HELP: Key stuck in ignition switch - battery NOT dead
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
HELP: Key stuck in ignition switch - battery NOT dead
Hi folks,
My key is stuck in the ignition switch. Several symptoms (BOLD) that may offer some insight, so let me quickly narrate the last 30 minutes.
I just headed out for lunch and when I turned on the car, I noticed an additional effort required to turn the key clockwise in the switch. Nothing major I though, its the first time I felt this.
Drive along, I notice that the AC blower isn't working. I thought I may have blown a fuse. It was working perfectly just before this.
Arrive at my destination in 15 minutes, I notice I can't get the key out of the ignition switch!! Afraid to leave the car with the key in a random parking lot, I decided to drive back home. The car started all right, but just after starting, I heard a few extra periodic "clicks" from the rear. As soon as I put the car in reverse gear, the clicks immediately stopped. The drive back home was without additional surprises. (Whew!)
So now I have a few questions ....
1. It looks like I've got a bad ignition switch, right? Its my (blind) hunch - I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable can confirm this. Any DIYs on how to replace it?
2. I've leaving tomorrow for a week and have a covered parking spot (no garage). I'd like to get the car keys out so I'm not worried during my vacation about theft. How can I do this (its a 1999 996 C2)?
3. The AC blower and the extra clicking sounds ... do you'll think its due to the ignition switch issues?
I'd REALLY appreciate some help guys ... really don't want to leave the car for a week with the key inside in working state. I'm going to get a car cover to avoid eyes, but ... what the hell .... HELP !!
My key is stuck in the ignition switch. Several symptoms (BOLD) that may offer some insight, so let me quickly narrate the last 30 minutes.
I just headed out for lunch and when I turned on the car, I noticed an additional effort required to turn the key clockwise in the switch. Nothing major I though, its the first time I felt this.
Drive along, I notice that the AC blower isn't working. I thought I may have blown a fuse. It was working perfectly just before this.
Arrive at my destination in 15 minutes, I notice I can't get the key out of the ignition switch!! Afraid to leave the car with the key in a random parking lot, I decided to drive back home. The car started all right, but just after starting, I heard a few extra periodic "clicks" from the rear. As soon as I put the car in reverse gear, the clicks immediately stopped. The drive back home was without additional surprises. (Whew!)
So now I have a few questions ....
1. It looks like I've got a bad ignition switch, right? Its my (blind) hunch - I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable can confirm this. Any DIYs on how to replace it?
2. I've leaving tomorrow for a week and have a covered parking spot (no garage). I'd like to get the car keys out so I'm not worried during my vacation about theft. How can I do this (its a 1999 996 C2)?
3. The AC blower and the extra clicking sounds ... do you'll think its due to the ignition switch issues?
I'd REALLY appreciate some help guys ... really don't want to leave the car for a week with the key inside in working state. I'm going to get a car cover to avoid eyes, but ... what the hell .... HELP !!
#2
Rennlist Member
Dumb question. Did you jiggle the steering wheel while trying to remove the key? Mine will not come out if I turned the wheel sharply before I turned the car off. I have to really jiggle the steering wheel hard to get it to come out.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I did juggle it ... I suspect a broken switch. I did some reading and it seems like, at this point, we can either buy the switch only part ($30 Audi part # 4A0 905 849 B) or the switch+steering lock. ($$$, part #??).
Does anyone know which way is better/reliable? Also, how can I find out the latest compatible part? Some say 4A0905849-B and some say 4A0905849 ... same??
I found two good DIY instructions: http://www.gagme.com/greg/996/ignition.php and http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/P...tionswitch.htm
Does anyone know which way is better/reliable? Also, how can I find out the latest compatible part? Some say 4A0905849-B and some say 4A0905849 ... same??
I found two good DIY instructions: http://www.gagme.com/greg/996/ignition.php and http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/P...tionswitch.htm
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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Same Exact Situation
I had the same exact situation. I figured it couldn't just be that because of the AC issue but it was. Had it replaced and have had no issues at all. My Porsche guy told me it is very common. Hope that helps.
#6
99% it is the ignition switch housing 996.347.017.07. Very common and it will take care of the a/c problem also. Work with the key back and forth and pull slightly, you need to try and make the cylinder pop and let the key out. Don't pull the key too hard or it will damage the lock cylinder (has internal plastic pieces) and that part is an additional item that you would have to replace. Even if the key is out the ignition it may still have some of the options on and very likely your battery will be dead when you return. Disconnecting your battery will not work because then you cannot lock the car ans I assume you would want to in the space.
#7
Rennlist
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It is te electric ignition switch behind the ignition lock, DO NOT replace the entire ignition lock unit. I don't believe you can buy just the ignition switch from the Porsche dealer, they would suggest you to replace the entire lock and switch unit.
the switch is an Audi part. Do a search on "Audi ignition switch" you should be able to find the part number adn replacement instruction. And yes it would cause the A/C not to function properly.
the switch is an Audi part. Do a search on "Audi ignition switch" you should be able to find the part number adn replacement instruction. And yes it would cause the A/C not to function properly.
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Good to know the AC and this could be related! I'm going to get the key out this evening ... hoping the battery doesn't die out in a week! (Its such a pain to open the car on the '99 version if your battery dies - SUCH a pain ... aagh)
Anyway, I've found a few DIY on replacing the old switch with a revised (but still flaky) switch. So far so good ...
It also seems that the "best" switch to use is a redesigned switch that also needs a newer wheel lock for compatibility. I can't find a good DIY of replacing the switch+wheel lock (to use the newer more reliable switch part). Does anyone have a good DIY for that? I found http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...howtopic=16077 but it doesn't have pics, part numbers or cost ...
I'd rather fix this for good than be in this messy situation again. And ####, I've got to pack for travel, get gifts, wrap up work etc ... freaking ignition switch had to die at the worst time ...
Anyway, I've found a few DIY on replacing the old switch with a revised (but still flaky) switch. So far so good ...
It also seems that the "best" switch to use is a redesigned switch that also needs a newer wheel lock for compatibility. I can't find a good DIY of replacing the switch+wheel lock (to use the newer more reliable switch part). Does anyone have a good DIY for that? I found http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...howtopic=16077 but it doesn't have pics, part numbers or cost ...
I'd rather fix this for good than be in this messy situation again. And ####, I've got to pack for travel, get gifts, wrap up work etc ... freaking ignition switch had to die at the worst time ...
#9
If you search through one of the topics on the subject on renntech Loren posts instructions with diagrams. Very simple to do although screws are tricky. Get the vw part as it is cheaper than the audi part. Can be had for 20-30 bucks on ebay.
edit: don't get the whole new mechanism. just get the older switch to fit your ignition. afaik the new switch hasn't proven to be anymore reliable. it will cost you 100 bucks more and is much more of a pain to install.
edit: don't get the whole new mechanism. just get the older switch to fit your ignition. afaik the new switch hasn't proven to be anymore reliable. it will cost you 100 bucks more and is much more of a pain to install.
#10
Well let me go against the grain here and say get the whole new ignition lock assembly with the new ignition switch. It is by far and away more reliable than the older switch. The updated part has been around since mid 03 if I remember correctly and since then I can't remember replacing a single one of the new style.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well let me go against the grain here and say get the whole new ignition lock assembly with the new ignition switch. It is by far and away more reliable than the older switch. The updated part has been around since mid 03 if I remember correctly and since then I can't remember replacing a single one of the new style.
#12
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...howtopic=16077
Doesnt seem so difficult. I had the same issue with mine. I plan on replacing the entire thing when I get a chance.
#13
Tradeoff ? by doing the job correctly or taking a cheap temporary fix? You can replace the electrical portion and have the part fail again in a month or it may last 6 months or a few days. The housing has been superceded to a new part that holds the electrical and mechanical components more securely than the old part. Right now your old electrical plastic part has shifted and not making the necessary connections to control a/c, headlights, radio, wipers... The front tumbler area that is also surrounded in plastic has shifted and not releasing the key, continued use in a faulty ignition housing can cause further damage and replacement of that part will be necessary. There is TSB bulletin that has been out on this repair for years. In our shop, over 50% of all 986 and 996 from 97 thru 03 have had this problem. The first repair Porsche came up with was the switch, many came back for further repair. My suggestion, do the job right the first time.
But what do I know, just been in the Porsche business for over 30 years.
But what do I know, just been in the Porsche business for over 30 years.
#14
Cap'n Insane the Engorged
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Tradeoff ? by doing the job correctly or taking a cheap temporary fix? You can replace the electrical portion and have the part fail again in a month or it may last 6 months or a few days. The housing has been superceded to a new part that holds the electrical and mechanical components more securely than the old part. Right now your old electrical plastic part has shifted and not making the necessary connections to control a/c, headlights, radio, wipers... The front tumbler area that is also surrounded in plastic has shifted and not releasing the key, continued use in a faulty ignition housing can cause further damage and replacement of that part will be necessary. There is TSB bulletin that has been out on this repair for years. In our shop, over 50% of all 986 and 996 from 97 thru 03 have had this problem. The first repair Porsche came up with was the switch, many came back for further repair. My suggestion, do the job right the first time.
But what do I know, just been in the Porsche business for over 30 years.
But what do I know, just been in the Porsche business for over 30 years.
I did the Audi part and it worked for a couple months, but then I just ended up doing the whole thing.
#15