I stand corrected, this is the first that I have read of the new part being measurably better than the old.

 

I Just completed the replacement of the ignition switch/lock. It took me about 4 hours. I happened to drop the 10 mm bolt into the support channel under the steering column(had to fish it out with a magnet. I had the newer lock assembly but one of the cast aluminum pieces broke inside the steering locking mechanism. I would suggest that you reinstall the 10 mm bolt. I don't feel that the aluminum pin is sufficient to hold the lock in place if there was someone pulling on the steering wheel while it is in the lock position. Try wrapping a piece of electrical tape on your finger inverted with the sticky side out. Place the nut on the tape and finger tighten as much as possible. The nut has a serrated washer built in. Try pushing the nut against the steering column and tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You will eventually be able to finally tighten only from the top with the ratchet. Good luck.
By the way I have the newer design and also had problems with my air conditioner blower not working. I will say that the ignition does turn much easier.

Aloha.

 

How do I find out the part numbers for that "complete" DIY? I did find that DIY last week (in fact I've replied to it too...) but I don't know what part numbers to order before I go tinkering around the car ... plus photos would be great. Basically I'm searching for a more friendly DIY but can't find one.

Good news: I'm back home after a week, the car is still here, hood still unlatched. So I can charge the battery. After all this is sorted out, I intend to clean up my first post and do a write up for future readers. Till then, data collection ....

 

For the full ignition switch+lock replacement, do I need this part "996-347-017-07-M100"? Its at http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ELswch_pg1.htm -> scroll to ignition switch -> 4th part ?

Is there an OEM part available?

 

Factory part only - PN 996.347.017.07
Fits Boxster 97 - 04, 996 98 - 05, GT3 03 - 05

 

I know this is an old post, but I have an old car ('03 C4S).
I had the same exact symptoms: key won't come out, additional effort has been required for a while, issues with A/C, wipers, headlights not working.
Although I did not have those clicks from the rear that the OP Sids911 had.
And, I did have one click coming from the key area on the last start before the key became stuck in the ignition. I assume something snapped.


Laura and PTEC both strongly advocate getting a whole new assembly 996.347.017.07. But I saw it was almost $300 and more complicated to put in than the switch.


My switch did not shift as Laura was suggesting. It was fully seated in the correct position. If my A/C didn't work, all I needed to do was rotate my key slightly counter clockwise and everything would start working again. Since the switch has so much resistance, it would not spring back to the correct position after engaging the starter motor.


I fixed mine last night with the cheap solution (4A0-905-849-B). It was a fraction of the cost of the whole assembly and easy to put in. I'll take my chances and hopefully you won't hear back from me for another 79k miles..... actually I've only owned it for 21k miles, so the switch had something between 21k and 79k miles at failure for sure.


Thank you so much to all the posters. You all really make it much easier to own and enjoy these cars.
THANKS !

 

We won't hear back from you - I did the same 2-3 years ago; changing "just the tip" of the ignition resolved the same symptoms you listed.

 

So good to know Mr. Schnell !!!
Thanks

 

You bet. Of course, there's a 90% chance I'm wrong (based on extant data), so...keep us posted.

 

Great, now you tell me.
I really don't have a lot to loose.

 

I am now at the last "red" screw , the lower one, and at a standstill. I have found 5 little flat headed screwdrivers and none seem to be the one for the job.

I quit before I got totally bent like a pretzel working upside down. Maybe going through the air vent might be the ticket instead of upside down.

Any pointers?

 

I had a lot of trouble with that screw too.
Did you pull the ducting out to give more access from the bottom?
Even with that out I was "bent up like a pretzel" !!
Next time I would explore the idea of taking the side cover of the dash off and the air vent you are talking about.
If you can't succeed from the bottom, I don't know what else you could do except go from the air vent side.
The good news is that mine still works ...... less than two months after replacement.

 

I replaced mine by removing the ventilation duct from the bottom, but not the ventilation register in the dash near the left-side "A" pillar. I probably spent a half-hour replacing the electrical switch components, until I found this screwdriver set from Harbor Freight tools - http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piec...set-93916.html.

It costs all of $8, and the flexible shaft is a Godsend. It's flexible enough to bend around the circumference of the lock cylinder, so you can hold the bit in place with one hand, and turn the bit with the other hand. With this screwdriver set, I bet I could change one now in five minutes or so. Not that I want to, but if that day comes, I'm ready.

The job is a bit of a "muscle memory" exercise, and there are "early" switches (usually white in color) and "late" switches (usually black in color). Naturally, I ordered the wrong one the first time, and got a pair of the black ones, in case the first one I tried to install was bad.

 

I used a small socket and a flat head screw driver blade so I could get that little bit of extra purchase on the screw. I too removed the lower vent. You can take out the drivers side air vent for better view if you are super stuck.