Is it a DIY to replace the control arm? I've searched but did not find a specific DIY (1999 C4).

I had creaking from the L front suspension, found a small hole in the control arm ball joint boot and shot some grease in it, sound gone.

Control arm is about $330 or so,

Anyone try this as a DIY?

Thanks,

 

Should be a straight forward DIY. Check RENNtech.org

Just make sure you don't use a pickle fork to remove the ball end of the control arm.

 

I replaced both control arms earlier this year. Nothing really special in terms of DIY. Make sure you have the correct size tools, the ball joint seperator, and you should be all set. Feel free to post up if you have any questions.

 

BTW I bought my ball joint separator for my 944 from ZDMAK tools for a relatively good price.

 

I would really appreciate any specific advice or hints. There is the ball joint which I will seperate with the tool (not a pickle fork), then 2 other attach points that look like they are long bolts. Any special order, does the wheel carrier need to be supported, should I use all new bolts/nuts, how long will it take, do I really need an alignment if I can mark the bolt position and put it back the same way, anything special to do with the C4? Antthing else?
Thanks.

 

Yes, the other two attachment points are nut/bolt arrangements. Nothing really special about them. I'll take a look at the manual tonight for any special instructions, but I recall just breaking the two bolts free and leaving them loosely in place. Then I broke the ball joint free and removed the arm. I can't seem to recall if I supported the wheel carrier, but I believe I did. It will certainly make aligning things during reassembly much easier. You definitely need an alignment after changing the parts. Your caster and camber will be close, but your toe will likely be way off. That will destroy a pair of tires pretty quickly.

When you're removing the ball joint, be prepared for the pop when it releases. If you're not expecting it the noise will startle you.

 

no need to support the wheel carrier; it's clamped to the strut. once you remove the plastic plate under the nose, here is the order in which you should do the work:

1) remove ball joint nut and split ball joint
2) remove bolt for diagonal link (this is in the center of the control arm you're replacing)
3) remove control arm pivot bolt from subframe
4) pry lower control arm out of subframe

when you install, just reverse the order, but don't tighten the subframe bolt until you're done with everything else. if the ball joint kingpin spins when you try to tighten the nut, just pound it up into the steering knuckle with a hammer and it will stop turning (it's tapered).

FYI, you can get rebuilt control arms from Vertex Auto for like $175.

 

PS--Make sure the arm is in it's normal, loaded position when you tighten the connection to the subframe. That requires that you either tighten it when it's when the car is on the ground or use a jack to raise the carrier into position. There are alignment marks that need to match when you tighten things down.