Ignition key hard to turn when cold?
01-16-2011, 05:02 PM
#16
I am reviving this thread because I have the same issue. It feels as though whatever lube is in the lock cylinder has "frozen". Also, when I turn the car off, it takes 10 second or so for the mechanicals to "click inside", and for the idiot bell to turn off once I remove the key. This only happens when the car is cold. Were you able to lube the cylinder or did you have to replace the switch or the entire ignition lock mechanism?
Thanks
Stefan
Thanks
Stefan
01-16-2011, 05:18 PM
#17
I find it hard to go out in the cold. When I got the whole new igniton switch and colum it was stiff. I don't think the system was made to be an easy turn of the key.
11-21-2014, 12:33 PM
#19
Race Director
I'd use dry silicone rather than graphite, since graphite is electrically conductive. I don't think the odds of enough graphite making it into the electrical portion of the switch are very high, but it's still a conductor being introduced into an electrical component, which isn't a great idea.
Graphite is not a great conductor, so much of the electricity that goes into it gets converted to heat. I had a great time as a kid making lightbulbs with solid graphite filaments (narrow pencil lead), but they tended to flame out in the presence of oxygen...
Graphite is not a great conductor, so much of the electricity that goes into it gets converted to heat. I had a great time as a kid making lightbulbs with solid graphite filaments (narrow pencil lead), but they tended to flame out in the presence of oxygen...
11-21-2014, 12:40 PM
#20
Race Director
Is it possible that what you're actually fighting is the steering lock mechanism, which IS harder to work with when it's cold? While my 996 lives at 70 degrees most of the time, I have had it up in the mountains in below-freezing temps for extended periods, and I did not notice an issue with the locks. This was back before I replaced the electrical portion of the switch, so all of the parts were approx. 13 years old at the time...
11-24-2014, 12:59 PM
#21
Is it possible that what you're actually fighting is the steering lock mechanism, which IS harder to work with when it's cold? While my 996 lives at 70 degrees most of the time, I have had it up in the mountains in below-freezing temps for extended periods, and I did not notice an issue with the locks. This was back before I replaced the electrical portion of the switch, so all of the parts were approx. 13 years old at the time...
11-24-2014, 01:37 PM
#22
Race Director
If you have a jeweler's screwdriver, you could try temporarily removing the electrical part of the ignition switch (under the dash). If the difficulty persists, you know the issue is with the mechanical parts. If the key turns easily when the electrical portion of the switch is removed, you know you need only replace that part.
01-23-2018, 12:01 PM
#23
Same issue - went to move my car this morning at -16C and had to turn the key hard enough I was afraid it would bend or break. It eventually moved and started and once in the garage and warmed up there was no issue. My ignition switch is a few months old and works just fine when warm so I'm thinking it is either the steering wheel lock part of the ignition pistol or the key tumblers. Has anyone narrowed down this problem and what lube (graphite, etc.) to use?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
01-23-2018, 01:44 PM
#24
I had this on my 996. I tried lube. I tried the electrical connector. Neither worked. The dignity in lock was sticking and there is no way to live that. It is a sealed internal piece. Has to replace the whole lock mechanism. Symptoms were when cold hard to turn and then would not shut off the car right away when I turned the key off. Pelican had a write up I followed. Was straight forward.
01-23-2018, 08:55 PM
#25
I had this on my 996. I tried lube. I tried the electrical connector. Neither worked. The dignity in lock was sticking and there is no way to live that. It is a sealed internal piece. Has to replace the whole lock mechanism. Symptoms were when cold hard to turn and then would not shut off the car right away when I turned the key off. Pelican had a write up I followed. Was straight forward.
I noticed that after I take the key out of the ignition it takes a good 5-10 seconds until I can hear the spring loaded steering wheel lock portion kick out. Since that is purely mechanical I think I'll try to spray some lube in there: around where the ignition pistol meets the steering column. Worse case I can take the whole ignition assembly out as I've had it out before and replace parts.
Thanks
01-23-2018, 09:36 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
So to revisit this with a little more experience.
My 2003C2 ignition switch finally failed so I replaced it with the Audi part number. Everything worked correctly again.
My “new” 2004tt key started to stick in the lock. I put 3 in 1 oil onto the key and did the multiple insert wipe clean reapply method to free it up. That worked fine. Now the key slides in and out smoothly and the wheel lock snaps home. Before I had to gently tap the metal face of the lock with the key to get it to snap home.
Then I started to get “Key in ignition” warning after removing that now slippery key.
I know from dissecting the 03 lock that there is a pin in the center of the electrical part that the key pushes in to wake the car up.
I assumed that the pin got oil that attracted dirt making it stick.
So before replacing the ignition switch this time, I put one of the red plastic straws that come with penetrating oil on my MAF cleaner, pushed it into the switch against the pin and gave it a quick shot. For the last 6 months is working again.
I also keep a spare electric part with the tools to replace it in the frunk just in case.
My take way is the tumblers/steering wheel lock like lube. The plastic ignition switch not so much.
My 2003C2 ignition switch finally failed so I replaced it with the Audi part number. Everything worked correctly again.
My “new” 2004tt key started to stick in the lock. I put 3 in 1 oil onto the key and did the multiple insert wipe clean reapply method to free it up. That worked fine. Now the key slides in and out smoothly and the wheel lock snaps home. Before I had to gently tap the metal face of the lock with the key to get it to snap home.
Then I started to get “Key in ignition” warning after removing that now slippery key.
I know from dissecting the 03 lock that there is a pin in the center of the electrical part that the key pushes in to wake the car up.
I assumed that the pin got oil that attracted dirt making it stick.
So before replacing the ignition switch this time, I put one of the red plastic straws that come with penetrating oil on my MAF cleaner, pushed it into the switch against the pin and gave it a quick shot. For the last 6 months is working again.
I also keep a spare electric part with the tools to replace it in the frunk just in case.
My take way is the tumblers/steering wheel lock like lube. The plastic ignition switch not so much.
01-23-2018, 11:33 PM
#27
Not even sure what I meant to type with dignity. Anyway. All the lube in the world is not going to work. The click you hear after 5-10 seconds is the locking pin popping back out when you remove the key. It is located where the black circle is. I guess you could try to pull the thing and lube that piston, but since I had to remove it I just replaced it
just for clarification, the plastic piece that causes all the electrical issue you get in on the top right. On the top left is where the cylinder/tumbler goes where you put the key in. You have to transfer it when you replace the unit. Close up looks like this:
just for clarification, the plastic piece that causes all the electrical issue you get in on the top right. On the top left is where the cylinder/tumbler goes where you put the key in. You have to transfer it when you replace the unit. Close up looks like this:
01-24-2018, 09:30 AM
#28
Same issue - went to move my car this morning at -16C and had to turn the key hard enough I was afraid it would bend or break. It eventually moved and started and once in the garage and warmed up there was no issue. My ignition switch is a few months old and works just fine when warm so I'm thinking it is either the steering wheel lock part of the ignition pistol or the key tumblers. Has anyone narrowed down this problem and what lube (graphite, etc.) to use?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks