Disassembly, BBS/Sport Design Wheel
07-20-2008, 10:50 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Disassembly, BBS/Sport Design Wheel
I want to remove the center portion of the wheel and would like to know if anyone has disassembled this type of wheel? If so, any problems with the reassembly? What were the torque settings for the bolts and was there a sequence in replacing and tightening the bolts?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
07-20-2008, 01:16 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
I swear this was posted some time ago here as somebody else tried but I couldn't find the thread. I know there is an order of the bolts to be tightened and a specific torque as well there might be a sealant and/or seal that needs to be addressed. Have you tried to call BBS directly? IIRC they are at Road ATL down in GA.
07-21-2008, 12:26 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Refinishing Sport Design Wheels
I am doing mine right now. Mine had been split before and the PO used a lot of red locktite. The bolts were really hard to get off and a coupe of the threads stripped from the torque. I was able to extract them and get it all out of the threads without hurting anything. I bought a set of bolts from a guy on Swedespeed who bought them in quantity from germany. If you break any let me know and I will mail you a couple. The bolts are titanium and can be reused if they were not over torqued. The wheels are two piece and don't need any special torque sequence or any sealing. Just make sure you keep the centers matched to the rim it goes with. I stamped mine when I took them apart. The correct torque is 24#. This is the BBS recommended torque. Good luck.
07-21-2008, 12:31 PM
#5
where did you get the tool to remove the bolts? TIA
I am doing mine right now. Mine had been split before and the PO used a lot of red locktite. The bolts were really hard to get off and a coupe of the threads stripped from the torque. I was able to extract them and get it all out of the threads without hurting anything. I bought a set of bolts from a guy on Swedespeed who bought them in quantity from germany. If you break any let me know and I will mail you a couple. The bolts are titanium and can be reused if they were not over torqued. The wheels are two piece and don't need any special torque sequence or any sealing. Just make sure you keep the centers matched to the rim it goes with. I stamped mine when I took them apart. The correct torque is 24#. This is the BBS recommended torque. Good luck.
07-22-2008, 11:32 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
I did my rear Sport Design II's last fall.
When I bought the car, the rim lip had been refinished with silver wheel paint. The correct finish is clearcoat over natural aluminum for the lip.
The tool that I used is an 8mm triple-square. I bought it a PepBoys in a set of 4 different sizes of inserts for about $20. You can also buy individual sockets from tool manufacturers such as Matco or SnapOn for about $25 each.
I disassembled the wheels, marking each one so that the center section stayed with the outer rim portion. I masked the wheel with painter's tape and used Tal-Strip II stripper manufactured by Mar-Hyde (the same folks who make Bondo) to remove the clearcoat and silver paint from the rim lip. Then I roughed the surface with steel wool followed by progressive sanding with wet sandpaper until I got to 1500 grit. I followed the 1500 grit with polishing compound to get a polished surface. After the sanding and polishing was complete, I removed the masking tape and thoroughly washed the wheel, making sure that the wheel was completely dry. I then remasked the wheel to begin the prep for paint. After masking, I prepped the surface with acetone and sprayed four coats of DupliColor Clear Wheel Finish. After the clear dried for about 2-3 hours, I used a light polish to smooth out the paint surface (it is important to wait for at least 2 hours - ask me how I know).
For reassembly, I used the 145 inch pound torque on the bolts. I tightened them in sequence. I first torqued each one to 75 inch-pounds in a criss-cross pattern. I followed up with a final torque to 145 inch pounds, again in a criss-cross pattern. I reused my bolts and did not have any trouble. There is no need to use loctite or any other type of sealant on these 2-piece wheels.
When I bought the car, the rim lip had been refinished with silver wheel paint. The correct finish is clearcoat over natural aluminum for the lip.
The tool that I used is an 8mm triple-square. I bought it a PepBoys in a set of 4 different sizes of inserts for about $20. You can also buy individual sockets from tool manufacturers such as Matco or SnapOn for about $25 each.
I disassembled the wheels, marking each one so that the center section stayed with the outer rim portion. I masked the wheel with painter's tape and used Tal-Strip II stripper manufactured by Mar-Hyde (the same folks who make Bondo) to remove the clearcoat and silver paint from the rim lip. Then I roughed the surface with steel wool followed by progressive sanding with wet sandpaper until I got to 1500 grit. I followed the 1500 grit with polishing compound to get a polished surface. After the sanding and polishing was complete, I removed the masking tape and thoroughly washed the wheel, making sure that the wheel was completely dry. I then remasked the wheel to begin the prep for paint. After masking, I prepped the surface with acetone and sprayed four coats of DupliColor Clear Wheel Finish. After the clear dried for about 2-3 hours, I used a light polish to smooth out the paint surface (it is important to wait for at least 2 hours - ask me how I know).
For reassembly, I used the 145 inch pound torque on the bolts. I tightened them in sequence. I first torqued each one to 75 inch-pounds in a criss-cross pattern. I followed up with a final torque to 145 inch pounds, again in a criss-cross pattern. I reused my bolts and did not have any trouble. There is no need to use loctite or any other type of sealant on these 2-piece wheels.
