Car Won't Start ('02 C4 Cab)
#1
Car Won't Start ('02 C4 Cab)
After washing today (coincidence or related?) I moved the car (so at least it started after washing) and when I went back an hour later, it wouldn’t start. When I turn on the ignition, all the warning lights come on but I just hear 3 electrical sounding “hums” (short, long (2 sec) short), no starter cranking noises.
Battery seems OK as lights are fully workable and bright, and a battery booster had no effect.
Will call for tow/service in AM (car is still under CPO).
Any guesses? I’ve seen prior posts commenting on starter switch problems but since I’m hearing something (the “hums”) wouldn’t that indicate switch contacts are connecting?
Thanks,
Steve
Battery seems OK as lights are fully workable and bright, and a battery booster had no effect.
Will call for tow/service in AM (car is still under CPO).
Any guesses? I’ve seen prior posts commenting on starter switch problems but since I’m hearing something (the “hums”) wouldn’t that indicate switch contacts are connecting?
Thanks,
Steve
#6
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
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#9
#10
No Start Diagnosis: It was a Key / transponder/ immobilizer issue!
Had the car towed into Porsche. They claimed the DME was shorting out the underseat immobilizer relay, they replaced them for $ thousands (to be billed to Porsche under CPO thank God).
Then it happened again a week later in my garage!!!!
Was going to have it towed back in but after reading another thread where the guy switched keys and didn't move/re-program the in-key transponder properly causing the same symptoms (all light working but just a slight whirring sound upon key turn, then nothing), I tried my spare set of keys and the car turned over!!
So it appears the transponder insider the primary key went bad (??) and that caused the no start condition.
Now the question is what happened to the key and is the key fixable?
Then it happened again a week later in my garage!!!!
Was going to have it towed back in but after reading another thread where the guy switched keys and didn't move/re-program the in-key transponder properly causing the same symptoms (all light working but just a slight whirring sound upon key turn, then nothing), I tried my spare set of keys and the car turned over!!
So it appears the transponder insider the primary key went bad (??) and that caused the no start condition.
Now the question is what happened to the key and is the key fixable?
#11
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
Michael,
Try this. It may or may not work but it is worth 2 minutes of yor time to find out.
Lock the car.
Use the "bad" key to mechanically unlock the car by using the key in the door lock.
Keep the key in the door and press the unlock button on the fob.
Open the door and then try to start the car with the "bad" key.
Try this. It may or may not work but it is worth 2 minutes of yor time to find out.
Lock the car.
Use the "bad" key to mechanically unlock the car by using the key in the door lock.
Keep the key in the door and press the unlock button on the fob.
Open the door and then try to start the car with the "bad" key.
#12
I wonder if they do unnecessary swaps intentionally to just keep spare parts in someones toolbox, then have a swap meet at the end of the year.... these guys are so bad at troubleshooting sometimes...
Had the car towed into Porsche. They claimed the DME was shorting out the underseat immobilizer relay, they replaced them for $ thousands (to be billed to Porsche under CPO thank God).
Then it happened again a week later in my garage!!!!
Was going to have it towed back in but after reading another thread where the guy switched keys and didn't move/re-program the in-key transponder properly causing the same symptoms (all light working but just a slight whirring sound upon key turn, then nothing), I tried my spare set of keys and the car turned over!!
So it appears the transponder insider the primary key went bad (??) and that caused the no start condition.
Now the question is what happened to the key and is the key fixable?
Then it happened again a week later in my garage!!!!
Was going to have it towed back in but after reading another thread where the guy switched keys and didn't move/re-program the in-key transponder properly causing the same symptoms (all light working but just a slight whirring sound upon key turn, then nothing), I tried my spare set of keys and the car turned over!!
So it appears the transponder insider the primary key went bad (??) and that caused the no start condition.
Now the question is what happened to the key and is the key fixable?
#14
It was the Key Head!
The key was apparently intermittently bad. Sometimes it worked, usually didn’t, sometimes would allow a little cranking and then nothing. However, the alternate key worked every time. Another thread about problems associated with switching keys gave me the idea to dig out the spare and try it before I had the car towed in the second time.(Thanks Rennlist!)
(Note: all other key remote functions worked on the bad key and I tried replacing the battery before I did the switch but no effect, so must be a bad pod in the head). Had the key head replaced (at $160 + $30 for programming, and of course the dealer said it was not covered by the CPO. (True?)).
So, if your car doesn’t start (just a sight/short whirring sound, no starter cranking) but the battery seems good (all lights bright and good amps on the dash meter) TRY YOUR SPARE KEY!
(Note: all other key remote functions worked on the bad key and I tried replacing the battery before I did the switch but no effect, so must be a bad pod in the head). Had the key head replaced (at $160 + $30 for programming, and of course the dealer said it was not covered by the CPO. (True?)).
So, if your car doesn’t start (just a sight/short whirring sound, no starter cranking) but the battery seems good (all lights bright and good amps on the dash meter) TRY YOUR SPARE KEY!