Miller_arch

I am refinishing my Sport Classic II wheels that I bought from a Rennlister. I decided to paint the outer lip OEM Silver and the spokes gunmetal "charcoal". The outer lips had a few dings and paint flakes after 10 years on the open road. These have been repaired with a little bondo and filler/sanding primer. The spokes are in good shape with only a few areas needing a similar repair.

Thinking ahead putting the two pieces back together. Not sure if its locktite or just years of gunk but the screws came out fine but tight the whole way out. The screws are in fine shape, and the treads in the aluminum wheel look fine too. Both screws and threads in the aluminum have a little junk on them.

Anyone have any experience with the process of putting multi-piece wheels back to together? And I know common wisdom is don’t take them apart but I really can’t see what the big deal is. But I have had a couple of bad experiences putting screws into aluminum threads...

redridge

looks great! Where did you get the tool for the bolts? What torque do you use to tighten them?

Miller_arch

The tool is a 12 point 8MM bit that I got at a automotive store. I have read 25 ft/lbs. The wheels are not back together just yet...taking them apart was easy.

salayc

I have had to re tap holes when inserting aluminum.

Miller_arch

yes, i think that to be good advice.

Glenn

125lb torque - not 25! I just put a coat of paint on the inside too. Gunmetal and am going to try and polish the lip before laying down a coat of clear. Tap out sounds like good advice.

springgeyser

125# sounds way too high for those little bolts. The bolts will be over stretched. CCW website has 32#.

My large axle nut and crank bolt are ~130# spec'd.

ArneeA

You have to put silicone sealant between the two pieces. I had my Work Brombachers brushed (centers) and they put silicone sealant between the pieces to ensure proper seal and no air leaks. -- at least that's what they told me.

Carrera Mike

Whoah. That torque is way too high!

I did this on my sports designs. They are made by BBS for porsche, which is I think the same as yours.

Cross torque them 25% at a time of the final torque which is 145 INCH lbs(12.083ftlbs). Use Thread lock red.

I got the torque value from BBS. Dont ask me who my source is, but its one of the engineers.

Here's the thread

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/245990-sports-design-wheel-weights-updated-with-pictures.html

Miller_arch

Thanks for your replies. I think I am done painting. I got a few drips that I must live with but overall I am very happy. Wait, I am not done painting I got some center caps to do…oh well.

I am sure when I took the wheels apart it had no silicone between the two pieces. I am sure you were told to seal the two pieces but I don’t see it.

I used a creative masking technique to keep paint out of the recesses for the screws and lug nuts. But I did get some paint on the mating services (thats a small bug in the second pic). I figure I can grind that off if the fit is too tight.

I noticed on the clear coat can that if you don’t recoat within one hour you are to wait for 7 days for the coating to cure. So I think I am done with the project until next weekend just to be safe.

skiracer

They look great!

Miller_arch

Clear coat on dark colors is a little bit tricky. I will do some research on maybe sanding the clear coat after if cures a little bit...

MagnusB

How did you go about getting the old coating off?
Mine is peeling badly.

6ocyclehum

Make sure and post some finished pics when they are on your car! All those angles are quite fun, huh?!? I was not bold enough to take mine apart when I painted! Make sure you are "in the know" when it comes to reassembly. Those little screws will be taking some heavy stress! I think read somewhere that the bolts are not to be reused, but I'm not 100% sure on that. A good wheel rebuilding shop should know. I would guess a thread locker/sealant might be used also.
The clear should wetsand/buff fine, but if you are using enamel I would wait 2-3 months. Enamel takes a very long time to "fully" harden (as do most finishes). When wetsanding, fully cured it will be easier to work with and turn out better.
Looking good!

salayc

Typically clear coats are finish sanded 2000 grit and then buffed. Because of the level of detail with wheels, esp. these, they are almost impossible to buff. A better approach is to sand 1000 or 1500 between coats of clear and then a final full wet coat of clear as the finish. 3 coats of clear is probably about right.