Ignition key hard to turn when cold?
#31
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I had the the same issue past days. it was early morning time when i was about to leave for my office in Al Satwa i already had short time and then this ignition stuck and wont let my car to start. well somehow i managed to start the car and reached the office. i had to call Dubai locksmith to resolve this issue as i did not know that it was just rusty and nothing else. :\
#32
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Argh, now my locks are demanding dignity? Unacceptable!!!
I noticed that after I take the key out of the ignition it takes a good 5-10 seconds until I can hear the spring loaded steering wheel lock portion kick out. Since that is purely mechanical I think I'll try to spray some lube in there: around where the ignition pistol meets the steering column. Worse case I can take the whole ignition assembly out as I've had it out before and replace parts.
Thanks
I noticed that after I take the key out of the ignition it takes a good 5-10 seconds until I can hear the spring loaded steering wheel lock portion kick out. Since that is purely mechanical I think I'll try to spray some lube in there: around where the ignition pistol meets the steering column. Worse case I can take the whole ignition assembly out as I've had it out before and replace parts.
Thanks
Also, I did try using 3 in 1 PTFE, using the liquid on key, plunge it 5 times, wipe, reapply, repeat. This didn't change anything. I am considering a blast of contact cleaner in the ignition mechanism to see if that might help. I figure I could use masking tape and setup a cover so as not to damage the dash or plastics. Anyone try this? I saw someone used MAF with some degree of success.
Last edited by ~Porsche; 07-19-2018 at 11:21 AM.
#33
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I am considering having the ignition itself replaced, but I want to understand why this is happening before paying to have that done. I replaced the electrical part myself, but I would probably have the ignition mechanism done. The dealer gets $915, and the indy Porsche shop gets $775. It looks like the later model Porsche part is about $250, so I figure they get a ~$500-600 install fee. My fear is that if I have it done, I am not convinced it will solve the problem. .
#34
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Thanks for the input Cully. I figure I will have to replace it, but this morning I thought if i was going to replace it anyway, I would give one last thing a try. I bought a can of CRC QD electronic cleaner, and a little tube of dry graphite powder. I had hoped to get the super fine graphite, but both autozone and advance were out of it, so I bought it at Lowes. I got the shopvac out, and put the smallest end on the hose, and I then taped off most of the opening down to about the size of a dime. I then put the spray tube into the nozzle of the contact cleaner, and turned on the shopvac. I held the vacuum tube right at the keyhole. I sprayed a good shot of the cleaner into the lock while immediately sucking it out with the shop vac placed at the key opening. I couldn't believe the large black chunks of crud that came out of the lock that I could see getting sucked into the vacuum. I figure all of the little bits of metal from the key wearing down were in there as well. The nice thing about this contact cleaner is it doesn't spray out too powerfully, plus it is meant for electronics and plastics. The MAF and brake cleaner have acetone in them, which could harm the ignitions guts, plus with the crazy powerful stream those products shoot out, it would be hard to prevent it from back-splashing out onto your leather or dash, where it most likely would do bad things. I did the contact cleaner spray and vac thing about 10 times. I would start with the end of the red spray tube right at the very opening of the keyhole and started spraying, and then pushed the tube into the lock as far as it would go while continuing to spray, with constant vacuum right at the keyhole opening, trying to get in in higher and lower on each try. I used full 2-3 second sprays. I then put the key in a few times, and turned it, and then redid the spray and vac another 3 or 4 times. I waited a few mins for the cleaner to fully evaporate, and I then shot a few squeezes of the graphite powder into the lock. I worked the key in and out a bunch of times, and then turned the key a few times. It now turns freely, and amazingly as soon as I remove the key I get the "clunk", which had taken a couple of minutes to happen previously. I put the key in and turned it, and removed it probably 30 times, partly to get the graphite worked in, and partly due to the excitement of the mechanism seeming to function properly. I will have to see if it keeps working well, but for now it seems to be good to go. One other note, it is about 40 degrees in my garage right now, and the sticking issue was much more pronounced in the colder weather. With the procedure I did, even in the cold, it is turning freely. It is nice that the remote key FOB now locks the doors. I have had to lock the doors with the key for some time now, as the sticky key cylinder didn't allow the remote lock to work. And finally, be safe if you use a flammable spray, and suck the vapors through a shopvac. I put the shop vac motor outside as far away from me as I could get it.
Last edited by ~Porsche; 03-13-2018 at 06:24 PM.
#35
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Thanks for the post, and I think this may be the perfect answer to fixing the "cold stuck" ignition switch. My ignition lock felt like it was hitting something when I tried turning the key. It was so tight I was concerned I might damage the key or the lock. I sprayed the CRC a few times and the key finally moved. I used a bulb syringe with a red plastic spray tube taped to the end (off a can of brake cleaner) to try to suck out the excess fluid. The CRC evaporates very quickly, so there is no residue. After several minutes of giving short sprays, removing the excess and dirt, and letting it dry, the key turned very easily. I used maybe an ounce of the CRC. After letting it sit ten minutes to make sure the CRC had dried, I used some powdered graphite in the lock. Now the switch works like new. I hear the "click" when I take the key out, and the warned bell stops immediately. After I did this, I found a tech forum in Excellence (May, 2010, issue 182) by Tony Callas and Tom Prine. They suggest spraying ignitions with a cleaner that contains the dry film lubricant Poytetraflouroethylene (PTFE) twice a year. The cleaner evaporates, leaving the PTFE to lubricate the ignition lock. They said to use this rather than graphite.
#36
Rennlist Member
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Old thread I know, but so happy to find it as my 996 has these symptoms and need to reference it for my repair...
Plus - who knows if others are struggling a bit with their cars after a winter hibernation??
vetfever
Plus - who knows if others are struggling a bit with their cars after a winter hibernation??
vetfever