New Brakes
#1
New Brakes
I have gotten conflicting answers. Anyone know the parts list for a complete 4 wheel brake overhaul on a 2001 C2. How many dampners and repair kits. Is it a good idea to replace rotors no matter what. Loren has a DIY on renntech with a parts list but sunset said that I needed 8 dampners per caliper. Very confused.
#2
I changed out my front pads recently. I think the confusion is stemming from the fact Loren's DIY was written 3 years ago and Porsche has since changed the way it packages some of the parts and the part #.
The pad repair kits (bolts, clips, cotter pins) now come in a single kit for both left and right sides of the car, so you only need 1 kit for the front and 1 kit for the rear.
I can't remember how the front dampers were packaged but you need 2 dampers for each side of the car. 4 dampers altogether for both left and right fronts. Note that unlike the rears, each front damper consists of an adhesive backed card with 2 different sized metal pucks attached to it.
Each rear damper "set" comes with 4 dampers, 2 for each side of the car. So for 1 rear caliper you need 2 x 28 mm and 2 x 30 mm. 8 dampers altogether for both left and right rears (1 set of 28 mm and 1 set of 30 mm).
I bought from Sunset so if you just tell them what you want to do, they will supply the correct number of parts.
Hope this helps.
The pad repair kits (bolts, clips, cotter pins) now come in a single kit for both left and right sides of the car, so you only need 1 kit for the front and 1 kit for the rear.
I can't remember how the front dampers were packaged but you need 2 dampers for each side of the car. 4 dampers altogether for both left and right fronts. Note that unlike the rears, each front damper consists of an adhesive backed card with 2 different sized metal pucks attached to it.
Each rear damper "set" comes with 4 dampers, 2 for each side of the car. So for 1 rear caliper you need 2 x 28 mm and 2 x 30 mm. 8 dampers altogether for both left and right rears (1 set of 28 mm and 1 set of 30 mm).
I bought from Sunset so if you just tell them what you want to do, they will supply the correct number of parts.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by smackboy1; 07-09-2008 at 01:15 PM.
#5
Dell,
Can you just replace rotors only when they have reached their tolerance or cracked and keep the pads? I know that people will swap out pads for track duty.
Do the procedure differ for bedding in the pads/rotors in this instance?
TIA
Can you just replace rotors only when they have reached their tolerance or cracked and keep the pads? I know that people will swap out pads for track duty.
Do the procedure differ for bedding in the pads/rotors in this instance?
TIA
#6
Chao, absolutely. Actually that is the preferred method for break-in. Of course there are differing opinions on it but most in the industry I have talked to suggest not doing new pads and rotors at the same time but rather replace rotors with used pads or new pads with used rotors. With that said, I don't think there is a significant difference from doing both new at the same time.
The procedure for bedding in the pads is no different. Anytime you put in a new set of rotors or a new set of pads you NEED to bed them in to get proper material transfer (and if different pad compounds...material removal then transfer). That is of course unless you use PFC pads! They require NO bedding-in.
The procedure for bedding in the pads is no different. Anytime you put in a new set of rotors or a new set of pads you NEED to bed them in to get proper material transfer (and if different pad compounds...material removal then transfer). That is of course unless you use PFC pads! They require NO bedding-in.
#7
+1 on not replacing rotors.
I don't know where this idea of replacing rotors every time you replace pads got started. Only replace the rotors if they are beyond the service limit as defined by thickness or if the cracks are too long, extend to the edge of the rotor, etc.
I don't know where this idea of replacing rotors every time you replace pads got started. Only replace the rotors if they are beyond the service limit as defined by thickness or if the cracks are too long, extend to the edge of the rotor, etc.
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#9
#10
That's a very cynical attitude, although probably accurate.
There is a tech article on the StopTech website about the myth of warped rotors. According to the StopTech folks, rotors almost never warp, and what is preceived as a warped rotor (ie brake pedal pulsing) is actually caused by uneven deposition of brake pad material.
Seems to make sense to me.
There is a tech article on the StopTech website about the myth of warped rotors. According to the StopTech folks, rotors almost never warp, and what is preceived as a warped rotor (ie brake pedal pulsing) is actually caused by uneven deposition of brake pad material.
Seems to make sense to me.
#11
If it's already to thin for that, then it's time for a swap out.
#12
Thanks for the advice. I am weighing if resurfacing cost = cost of new rotors + my time.
#13
Can't believe how cheap the rotors were for the wife's 986 last time around - they have really dropped in price (Performance Products) - so re-facing was not economic.