kst_77

Macster - the plugs were replaced by a shop that I do not trust, will get my new tech to have a look and will keep the driving local. My around America trip is not until September anyway.

Will slowly drive it to work in a week or so provided everything is fine (25 miles). Thank you for all the help.

Regards

redridge

thats sez alot right there...

ivangene

isnt there an old thread called..... my car had a wierd problem and fixed itself?

Pac996

Valves sticking upsets engine performance since 100% of operation depends on them being in tune.
Injectors getting gummed up from sitting around not running fouls things up. You can go either sticking to keep adding fuel or not opening enough.
Water and other contamination in fuels doesn't pass easy through fuel injectors causing major problems.
Even gas stations once in a while sell bad batches of fuel. Water will even completely lock an injector up not allowing anything to pass when the injector isn't even sticking. I imagine heating the engine can help clear water from injectors.
Fuel pumps before going out can play intermitent problems like yours. I never should of mentioned that one. Best to not run fuel injected engines below a 1/4 tank to keep air from getting in the pumps which burns the pump out since the pump relies on fuel to keep it cool.

I'm glad your car is running good now. After a good running period hopefully the mystery wont ride with you as much as an impending fear. Some of us have been there.

Macster

redridge sums it up nicely.

I'd say have tech you trust look at this sooner rather than later. If plug loose it can ruin the threads in the head from moving around.

I'd not not delay having a trusted tech specifically eliminate wrong plugs, or plug, loose plug (or plugs), loose or bad or wrong coil packs, etc.

In fact, give the labor cost is the larger portion of the bill I'd just have him replace all 6 plugs with new ones of the proper brand, type.

At this time he can then ensure they're all the same (I've seen plugs mis-boxed!) and installed correctly (properly torqued down) and each coil pack is securely connected to its spark plug.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Macster

Valves just don't stick if stem not bent (this can happen if engine overreved and valves hit pistons... I might add a bent valve stem is preferrable to having the head snap off which usually happens) or valve spring not broken. Even with a broken valve spring as long as the spring exerts enough force to keep the valve keeper snug and the valve spring retainer in place a valve just doesn't stick.

If spring doesn't do this a sticking valve is the least of your problems.

The other stuff you mention is possible. Water in gas can result in a scored injector which will not create a correct spray pattern and in severe cases not fully shut closed. (Water in fuel can quickly ruin a diesel injector -- and on the way to the injector ruin the fuel pump -- which is why diesel fuel filters have a water trap.)

Sincerely,

Macster.

kst_77

Will keep driving around and report if there is any problem. thank you everyone.

Barn996

Why don't you trust that shop or did I miss something?

kst_77

I started the car yesterday evening and though i heard a faint knocking again. So today morning I recorded it. The larger file that is attached takes a while to start but looks like I managed to capture the sound.

I also did move away from the car (Macster) and the second recording is of that. After a while the sound just disappears.

I am confused???

Thank you for the help

Youtube video below

Shark Attack

I'm not downloading that.... last time I did that I spent 3 days fixing my PC from a virus. Post it on YOU TUBE.

I woudl have the IMSB checked. Faint knocking HAS been reported prior to IMSF...

kst_77

Here are the youtube videos, please give the first on 10 seconds before you hear the engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QDzTfW5Sk0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jkWiNkbLvo

Pac996

I don't have anything for playing those files.

Given the way it happens it seems like a lack of lube when it clanks or clicks before getting lubed? When you start the car and hear that noise just run the rpms at 14,000 for a few seconds. What happens is the extra rpms for a short period gets the lube distributed faster. Some performance engines have a program that reads the temp and determines the length of higher rpms at start accordingly. Two objects metal to metal or plastic will make clicking and snapping noises when they break loose since they aren't lubed. I wont call it sticking because Macster wont like that

If you aren't getting an initial oil pressure of 5 bars that could be a problem. I mostly think after the car sits the oil drains into the sump and just needs to reach the cams and valves before the noise ends.

Some cars just don't start happy Try cleaning the MAF and making sure the air filter is clean so the electronics aren't having to adjust around irregular conditions.

Oops now I see youtube videos and it sounds like lack of oil at start. Do the 14,000 rpms trick.

What ever you do make sure you are happy for the weekend.

kst_77

Will try the 14,000 rpms trick tomorrow morning and post the verdict, thank you.

Pac996

Oh sheeze I mean 1,400rpms. Hehehe I've got a bike that does 14,000 so it kind of didn't register as a strange thing.

Yah 1,200-1,400rpms a second or two after start when you hear it then do the 1,400 for a 3 seconds or so.

kst_77

Yes :-) i figured. Whats funny is that earlier the sound did not exist in idle and only started at above 1500 rpm. But now the sound is there in idle and no sound on acceleration. Thanks