IMS retrofit problem
#46
Jake, I am one of your clients.
I purchased the special extracting bearing tool, and 2 packages (bundle) of spin oil adaptor + billet oil filter + magnetic drain plug from you for a friend of mine and me
I'm going to do the retrofit, but I finally decided to proceed to do a similar task :
I ordered to make a reinforced hand made bearing support to a professional lathe operator. He's going to make a 12 mm high quality steel bolt instead of the 8 mm OEM bolt, and asked him to adapt the 3 flange end piece to the new bolt caliber as showed before in other message (from soloporscher barracuda).
This is a pic in which you can see the bearing support design:
I'll get it done tomorrow, and after that, I'll leave my car to my confident specialist mechanic.
I'm going to report this "custom made retrofit kit installation", and you'll have news...
After reading and talking to several oil experts, I decided to complete "the engine protection" with Valvoline Racing 5W50
I'll never use Mobil 1 at all. There is a huge difference.
Another excellent oil to protect your engine is Motul 300V 5W40
Carles is a very high reputed soloporsche fellow, and we are very glad to follow his explanations.
regards from Spain
I purchased the special extracting bearing tool, and 2 packages (bundle) of spin oil adaptor + billet oil filter + magnetic drain plug from you for a friend of mine and me
I'm going to do the retrofit, but I finally decided to proceed to do a similar task :
I ordered to make a reinforced hand made bearing support to a professional lathe operator. He's going to make a 12 mm high quality steel bolt instead of the 8 mm OEM bolt, and asked him to adapt the 3 flange end piece to the new bolt caliber as showed before in other message (from soloporscher barracuda).
This is a pic in which you can see the bearing support design:
I'll get it done tomorrow, and after that, I'll leave my car to my confident specialist mechanic.
I'm going to report this "custom made retrofit kit installation", and you'll have news...
After reading and talking to several oil experts, I decided to complete "the engine protection" with Valvoline Racing 5W50
I'll never use Mobil 1 at all. There is a huge difference.
Another excellent oil to protect your engine is Motul 300V 5W40
Carles is a very high reputed soloporsche fellow, and we are very glad to follow his explanations.
regards from Spain
Please do not modify the kit, doing so could compromise the entire effort. Bigger isn't better.
#48
Anyone confer with the following quote? I am getting ready to do the IMS upgrade and wanted to know if I need to check for TDC 1 or TDC 4 after locking TDC. My documentation is saying TDC1.
Quote:
The only way I know for sure is to pull the cam plugs and check, Jake might know another way. But if you are only doing the IMS flange/upgrade it should not matter if 1 is TDC or 4 is TDC.
Rick
The only way I know for sure is to pull the cam plugs and check, Jake might know another way. But if you are only doing the IMS flange/upgrade it should not matter if 1 is TDC or 4 is TDC.
Rick
#49
Back to his original mistake,
Why cant he pull the tensioners, put the flang back on. Put the tenstions back in? Do the chains become that loose that they have jumped teeth at this point?
Why cant he pull the tensioners, put the flang back on. Put the tenstions back in? Do the chains become that loose that they have jumped teeth at this point?
#50
#51
I was just asking me the same question. But I supose it's only to be completly sure, isn't it?
#52
So you are replacing the HD center stud that came with the bearing kit? I would strongly recommend against that as the unit thats provided is NOT the OEM bolt, it was designed especially for the retrofit bearing kit.
Please do not modify the kit, doing so could compromise the entire effort. Bigger isn't better.
Please do not modify the kit, doing so could compromise the entire effort. Bigger isn't better.
My bearing support is custom made
The bearing I'm going to use is a single row hybrid ceramic from SKF with the same meassure as the OEM one
And I'll get the 3 flange piece modified to being passed through the 12 mm bolt
I'm not modifying your kit
Thanks Jake
Sorry, I pulled the attention of your question
#54
If you put it back in this way, turn it over by hand and see what you have. Sure would be nice if someone could elaberate and share their knowledge on this that knows the internals of the engine a little more than you or I.
#55
If the engine is rotated without tensioners in place the cam timing will be compromised, more than likely. If the tensioners are removed but the engine or camshafts are not rotated the timing should stay OK.
BUT my recommendation has to be that the cam timing be verified. Generally when the IMS ends up in a position like what has been pictured the timing must be reset. These engines have very little piston/ valve clearance and timing deviations must be taken seriously before start up.
BUT my recommendation has to be that the cam timing be verified. Generally when the IMS ends up in a position like what has been pictured the timing must be reset. These engines have very little piston/ valve clearance and timing deviations must be taken seriously before start up.
#56
Jake thank you. You always seem to proceed with caution when giving advice and I understand why. All a person can do is listen to what you have to say and make his choices from there.
If he does get the flang back on, if he turns it by hand 2+ rotations and doesnt get interfearance, is it safe to say he may be ok? Or can their be interfearance when the engine is at RPM that is not there when turing by hand?
If he does get the flang back on, if he turns it by hand 2+ rotations and doesnt get interfearance, is it safe to say he may be ok? Or can their be interfearance when the engine is at RPM that is not there when turing by hand?
#60
Damn you vario cams!
I damn thee!