I'm gearing up to get the tranny out of the car and was wondering if the scissor jack is needed or do the adapters that attach to your regular floor jack actually work? $50 difference so it's worth the question.

TIA.

 

tranny jack is safer because it has a wider wheel spacing with better pivoting - that said I helped do one with 2 cheap floor jacks and some wood blocks (2 people as well) - in my youth I just HeManned them out (but I was much stronger before I threw my back out)

If I was by myself I would use a tranny jack

PS you can rent a good jack for a couple days pretty cheap (check your local rental outfit)

 

May I ask why you are removing the transmission?
....Rickker

 

I heard that some Porsches had a golden ticket in the bell housing.


J/K No I have a weird noise coming from the area and I know the clutch is getting worn and has slipped a couple times (rare). But I'm betting on the throwout bearing regarding the noise...re:Name that engine whistle (LINK)

 

Go and get a Motorcycle/ATV jack. I have a nice craftsman 1500lb 19 lift, wide base and top. Works great on transmissions and engines.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...Lift+Equipment

Rick
99 996C4
87 944S

 

 

I used a transmission jack looking exactly like the one on your picture to replace the gearbox of my 996. It worked really well. One of the feature I really enjoyed is that you can tilt the plate on which the gbox is sitting, which is very helpful when you reassemble everything. Not sure the other one has it.
Another point I would consider is the overall height of the jack. I had some trouble to take the gbox away from the work area because I couldn't lift my car high enough. I fixed the problem by using a pallet on which I put the car jack... This was merely enough. So if a dedicated trans jack is even just 1/2 inch thinner, it's well worth an extra $50.

 

Is there a transmission removal DIY procedure around somewhere? I didn't see one on Renntech.
....Rickker

 

Can find the factory manual for it here: http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Step by step RMS replacement (including transmission drop) with photos shown here: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php

 

Thanks Dave!! This is exactly what I was looking for.

...Rickker

 

Thanks Dave. Great information.

Nghia

 

I think I'm doing this after the New Years run. 20+ cars going right now..... And I have to figure out how to brace the engine.....

 

Be careful with the c-speedracing RMS procedure. Some of the stuff in there is wrong, some is really dangerous. The manuals on cannel are correct but for the 99 model. If you really want to know the official and latest instructions, you should consider www.alldatadiy.com. Costs a few dollars for the registration, but if you're willing to do some serious work on your car, that's certainly money very well spent.

 

I noticed that they pulled the IMS cover off and didn't have a problem like one of the posters here who ended up living in a nightmare for days.

I down loaded that manual and will go by that to get it out....best possible way to do it....

 

If you are going to take off the IMS flange, which you should do to check out the bearing once the trans is off, remember to take out the chain tensioners, particularly the 1-3 cylinder, IMS to Cams and the IMS to Crank. Also, remember to lock the enigne at TDC. If you remove the flywheel to do this you are supposed to use new flywheel bolts, and will need an angle guage to retorque them coorectly.