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Old 03-20-2009, 01:24 PM
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springgeyser
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Default CEL 1118

For those that got the CEL 1118.

What was the cause you found to resolve this CEL?
-The MAF is already cleaned.
-I am swapping out my secondary o2s out ot fix this. The Durametric states it is my the bank 2 secondary o2. but I figured I might as well change out both O2 when I am already under the car.

Thanks.
Old 03-20-2009, 02:24 PM
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Loren
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P1118 Oxygen Sensor Heating After TWC, Bank 2 – Below Limit
You either have a bad connection on that O2 sensor or the sensor heater has died.
If you have over 60,000 miles on the car then it is likely a worn out sensor.
Old 03-20-2009, 05:40 PM
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C4CRNA
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Mine would throw this occasionally and I'd just reset it.
Eventually I got a new sensor.
Now it's fine
Old 03-21-2009, 01:07 AM
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springgeyser
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Thanks for both replies. Resettting it worked at first.

>90k on the o2.
Old 05-01-2009, 02:48 AM
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springgeyser
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I swapped out new 2ndary O2 sensors and I cleaned the connectors, it is still throwing the same P1118 code. I then swapped the left and right side sensors and it still threw a code. The Bank 2 secondary o2 is physically located on the driver side correct?

I am smog ignorant, so if the CEL light does not come on (even though the codes are in the ECU) ...will it pass California OBDII smog check?

thanks
Old 05-01-2009, 07:08 AM
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C4CRNA
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My car has 30K on it. The sensor was changed by the dealer.Two years ago
It is still occasionally throwing this code.
I just erase it and it hasn't been an issue with the inspection.
Ithink if you erase the code you will be fine.
Old 05-01-2009, 11:34 AM
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At the last smog check, it failed smog after I erased the codes. The tech told me this is due to the computer monitor needig to reset itself after it the codes are reset. I drove the 996 to work today so I can smog the car later. No CEL light but the P1118 code is residing in the Motronic.

Fingers crossed it will pass smog.

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Old 05-01-2009, 02:53 PM
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htny
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I'm having a hard time remembering and I don't know which exhaust and intake etc. are on your car, but assuming all stock are there 2 or 4 total O2 sensors in the system (e.g. one in front of and one in each cat = total of 4 right?). Doesn't the secondary (in cat I assume is secondary) have a pre-heater of some sort to get the element up to temperature on cold start, or is that the one in front of the cat?

If there is a heater and only one side is bad, can you test continuity to the heating element on either side?

While it isn't a solve, I assume that if you erase the codes while warm and then drive the car for a while and stay running while you wait for smog, you should be good no?
Old 05-01-2009, 03:48 PM
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100% Stock. All OBDII O2 have heater elements built in. I swapped the left to right thinking the problem might have been that simple. It didn't resolve it.

I believe there was some output back to the ECU stating the heater is working even the car is warmed. I am doing exactly what you are stating and hopefully that will keep the CEL light from coming on although the code is still in the ECU.
Old 05-01-2009, 08:06 PM
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aben8057
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how did you erase the code?
Old 05-01-2009, 09:30 PM
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I have the Durametric software.
Old 05-04-2009, 05:06 PM
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C4CRNA
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My cheapo code reader has the ability to erase the code also.
Old 05-04-2009, 06:30 PM
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cdodkin
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CA rules are pretty straightforward

CEL = fail
no CEL = OK (as long as it's had enough time to cycle through all the tests since the last OBDII reset)

So if you use your reader to reset the CEL and clear codes - you must drive for some considerable time/distance to ensure that the system has cycled through all the tests.

If you have codes and no CEL - I believe you're good to go.
Old 05-17-2009, 10:26 PM
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C4CRNA
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So did you pass?
Old 05-17-2009, 11:19 PM
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2fas4u
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Lightbulb do a drive cycle

Originally Posted by cdodkin
CA rules are pretty straightforward

CEL = fail
no CEL = OK (as long as it's had enough time to cycle through all the tests since the last OBDII reset)

So if you use your reader to reset the CEL and clear codes - you must drive for some considerable time/distance to ensure that the system has cycled through all the tests.

If you have codes and no CEL - I believe you're good to go.
a drive cycle shouldn't take more than a few minutes, works everytime.


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