MessyMarvin

I had all the records for a 2001 C4 sent to me, it has 43k miles. The dealer tech noted the car needs rear tire (I already detected that) and that the RMS had a slight leak. When I spoke to him he said it is not uncommon, especially for a 2001, any thoughts on this????

The dealer already performed an Oil Change and flushed the Brake Fluid.

When I stated my concern regardless of what the head tech said I was told they could quote a new RMS for me.

Also they want a $1000 deposit to do a DME check, is it that difficult to do???

ivangene

did you have the selling dealer do the PPI??

slight RMS leak is leverage for getting a better price. walking away from such a minor issue doesnt sound right to me.

I would not leave a deposit unless I was rock solid on what happens to the deposit after DME and what they thought they needed a deposit for in the first place.... to show you are serious? ya... OK but it is a refundable deposit for ANY REASON including "I dont want the car anymore....because I want a pick up now"

dont have the same place do your PPI as you are buying the car from

Mabuhay

Don't walk...run!

MessyMarvin

I did not do PPI, I would go to another shop for that. This was noted on the records the dealer sent to me. I would definately use it as leverage. After reading on the RMS I guess it is pretty common and I would just have to add oil every now and then like most P-car owners have to do. I would then get all the updates when it was time to do the clutch.

The records also show the Interm Shaft Seal and Crankshaft Oil Seal were replaced at 21k miles.

I think I may just move on, timing is not good anyway. I would rather buy after I have a better idea on what my bonus is going to be and I our fiscal year ends at the end of January so we have 5 weeks to go.

SH || NC

A deposit to read the DME? Wierd. If you do the RMS, might as well do the clutch. Others can add more. GL.

C4CRNA

RMS is not a big problem.I would make them replace it before I bought the car. aprox $800
One rear tire! They should be replaced in pairs so that should be done also.
They are testing your intent to buy requiring a deposit.
Might be a pain to get it back if you decide you don't want the car.I
would want an agreement in writing on that one. Should only be an hour of labor.

ivangene

AWE - long distance buying ?

so they sent the records, GOOD - shows a small leak found, OK
they want a deposit to release the car for more checking... OK.... set it up, and move forward if you are interested in the car.

MessyMarvin

Not long distance, I drove the car. Sorry, I meant to type it needed rear tires, as in 2 of them.

I agree if I give the deposit it will be hard to get back, I have been through that before and do not want to do it again.

ClickClickBoom

If you are slightly interested in the car negotiate a low offer. Include in the price all work to be performed prior to sale. If they take the offer great. If not walk away, since you are not in a hurry. If the car is still there in five weeks. Go back and haggle again.

Barn996

=1. Good advice.

rwiii

Is this car uniquely equipped or color combo? If yes and you want it then take your time on the negotiation. If it's a common car than don't put up with the hassels and find another one. There are jillions of 996's for sale everywhere.

Macster

The only issue with the leaking RMS is that a new one might not long stay leak free if the leak is due to the crankshaft being out of position. SOP for the RMS/IMS "leak" fix is to check the crankshaft position and if it found out of position to replace the engine.

This out of position condition rare but it was not too rare that Porsche had a special tool (several in fact) made and shipped to each dealer so the dealer could check for this condition.

The RMS could be leaking simply because the car not driven very much. But you want to know. The only solution to an out of position crank is an engine replacement.

As for DME and a $1000 deposit this is just BS. Dealer -- to take its side -- is testing you to see how serious you are. It costs the dealer maybe an hour's labor (WAG) to check the DME (I assume check/read it for over rev events is what you are wanting done), so the dealer's not out a lot of you walk.

But the real thinking here is by getting your deposit money the dealer gains some leverage on you (it has $1000 of your money!) and you lose some leverage and are less likely to shop elsewhere. Thus the dealer has taken you out of the comparison shopping mode and is moving you towards the buying a car from it mode.

(You can call another dealer's service department and ask what this would cost to see how much of that deposit is to cover the labor cost and how much is just intended to gain leverage over you.)

Maybe you need to walk away from this car? Up to you, if it still meets your standards.

I'd maybe offer a "deposit" of $100, fully refundable within 3 business days if you decide you do not want the car. Get this in writing!

If you leave a deposit though you need to have a pretty good idea you're going to want to buy the car unless the RMS leak turns out to be a bad crank or if the DME check turns up bad news and if a PPI by another qualified shop turns up some valid and good reason -- you missed -- to reject the car and move on.

The "deposit" tactic also has the benefit of distracting you and perhaps making you focus on that and not on ensuring to your 100% satisfaction the car is worthy of this effort, that you wouldn't be better walking away and begin your search anew.

Remember your goal: To locate a suitable/desirable/acceptable car and buy it for a price both you and the seller can agree upon.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Mabuhay

$1000 to do a DME dump is heresy. I paid $300 to do a full PPI including a DME dump.

What the dealer is wanting is for you to chalk up $1000 so that when you "walk" due to what you will most likely find in the DME dump, they would keep the $1000.

I agree that if you do pay ANY deposit, that you have in writing that you get it back 100% for any reason AND that you get it back immediately.

A friend of mine did get his deposit back 100% in similar scenario...2 months later and after several threatening letters and phone calls.

Seriously, save yourself the headache. This car seems to have way too much drama to start...

MessyMarvin, I just realized you're in Boston like me... PM me if you want to talk!

russo

Walk away, if the dealer is insisting on a deposit. To run a DME takes them very little effort.

PTEC

I wouldn't walk from the car because its got a rear main leak. If you don't want a 996 that had a rear main leak at one point or another you probably would have to rule out, IMO 75% of them! If the car doesn't have the newest style seal, then its no big deal. Negotiate a lower price or slap a new seal in when you do the clutch eventually.

However, requiring a $1000 dollar deposit to read out the DME is ridiculous and I wouldn't deal with any place that wanted that. I would refuse that flat out.