaking] to use on the street. On the street, you are using the abrasive qualities of the pad to stop the car, which inherently eats metal.

[edit] I used the caliper stickers instead of the paint. Worked well for me as well.

-td

ciaroserich

Anyone used Textar brake pads? I want to hear about this pad quality. I want some of the effective guide or suggestion from your personal experience. Is it worth to buy?
Or I should buy hawks? (Accourding to this thread few people answer.) If so then why?